Narex Mortise Chisel Sharpening

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Forum topic by nordichomey posted 05-31-2012 11:16 AM 6756 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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100 posts in 3340 days

05-31-2012 11:16 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

My wonderful family got me 3 new Narex mortise chisels for my birthday. There are 100’s of articles on sharpening bench chisel, but you rarely see anything on mortise chisels. They are about 25 degree from the factory. Assume you want the working end about 30-35 degrees.

Any insight? I do not remember seeing hollow grinds on mortise chisels? Assume you would want a bit of larger secondary bevel. They do not fit my honing guide. So I assume a free hand affair?


-- nordichomey

6 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile


5151 posts in 2589 days

#1 posted 05-31-2012 01:03 PM

Here is a video how to do it free hand. He uses a plane iron but a mortise chisel is done the same. Link.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 3700 days

#2 posted 05-31-2012 01:31 PM

I would leave the bevel angle as it came from the factory, I think you will have better edge retention. The mortise chisel will take a lot of abuse and the shallow angle will handle it better, of course that also depends on the species of wood. Narex comes pretty good right out of the box but will still need honing. flatten the backs as you would a bench chisel and then the bevel. You should not need a secondary angle. I think there should be enough surface area on the bevel for free hand honing. I would place the chisel on the stone, or what ever method you have chosen, and pull the chisel toward you. Lift the chisel and pull again until you get the honing completed. It should only take a few strokes to get a nice edge. If you find that the they dull quickly of the edge rolls over then maybe experiment with different bevel angles.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View PurpLev's profile


8548 posts in 3886 days

#3 posted 05-31-2012 01:40 PM

you sharpen it just like any other blade – be it paring, bench, plane, or mortise – just find a method that works for you and perfect it for all your blades.

I DID hollow ground my mortise chisels just like I do all the rest, I can then freehand hone all the blades at the bench until they need reshaping, no jigs, no fuss… back to work. you are not really removing THAT much material with a hollow ground that it would affect the normal use of your tools. I think that part is sometimes exaggerated by some people.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View nordichomey's profile


100 posts in 3340 days

#4 posted 05-31-2012 05:15 PM

Thanks. I had been all honing guides, but have been practicing free hand methods on some secondary chisels and irons. This will be good practice.


-- nordichomey

View Ripthorn's profile


1459 posts in 3223 days

#5 posted 05-31-2012 05:42 PM

I have read that you need to make sure that the sides get treated as well if you are doing full-width mortises (mortises exactly the full width of the chisel).

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View tirebob's profile


134 posts in 3092 days

#6 posted 05-31-2012 06:39 PM

I would personally do a serious secondary bevel if you want the edge to stand up. I set at 35 degrees… If you look at what companies like Ray Isles suggests, this is what they do…

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