How do **YOU** fit concealed hinged inset doors?

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Forum topic by noone posted 06-10-2012 12:02 AM 1763 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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559 posts in 1689 days

06-10-2012 12:02 AM

I have been practicing fitting doors on some scrap using a router and a flush trim bit with a top and bottom bearing. I am finding that it can gouge your workpiece pretty easily if you’re not careful.

Does anyone else use this technique?

How do you fit your inset doors?

I’m starting to think that my new crosscut sled may be perfect for this job.

12 replies so far

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312 posts in 2218 days

#1 posted 06-10-2012 03:06 AM

I just make the doors 1/16th smaller in each direction if I have an area that is tight I use a block plane to fit it.

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

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115166 posts in 2993 days

#2 posted 06-10-2012 03:15 AM

The first thing to do is to check your openings for square , then I try and make them fit perfectly (no gap) and then trim to the gap you want after that, AKA sneak up on it approach.

-- Custom furniture

View Loren's profile


8155 posts in 3064 days

#3 posted 06-10-2012 05:29 AM

Do you just want them to fit or do you want a perfect
shadow line?

View Greg's profile


312 posts in 2290 days

#4 posted 06-10-2012 05:40 AM

I use a table saw to rough-size of the door, then, Like a1Jim, sneak up with it with a block plane.

-- You don't have a custom made heirloom fly fishing Net?

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559 posts in 1689 days

#5 posted 06-10-2012 11:40 AM

I don’t own a block plane. I was really hoping to be able to use just my crosscut sled. It does have a 26” wide capacity, so I will be able to trim my doors both vertically and horizontally.

Are there any decent block planes at Home Depot? Will that ‘Buck Bros’ plane get me through these 4 doors?

What brand/type of block planes do you all own?

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2385 days

#6 posted 06-10-2012 12:24 PM

I always used to leave horns on my doors ( an inch or two of stile longer than the door height ) and then trim them down on the table saw, put now I make everything to size and trim down with the track saw, then just take off the blade marks with a block plane.

As for fitting, I normally use a spacer (pieces of iron on veneer edging) to gauge the fit. The spacer depends on the clearance for the hinge. If you are using Blum type inset hinges, the gap needs to be at least 2mm for inset hinges (and then there needs to be a slight bevel on the door face edge).

Start with pieces of iron on edging to give you the right clearance – spaced out in the corner of the door opening, rest the door on that and get the hinge side fitting perfectly to the hinge side of the carcase, then move it over (insert another spacer on at hinge side) then do the the other edge, then trim the top leaving the right space.

The router hasn’t been used to trim doors down for a long time.

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559 posts in 1689 days

#7 posted 06-10-2012 02:48 PM

I was planning on using laminate countertop samples as spacers.

I don’t own an edge sander or block plane (I read that the Buck Brosnplane was total crap so I’ll pass), so I’m hoping just the table saw with a good blade works out.

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2785 posts in 1627 days

#8 posted 06-10-2012 04:16 PM

Noone, I can understand not having an edge sander but to not have a block plane you are really short changing yourself on the basic tools. Buck Brothers planes are not the elite of woodworking tools, but they do the job. I have a couple of Buck Bros block planes that I use all the time. But that said…

I work on older homes so run into not-quite-square openings all the time. To measure, I use 4 slats of scrapwood and fit them into the 4 sides of the opening, clamp them at the four corners, then shoot some brads or screws to keep them from moving. This makes for an accurate template of the door opening. Then when cutting, I just cut it 1/16” smaller.

-- The first cordless tool was a stick. The first power tool was a rock.

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8155 posts in 3064 days

#9 posted 06-10-2012 04:28 PM

I would recommend a block plane with an adjustable mouth. I
had a Buck at one time and it lacked this feature.

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559 posts in 1689 days

#10 posted 06-10-2012 04:42 PM

Which size Buck Bros? 6 1/2”

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7114 posts in 1993 days

#11 posted 06-10-2012 04:49 PM

Here’s a stanley block plane for ya. Amazon, ebay, may be in the big box stores as well.

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559 posts in 1689 days

#12 posted 06-10-2012 11:44 PM

Well, I conquered fitting those doors. I had been dreading this day for weeks. It wasn’t so bad, it just took a lot of time and a lot of analness to get them to fit perfect. 3/32” reveal. I was able to fit them perfectly using just my table saw and crosscut sled which was wide enough to fit the long length of the door as well. For me, this is a woodworking pinnacle and I have to say i’m quite proud of myself! I bought that Buck Bros. plane from home depot, a 7” plane, but when I opened it, it said “please hone before using”. Since I didn’t have a sharpening stone and had never used a block plane before I just put it back in its box and it will be going back. I’m sure glad I didn’t need it. The doors turned out perfectly. Well, the doors in the second picture the top gap is slightly, maybe 1/32 too wide. I know I will be able to even that up once I get the hinges installed.

I was planning on boring the cup hinge holes and mounting the hinges after painting (zinser BIN primer + acrylic enamel waterborne). Is this a good idea?

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