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Sanding Sealer with Oil?

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Forum topic by rockindavan posted 06-04-2012 05:12 AM 1743 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rockindavan

283 posts in 1290 days


06-04-2012 05:12 AM

I’m building a cabinet that is all solid wood, which is mostly cherry. I’m going to finish it with Watco teak oil and I’m wondering if I should use sealer on the wood before I apply the oil.

Will the sealer cause the wood to have a different sheen then pure oil? I have never used sealer before since I’m willing to put a couple of coats down of the final finish as a sealer whether it be lacquer or varnish. The only reason I would use the sealer is to prevent the cherry from blotching. Is it worth my trouble to seal first?


6 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile (online now)

waho6o9

4921 posts in 1231 days


#1 posted 06-04-2012 05:43 AM

Maybe try on some scrap pieces first using different recipes and see which one you like.

Good luck.

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patron

13034 posts in 1995 days


#2 posted 06-04-2012 05:46 AM

don’t know for sure

but it seems the sealer
would do just that first

and maybe keep the oil from penetrating

just hang loose for a bit

some experts will come along
and have better info

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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premieretreeservices

17 posts in 953 days


#3 posted 06-04-2012 01:58 PM

The purpose of teak oil is to replenish the natural oils that may have been lost and the intention therefore is to have the wood soak in the oil. If you put sealer on before you oil it, you will likely prevent the oil from piercing the wood as it should. I have heard of people doing things the other way around: applying oil and then applying sealer. Theoretically, this would let the oil penetrate the wood and then the sealer would seal it in so that it cannot leak out over time. I have heard that this works to give the effects of the oil without the trouble of reapplying every few months. However, in most cases oils and sealers are spoken of as choices. One or the other. I have never tried both so I am hesitant to advise you to do so.

-- Premiere Tree Services Network: http://www.premieretreeservices.com/

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1504 days


#4 posted 06-04-2012 02:44 PM

Could you be more specific about “sealer”?

If you are thinking about something like MinWax Pre Stain Wood Conditioner, the answer would be to try some on scrap and A-B it with just teak oil on an adjoining piece of real estate. You’ll get your answer.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1455 posts in 1015 days


#5 posted 06-04-2012 08:31 PM

All finishes are self “sealing,” which is actually a meaningless term promoted by the comsumer finishes manufacturere to entice the gullible to buy yet another product, which is usually formulated from BLO, driers, and solvents. The Watco TeakOil is probably the same mixture with maybe a little alkyd or urethane resin added. There’s no Truth in Labeling Law in the finishes business.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3455 posts in 2614 days


#6 posted 06-04-2012 08:59 PM

.....and DON”T use any MinWax sanding sealer either before or after the oil you choose.
Why not just use a wiping tung oil varnish? Ya get all the benefits (bennies) of the oil color as well as the sealing properties of varnish.
Old Masters wiping tung oil varnish (no connection) has been a winner in my shop for a long time. There are others out there.
What was the old saying? Wipe on, wipe off? Good pre-prep and a well washed T shirt cloth will give you a great finish after several coats.
I usually follow up with a 0000 steel wool and wax rub out. Then, buff with another hunk of the cotton shirt.
Just my opinion.
Oh, didja get the feeling that I don’t like MW? That stuff might be for painters, but it ain’t for quality woodworker’s finishing projects.
Bill
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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