Finishing kitchen drawers question

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 06-09-2012 07:43 PM 1164 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1100 posts in 2281 days

06-09-2012 07:43 PM

Getting close to being done with the kitchen drawers. The last 6 drawers are in the shop. In pieces. I’ve lacquered the insides BUT I’ve run out of lacquer. I’m only talking about the drawer bottom and the back. Using Tandembox system, I don’t have to make sides. On the first 6 drawers, I actually lacquered both sides of each panel. Shold I just stop until I can go get more lacquer? Or…. would you just poly the underside of the bottom and the back side of the back and be done with it? I’ve got plenty of poly. I’ll probably go on Monday and get more lacquer for doing the inside of the drawer fronts (outside will be painted to match the cabinets), but I need to get these drawer parts out of the shop before I start cutting the fronts.

The fronts are going to be Baltic Birch slabs, 3/4 inch thick. Wife wants plain slabs on the working side of the kitchen. Easier to clean.

So what would YOU do? This is for me, obviously… not a customer. Just wait ‘till you got more lacquer? Or poly ‘em and move on?

3 replies so far

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

3999 posts in 2229 days

#1 posted 06-09-2012 09:30 PM

Hate it when the finish (or the concrete) runs short.
What would I do? Assuming you’ve been using Deft right out of the can, you have more build in one brush than two spray coats. So, 320 it, wipe it clean and call it good for now. Worst case scenario, take apart and add more later.
BTW, I would also lacquer under the paint, as I did on my bathroom cabinets (see portfolio). Deft builds and fills so quickly, that getting a baby skin smooth base for the paint is easy. Then two coats of Pratt and Lambert’s best oil base enamel. Check for sure, but it used to be that P&L was the only oil base paint you could thin with lacquer thinner or acetone. EPA has forced many finishes off the market. You should still be able to thin with acetone (lightly) and get both chemical and mechanical bond with the lacquer base.

I’m not a fan of ooly except for high wear water exposure. It is not a serviceable finish because top coats tend not to adhere well.

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL One should always prefer the probable impossible to the improbable possible.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3063 days

#2 posted 06-09-2012 10:02 PM

The main reason why I use prefinished baltic birch for drawer boxes. Costs more for the ply, but not having to deal with a finish more than makes up for it.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2281 days

#3 posted 06-09-2012 10:28 PM

Couldn’t find prefinished Baltic Birch locally in 5/8 thickness. I needed 5/8 for the Tandembox drawer system. I’m about to head out to Lowes for more Deft. :) I can’t do any cutting operations until these pieces are done and out of there. (small shop)

“smooth base for paint” not actually what we’re going for with these. We’re using a really thick primer, sanding it lightly, brushing first coat of color, sanding lightly, brushing second coat of color. For the door panels, the color coats get put on in opposite direction and no sanding in between. It’s creating a very faint cross-hatch. Almost like painted linen on the panels and we want to see brush strokes. It’s a “cottage kitchen” (not to be confused with a country kitchen…. or so my wife tells me).

Anyways…. off to get more lacquer. The guy next door sprays cars. He had a spare mask for me to borrow with the right cartridges in it. Makes a big difference. I think it’s a 3M 7500. Exhausts down which is nice when you where glasses.

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