Stanley No. 18 Plane from CL (and some other goodies)

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Forum topic by BinghamtonEd posted 05-31-2012 04:08 PM 2104 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2393 days

05-31-2012 04:08 PM

Yesterday I responded to a CraigsList ad, and picked up this lot for $30 :

1 Stanley No 18 (I believe it is the 18, no patent number on it, couldn’t find out a whole lot)
1 Stanley No 3 Level
1 square
10 bits (including a adjustable one, should be fun at least to try, anyone used these?)
2 files

The plane looks to be in great shape. The sole is dead-on flat, all parts are in good shape, just needs to be cleaned and sharpened, I think. Anyone have any experience with these knuckle planes? Fits very well in my hand. If I get bored, I may try to clean up the square and level and apply some BLO.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

10 replies so far

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


15368 posts in 2642 days

#1 posted 05-31-2012 06:19 PM

That’s a nice lot for $30, I would have dropped on that one too!

The dimensions for the #18, and all other Stanley planes for that matter, are on Patrick Leach’s Blood and Gore site if you havent’ checked there. Looks like an early model with that plain-letter stamping on the cap. My #18 fits very well in the hand, too. Certainly worth the effort to get yours fettled and working. Congrats!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View Don W's profile

Don W

18754 posts in 2591 days

#2 posted 05-31-2012 08:14 PM

I’ve got 3 #18s. The 18 is my favorite regular angle block, and well owrth the money you paid.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View chrisstef's profile


17423 posts in 3030 days

#3 posted 05-31-2012 08:21 PM

Thats the split knuckle lever cap too! Ive got one that may have been my great grandfathers exactly like it, well minus the mouth adjustment lever. Can you make out a patent date on it. I believe mine is from the late 1800’s.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View Deycart's profile


444 posts in 2281 days

#4 posted 06-01-2012 02:50 AM

That is a type 2 #18. The finish looks like it will clean up great. Nice find. Just drop it in some evaporust.

View Brad's profile


1139 posts in 2763 days

#5 posted 06-01-2012 03:09 AM

Do my eyes deceive me or do I see four NOS auger bits in there? I’ve picked up new old stock augers and been amazed by how those bits are “supposed” to drill. That did it for me so I’m putting together a set of NOS bits. I’ve been a-burned a time or two—buying augers with stripped screws and poorly sharpened edges…but I chalk it up to a real-world education on what to look for in an auger.

Ed, I love my #18 that I picked up at a garage sale. That high-angle is a dream when planing with the grain. I reach for my low-angle #65 for end grain.

-- "People's lives are their own rewards or punishments."

View woodworker59's profile


560 posts in 2224 days

#6 posted 06-01-2012 03:35 AM

I have used the adjustable bits quite a bit, they are great for boring a hole just the right size when mortising in a turned pull that you didn’t quite turn to exactly 5/8” or 7/16”. just adjust the bit to the dia. you need and bit brace your way to happiness and success.. have fun..oh by the by they come in different sizes also.. hard to tell from the pic, but that appears to be the smaller one.. have fun..

-- Papa...

View WhoMe's profile


1564 posts in 3267 days

#7 posted 06-01-2012 04:21 AM

like chrisstef, I have the same #18 (a type 2 per Deycart) with the early style knuckle cap in the picture and funny, mine is missing the mouth adjustment lever too. Mine was inherited from my wife’s grandfather. It was WELL used as the knuckle finish is pretty much gone, a blade has been ‘modified’ with the central hole being filed well into the adjustment notches, the rear of the base has a chip out of it and one of the sides has a hairline crack through the finger depressions on one side so being well used seems like a understatement.
BUT, it just adds character to it especially since I know who it came from (with a Bailey #6C, a #99, a couple sweetheart bevel gauges, a brace, auger bits, a bunch of old chisels, some really nice and unique/rare hand saws and a couple other items) I really love mine as I love how it fits in my hand and it works GREAT with a nice sharp blade. I hope to find another one in as good of shape as the one you got so I can take the best of both and make a really nice plane.
As for patent dates, I found dates on the lever that does the sideways blade adjustments but I forgot what dates they were.
Nice find of goodies and enjoy that #18.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

View chrisstef's profile


17423 posts in 3030 days

#8 posted 06-01-2012 12:06 PM

I took a peek at my #18 and it had a patenet date of 1886 FYI.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2393 days

#9 posted 06-01-2012 12:56 PM

The mouth adjustment lever has a date of Feb 20 94 on it, and the lateral blade adjustment lever has a few on them, off-hand the only one I remember is 88. I used some Simple Orange cleaner on it last night, and it looks great. I’m worried that if I drop it in evaporust, it’ll remove some of the japanning too…anyone know? When I bought this plane, it was stored in an old sealed jar, which would explain the condition. This is only my 3rd plane. I have a Stanley 9 1/4 which used to be my Grandfathers, and the Harbor Freight No. 33 (nothing fancy by any means but once sharpened, works well). I have been keeping my eye out for some old larger planes.

Brad, I looked at the bits and they are Irwins, what designates them as NOS (new old stock I assume) or not? The chrome-plated ones are Craftsman.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Don W's profile

Don W

18754 posts in 2591 days

#10 posted 06-01-2012 01:24 PM

the evapo rust will only remove japanning if there is rust under it. I’ve soaked a lot of planes in evapo rust, they come out with the japanning in tact. I will often stick them in evapo rust before sandblasting. If to much comes off, I know there was rust and it need to be fixed. Rust doesn’t stop, it must be stopped. From the pictures, my guess would be your will be fine. Throw it in, and then you’ll know for sure.

Just a note, if its paint, that’s a different story. Some paints are fine. I’ve seen it strip the grey paint on Millers Falls planes.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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