Quick and dirty way to create 2 slots in workbench for crosscut sled?

When I did mine, I clamped guide boards to my workbench and routed a 1” wide slot that went far enough into the bench to allow the sled to clear the blade.

I went to 1” so the sled runners wouldn’t get hung up if the bench or saw moved.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

What 1/4” shank bit do I use to route a 1” wide slot? Just a straight router bit and move it around between the two guides to remove all the material?

Just use a guide board or straight edge and route with you 1/4” shank router bit but only cut half way down using two passes this will cause a lot less stress on your router bit. If you don’t have a 3/4” router bit just move the fence after the first two cuts so that your router bit cuts you 3/4” groove.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Clamp your guideboards at the desired distance apart and use them to get straight sides then freehand the rest.

I still encourage wider slots in your workbench. If the bench or saw move a little, the sled won’t travel all the way. The directional support for the sled runner is the saw miter slot. The workbench slot(s) just allow full sled travel.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

Agree with sawkerf. You could also cut 3/8” off your workbench
legs and nail 1/4” masonite to the bench… which is durable and cheap
and takes wax well. Just cut the masonite into strips and nail those
on, avoiding the routering altogether.

If I was you, I would buy a 3/4 inch router bit. It will come in handy in the long run for many other projects.
Cut a straight edge with whatever means you have. Make sure your straight edge is wide enough so you have room to clamp it to the table and not interfere with the router base.

Layout your grooves where you want them.

Measure from where the edge of the router bit meets the outer line to the edge of your router base.
Clamp your straight edge so you router will follow the straight edge as you move the router along the edge. measure and check several times to insure you will be routing the table in the correct position.
If you want a little extra space, set up you straight edge an eight inch or so outside so you will have to make two passes to rout the groove you are asking about.

Rout your groove in two or three passes. Then move you straight edge so the router bits will cut the same amount past the other mark. Repeat above steps.

Search You Tube. There are a lot of router video how to do its!

I have that very task ahead of me when I finish making my table.
Good luck.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

This probably isn’t the answer you are looking for but I just raised my tablesaw 1/2” above my bench to provide clearance for the sled runners. Works well for my purposes.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

Search Projects for “Dado Jig” – there are several versions consisting of two guide parts that can be set to the desired dado width. You move the router back and forth guided by the jig, using a bit smaller than the desired width (it is easiest if the bit is more than half the final width, but will work with a smaller bit).

I’ll agree with sawkerf and others that the dado in your table should be wider than the tracks in the table saw.

-- Peter