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Wavy drawer front

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Forum topic by siouxdawgs0409 posted 772 days ago 887 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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siouxdawgs0409

104 posts in 1679 days


772 days ago

I am looking at building a drawer with a wavy front design… Similiar to the design on this mirror.
http://www.furnituresupersource.com/vintage-cherry-cheval-mirror/":http://www.furnituresupersource.com/vintage-cherry-cheval-mirror/

Can any one provide some good resources on how to take on this task? Is this a solid piece, veneered?


8 replies so far

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cabmaker

1279 posts in 1394 days


#1 posted 771 days ago

Im just spectulating that the peice in question is veneerd over a wavy substrate. Youll have to do that. You have a bandsaw ?

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siouxdawgs0409

104 posts in 1679 days


#2 posted 771 days ago

I do have a band saw.

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cabmaker

1279 posts in 1394 days


#3 posted 771 days ago

I would mill the drawer front with stacked mdf and radius the front only. The inside can remain flat. There are preferances though like Douglas fir,etc. but you can count on the mdf staying constant with that venner,(I dont think im spelling that right, oh well)

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siouxdawgs0409

104 posts in 1679 days


#4 posted 771 days ago

Thanks…I will look into that a little closer. Just starting to get some ideas.

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siouxdawgs0409

104 posts in 1679 days


#5 posted 753 days ago

With an mdf as the substrate I would open the drawer and see the substrate on the sides. Plus joinery might be a challenge with mdf joining to the hardwood drawer side. How could this be eliminated? Also with the veneer going to the edges of the drawer would I have to worry about the veneer getting caught as you pull the drawer open and close and eventually separating over time?

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Tennessee

1447 posts in 1100 days


#6 posted 753 days ago

I’d bet that the inside is also curved as the front. If you are going to bandsaw the front, why not the inside? And I think I’d use poplar as a substrate, glued up to eliminate grain running in the wrong direction. Lighter than MDF, more period correct, no joint problems. If the last piece where it connects to the sides is 3/4” flat, or 1/2”, you could even dovetail the sides on. Groove in the bottom for the drawer bottom would be tough to get in that inside curve, though. I’d probably rout a dado in the curve and glue and tack the bottom on.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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siouxdawgs0409

104 posts in 1679 days


#7 posted 753 days ago

Would not leaving the inside flat make it easier to join and attach a bottom? I do not see a problem with the varied thickness of the drawer front if I radiused only outside.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3322 posts in 2546 days


#8 posted 753 days ago

Radius outside only will be just fine.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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