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Forum topic by Lee Barker | posted 05-28-2012 07:09 PM | 1220 views | 0 times favorited | 11 replies | ![]() |
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05-28-2012 07:09 PM |
I keep an auxiliary table on the DP always, sometimes adding specific tables over it. Raising and lowering the table is an annoying knucklebuster: It looks to me—non machinist that I am—like an extension axle could be made that would put the crank outboard enough to make my right hand smile. Had the problem? Come up with a solution? Kindly, Lee -- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It" |
11 replies so far
#1 posted 05-28-2012 07:41 PM |
This one I found would suit my needs because I have a similar drill press |
#2 posted 05-28-2012 08:40 PM |
Would you be able to adapt a handWHEEL like those used on tablesaws? That way, you could keep your hand to the rear of the table. -- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use |
#3 posted 05-28-2012 08:43 PM |
I used to just have the wife turn my crank but now since she is my ex I am kinda stumped….. -- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........ |
#4 posted 05-28-2012 09:20 PM |
I wish I could find the link again , but this guy made a stub shaft that was turned by his cordless drill as needed , eliminating the crank handle. -- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain! |
#5 posted 05-28-2012 09:25 PM |
Why not just put spacer blocks between the DP table and the added table to clear the crank? |
#6 posted 05-28-2012 10:51 PM |
Wow! Bob, that is a cool set up. I knew there was a reason I hadn’t replaced mine, now I have one. -- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg |
#7 posted 05-29-2012 12:30 AM |
After digging through a few boxes of Delta parts I found one(The whole elevating mechanism) that was built on a 45 degree angle to the back of the table. B’leive it came from a DP350. Won’t work on a floor model though. Only on a benchtop. -- One of these hammers oughta fix that... |
#8 posted 05-29-2012 01:32 AM |
I used a coupling, a short piece of all-thread, then a set of nuts to secure the hand wheel. I drilled out and pinned the coupling to the drill and the all-thread so that it would not come loose. I had to grins a slot and use a key on the hand wheel. It works well for me. Cheers! -- Dave; Lansing, Kansas |
#9 posted 05-29-2012 01:39 AM |
I minimize the need to raise and lower the table, as much as I can. I use blocks to set stuff on, when practical. I am similarly lazy when it comes to changing speeds, I just leave it somewhere in the middle, unless I need to drill big holes in steel. -- Dan V. in Indy |
#10 posted 05-29-2012 01:42 AM |
I minimize the need to raise and lower the table, as much as I can. I use blocks to set stuff on, when practical. I am similarly lazy when it comes to changing speeds, I just leave it somewhere in the middle, unless I need to drill big holes in steel. or just do this- http://lumberjocks.com/projects/26578 -- Dan V. in Indy |
#11 posted 05-29-2012 09:39 PM |
And the winnah is…... dhazelton! Coupla pieces of 1” MDF and there you have it. And going for an extra base on an infield hit, I found a piece of tubing, chrome yet, that slipped right over the handle. 6” long. I added a crutch tip on the end. My knuckles are very happy, and all 8 of them thank you for your input on this question. Kindly, Lee -- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It" |
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