| Forum topic by 12strings | posted 353 days ago | 2970 views | 2 times favorited | 18 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
|
353 days ago |
I have a relative who would like me to build a set of bunk beds, and paint them dark navy blue. What is the best paint for furniture? Here’s what I have used in the past: -- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier! |
18 replies so far
|
#1 posted 353 days ago |
What’s wrong with a quality interior latex trim paint? You can get several sheens, brush or spray, cleans up well, and will cure fully in a week. I didn’t say dry, I said cure. -- bill@magraphics.us |
|
#2 posted 353 days ago |
MDO, Medium Density Overlay, paints up real nice. I like Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, it rocks and has great coverage. I’m not sure if you have Dunn Edwards +1 for Bill White on a quality interior latex paint with FloTrol. Except I like using XMI, probably similar stuff different Good luck on your project. |
|
#3 posted 353 days ago |
latex shouldnt take that long to cure. the stickiness you see is called blocking. Couple of causes for that… cheap paint, applied too thick, not enough time between coats, etc. I think a good quality latex paint would be a good choice. |
|
#4 posted 353 days ago |
I’ve heard good things about Krylon spray paint and furniture. It comes very cheap and is supposed to work just as good as Rustoleum. It drips a little more though. Alternatively, Simple Spray brand spray paint is made specifically for furniture. I don’t know much about it, but I know someone who recommends it. Look into it if you’re feeling adventurous. -- Premiere Tree Services Network: http://www.premieretreeservices.com/ |
|
#5 posted 353 days ago |
Quality of the paint job also depends on the quality of the primer. A good primer coat eliminates many painting woes. -- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box. |
|
#6 posted 353 days ago |
First full disclosure my in-laws own an Industrial Paint Supply place here in Cincinnati. I have never been a fan of paint, but they have changed my mind. I refinished a kitchen table and used Coronado Paint (I believe it was an enamel with flow control additive). I brushed it on and even with my poor skills you cannot see a brush stroke. I like it so well I gave the left over of my quart to my mother to use (she is no relation to the paint store). We are about to paint the exterior of our house again …. we are using Coronado. Do your own web search … what I think you will find is it is a bit more expensive then you local big box store , but it is also worth the price difference. I am frugal …. not cheap. Ok maybe a little bit cheap. Good Luck |
|
#7 posted 353 days ago |
I like milk paint. -- Bondo Gaposis |
|
#8 posted 353 days ago |
Candl, What type of Coronado did you use on that kitchen table (there are several different Coronado products)? I’m gonna rehab our kitchen table this year (this year for sure!). I’ll appreciate all the advice I can get. Thanks, -- Jim Maher, Illinois |
|
#9 posted 353 days ago |
My wife is gearing up for a paint project later this week on some furniture (futons, changing table, etc). At first we were thinking of brushing on a pigmented lacquer, but it seems as if lacquer is better on cabinets and bookshelves as opposed to furniture. Is that correct? Any suggestions as good paints to buy that our commonly available without having to break the bank or go to some super obscure retailer? -- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson |
|
#10 posted 353 days ago |
Bondo or anyone else for that matter I’ve heard of milk and chalk paint recently. Can you give me a quick rundown of the positives and negatives of these? -- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson |
|
#11 posted 353 days ago |
When I get a customer that requests a painted piece I use either an acrylic latex or a General Finish paint, depending on what they want. But waho6o9 hit it right when he recommended Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer. I’ve used all sorts of primers but that’s been the best so far – even above Kilz Gold. -- Happiness does not come from doing easy work but from the afterglow of satisfaction that comes after the achievement of a difficult task that demanded our best. --Theodore I. Rubin |
|
#12 posted 352 days ago |
I have had Ralph good luck with Rustoleum for wood. In fact, I painted the door from the garage to the house with this paint as this entrance get the heaviest use gets the dirtiesr, and it cleans up easily! I applied this with a small foam roller and got a super smooth finish! -- "I never met a board I didn't like!" |
|
#13 posted 352 days ago |
My first question would be, how do you plan on applying it? I’d say spray it, but that’s my preference for a really good-looking (IMO) finish. Bunk beds (for kids I’m guessing) probably won’t need a really nice finish (you know what I mean). I’d say use an enamel or acrylic enamel or, worst case, a lacquer. That’s just me though. The enamels are going to provide excellent protection and are easy to clean. I don’t care what anyone says about latex on furniture. I think latex is for walls. I have it on a few window trim pieces and things end up sticking to them if left on too long (this is more than 2 years after I painted them). If I was given the choice between latex (what used to be water-based) or oil-based house paint for furniture, I’d pick oil-based. -- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss |
|
#14 posted 351 days ago |
Thanks for all the replies… I have in the past bought a can of Rustoeum and brushed it on. that seems to work pretty well, and is more economical than buying a bunch of spray cans. I’m still leaning that direction, since I don’t really know about other oil/acrylic type paints. I agree about latex on furniture. I painted a bookshelf 2 years ago, and just last week put a new glass picture frame on it, tried to move it the next day, and had to pry it off. I’m not doing that again. Can someone elaborate on the need for primer? I have painted a few things with rustoleum for my kids, and I’m not sure what benifit primer would add. -- I'm strictly hand-tool only...unless the power tool is faster and easier! |
|
#15 posted 351 days ago |
Using primer usually insures better adhesion and reduces the number of coats you’ll have to use in the end (normally) while also producing a more consistent color (the primer provides a more consistent base color). It’s also better to use primer when you’re putting lighter paint on a darker surface. You can also tint your primers when using darker paints to make coverage go faster. This all reduces overall costs on paint (which is almost always more expensive than primer) since you won’t need as much to achieve your final color. I normally use it when I’m using spray paints as they tend to be very thin in application and it prevents me from having to use 6-8 coats of paint (no primer) instead of just 2-3 with primer. A lot of spray paints are acrylic enamel. Just clarifying since you said you weren’t familiar with them. -- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss |
Have your say...
|
You must be signed in to reply.
|
| Forum | Topics |
|---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
8799 |
Woodturning
|
224 |
Woodcarving
|
28 |
Scrollsawing
|
61 |
Joinery
|
82 |
Finishing
|
1539 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
3556 |
Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
15820 |
Hand Tools
|
2040 |
Jigs & Fixtures
|
496 |
Wood & Lumber
|
2847 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
810 |
Focus on the Workspace
|
904 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
766 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
2742 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
1547 |
Coffee Lounge
|
6167 |





















