LumberJocks

Narex Mortise Chisel Sharpening

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by nordichomey posted 813 days ago 2965 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View nordichomey's profile

nordichomey

100 posts in 1728 days


813 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

My wonderful family got me 3 new Narex mortise chisels for my birthday. There are 100’s of articles on sharpening bench chisel, but you rarely see anything on mortise chisels. They are about 25 degree from the factory. Assume you want the working end about 30-35 degrees.

Any insight? I do not remember seeing hollow grinds on mortise chisels? Assume you would want a bit of larger secondary bevel. They do not fit my honing guide. So I assume a free hand affair?

Thanks
Nordichomey

-- nordichomey


6 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2480 posts in 977 days


#1 posted 813 days ago

Here is a video how to do it free hand. He uses a plane iron but a mortise chisel is done the same. Link.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2088 days


#2 posted 813 days ago

I would leave the bevel angle as it came from the factory, I think you will have better edge retention. The mortise chisel will take a lot of abuse and the shallow angle will handle it better, of course that also depends on the species of wood. Narex comes pretty good right out of the box but will still need honing. flatten the backs as you would a bench chisel and then the bevel. You should not need a secondary angle. I think there should be enough surface area on the bevel for free hand honing. I would place the chisel on the stone, or what ever method you have chosen, and pull the chisel toward you. Lift the chisel and pull again until you get the honing completed. It should only take a few strokes to get a nice edge. If you find that the they dull quickly of the edge rolls over then maybe experiment with different bevel angles.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2275 days


#3 posted 813 days ago

you sharpen it just like any other blade – be it paring, bench, plane, or mortise – just find a method that works for you and perfect it for all your blades.

I DID hollow ground my mortise chisels just like I do all the rest, I can then freehand hone all the blades at the bench until they need reshaping, no jigs, no fuss… back to work. you are not really removing THAT much material with a hollow ground that it would affect the normal use of your tools. I think that part is sometimes exaggerated by some people.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View nordichomey's profile

nordichomey

100 posts in 1728 days


#4 posted 813 days ago

Thanks. I had been all honing guides, but have been practicing free hand methods on some secondary chisels and irons. This will be good practice.

Thanks

-- nordichomey

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

746 posts in 1611 days


#5 posted 813 days ago

I have read that you need to make sure that the sides get treated as well if you are doing full-width mortises (mortises exactly the full width of the chisel).

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View tirebob's profile

tirebob

123 posts in 1480 days


#6 posted 813 days ago

I would personally do a serious secondary bevel if you want the edge to stand up. I set at 35 degrees… If you look at what companies like Ray Isles suggests, this is what they do…

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/indextool.mvc?prodid=MS-MORT.XX

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase