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For those with bandsaws, here's a tip/trick that some may already know, rolling heavy logs through

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 06-09-2012 05:06 AM 879 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

3663 posts in 1264 days


06-09-2012 05:06 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tip bandsaw

I tried to find a suitable location for this thread so not sure if this is the right place.

For those with 14” including riser kits and larger bandsaws, here’s something that I discovered for myself that might help with rolling those large heavies (large logs and timber) through the blade but before I go into my finding, I’d like to mention that I’ve researched and found info on how to make jigs for this type of operation but with the method I use you don’t really need a jig also by rubbing wax paper can also make for a slick surface, I use this method quite often.

Ok so on with this newly found technique, this is for large heavy logs but can be used for other heavy projects as well, also is helpful to have an out-feed table inline with the saw table but not required depending on the size of the log, note: I have an out feed table on mine.

1. Make sure Saw is off and unpluged, take safty measures before hand.
2.. Set the fence the distance from the blade for the cut. For large logs over 12” diameter, since my clearence is only 12” from the top of the table surface, I place the log on the right side of the blade over the miter slot with only the edge of the log lined with the blade.
3. knock off the bark for a better smooth roll.
4. Gather up to 4 round pencils, (not octagon) sometimes 2 to 3 work just fine.
5. Turn on your DC if applicable.
6. Place Log on table with side resting up against the fence.
7. Lift both ends of the log one at a time and place one of the pencils under the log at each end making sure you have enough clearence from the top of the saw guides to the top of the log also making sure they are out of the way of the blade so as not to saw your pencils.
8. You now have a roller feed which makes rolling the logs through the blade much eaiser.

Once you’ve got one flat side on the log the method goes much smoother as you now have a flat area to roll on. If you have to make a cut in the center of the log first push the log through the blade just resting on the table surface before placing pencils, once you have a 1” clearence on the other side of the blade stop, turn off saw and simply lift the log each end and place the pencils under each end then proceed.

Thanks for viewing
Questions please ask. :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


4 replies so far

View Donna Menke's profile

Donna Menke

576 posts in 3018 days


#1 posted 06-09-2012 12:19 PM

Blackie- My experiences with cutting logs on the band saw have all been bad, so I’m not an expert, but any time I try to cut a round piece of wood without stabilizing it so that it cannot roll on me. . . it rolls on me. I strongly recommend one of the jigs that screws the log in place so that it cannot roll. Fingers can be lost otherwise.

-- "So much wood. . .so little time!" www.woodworks-by-donna.com

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Blackie_

3663 posts in 1264 days


#2 posted 06-09-2012 12:45 PM

Donna once that first flat area is on the log, it’s all down hill from there, one other option would be to just grab your chainsaw, make your measurement, draw a line to cut on log and a steady hand you can use it to make that first pass for a flat area. I have a jig, it’s L shaped with two flat surfaces made from two pieces of ply with a brace on each end to hold both parts together, the upright is screwd to the log and the other edge slides along the fence keeping the log steady only problem with this is I can’t cut logs larger then 11 1/2” Dia and I have to start the cut in the center of the log, I like to square up the log first then slice from the edge. I’ve been making good size blocks 3 1/2” to 4” thick for my boxes.

I do very well once I’ve removed the bark and have it rested up against the fence, I’m also able to cut logs up to 15” but I should have mentioned for those that aren’t sure about this method or find it a bit trying just use the chainsaw to get your first flat area, you should be ok after that.

By the way Donna, I hit the mother load jackpot on spalted hackberry, I ran across yet another tree that just died 17” Dia and was able to get it in it’s prime with spalting and before the worms got to it, though they were starting too.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View tyskkvinna's profile

tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1738 days


#3 posted 06-09-2012 01:01 PM

I actually fussed around yesterday with a “jig” that kind of resembles what you just mentioned. Works well and once you know through a flat side,, much easier!

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View smokey1945's profile

smokey1945

75 posts in 2134 days


#4 posted 06-09-2012 06:33 PM

Thank You Blackie!

-- TheShadeTreeWW If God wanted me to touch my toes, he'd have put them on my knees

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