LumberJocks

thickness planer vs jointer

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by jimmyhopps posted 06-06-2012 01:49 AM 3174 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View jimmyhopps's profile

jimmyhopps

144 posts in 1069 days


06-06-2012 01:49 AM

I’m somewhat of a newbie and…
I have an 8” jointer, but no thickness planer. I know this is the reverse order of acquisition for most folks but it is what it is. All of what i read about squaring stock is to joint 2 sides then plane and rip. My question is how sever a deficiency is it to joint both sides of a board vs using the planer?


13 replies so far

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2468 posts in 1782 days


#1 posted 06-06-2012 01:56 AM

I would rather have the jointer before the planer – depending on what type of woodworking you do of course.

I have a jointer but not a planer. So I usually face one side then an adjacent side. Then I take it to the table saw and square everything up. But the wood I use is usually in the 2X4 range or smaller – so this works for me.

It would be ideal to have a jointer and a planer though! Its very hard, maybe impossible, to face both sides with a jointer and get the results you would if you used the jointer then the planer. Mainly because you can face one side flat, but then when you flip it around to the other side its not referencing the other flat side. So you wont get a parallel face, like you would with a planer.

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5354 posts in 1289 days


#2 posted 06-06-2012 01:57 AM

Depends on on how straight the stock was to start. The board will not have the same thickness all the way through, which could cause problems.

View mark4345's profile

mark4345

55 posts in 1113 days


#3 posted 06-06-2012 02:02 AM

as dakremer said already jointing both faces will not give you parallel sides. you will have 2 flat sides but not necessarily parallel.

View DrewM's profile

DrewM

176 posts in 1689 days


#4 posted 06-06-2012 02:12 AM

I used to own a jointer and a planer….now its just a planer. I got into the world of hand planes and found that I could get excellent results without having to use the jointer. I have a small shop and the 6” jointer took up to much room for me. Plus I’m not limited to width of my jointer bed. The thickness planer is well worth keeping around since it can make faces parallel. But if I had to do large amounts of lumber that jointer would be really nice to have.

-- Drew, Delaware

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1176 posts in 1166 days


#5 posted 06-06-2012 02:21 AM

I simply could not do without either one. Both are essential to getting quality finished lumber for projects.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT15 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln

View rockindavan's profile

rockindavan

284 posts in 1326 days


#6 posted 06-06-2012 02:43 AM

Sounds like you got the more expensive one out of the way. Benchtop planers do a decent job and don’t cost a fortune and have a small footprint.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7740 posts in 2338 days


#7 posted 06-06-2012 04:07 AM

It is virtually impossible to joint both sides of a board
to consistent thickness on a jointer freehand.

There are some jigging methods of thicknessing
on the jointer. One was described by Tage Frid
in a FWW article many years ago. Another is to
build an attachment similar to the planer attachment
which was at one time available for the INCA 410
jointer.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Cato's profile

Cato

641 posts in 2003 days


#8 posted 06-06-2012 12:03 PM

Like rockingdan says, you got the biggie out of the way when you got the 8 inch jointer.

Until you can get a planer, you might be able to get planed lumber from your lumberyard.

The one I use locally will sell either rough or planed 2 sides to me.

Loren may step in and correct me if I am wrong on this, but it seems like a jointer by design will produce a slight taper even with flipping ends to try and counteract the effect.

View jimmyhopps's profile

jimmyhopps

144 posts in 1069 days


#9 posted 06-06-2012 09:18 PM

Many thanks all for the responses. i will research the jigging and lumber yard approach, then hopefully find funds for a planer.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5517 posts in 2066 days


#10 posted 06-06-2012 09:34 PM

The only thing the jointer can really do to both sides is smooth both the surfaces a bit…it’s capable of flattening both sides, but they won’t be parallel, and the thickness won’t be consistent. If the back of the boards will be hidden, being parallel is less important, but it sure makes things easier in general.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View HamS's profile

HamS

1168 posts in 1079 days


#11 posted 06-06-2012 09:37 PM

Beware the lmber yard planed two sides stock. Most times it is run through a thickness planer and then turned over and run through the otherside. You get two nice surfaces and they are parallel, but they are not necessarily flat. If you have the lumber yard do it for you make sure they are jointing the first face before they run it through the thickness planer or you will have parallel warped bards with two nice faceses

-- My mother named me Hamilton, I have been trying to earn my nickname ever since.

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6242 posts in 1491 days


#12 posted 06-06-2012 09:59 PM

When money is tight, as it often is for every woodworker, we just have to remember that the best furniture ever made was done without power tools like that. A couple of good used Stanley hand planes and some practice, maybe a few you tube videos, and you may find you don’t need to spend $500 on a planer.

That said…power tools sure are sweet…

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2097 posts in 879 days


#13 posted 06-06-2012 11:14 PM

As others have indicated, the sequence is to joint first, thickness second. If a board is bowed and only thickness planed, the planer will simply flatten it, take some wood off the whole piece, and the bow will spring back as soon as the board exits the planer.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase