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Forum topic by Mainiac Matt posted 05-27-2012 05:24 PM 1089 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mainiac Matt

5999 posts in 1796 days


05-27-2012 05:24 PM

I purchased a compressor at one of those truck auctions years ago and for and got a package of cheap air tools and fittings to go with it. This sprayer was part of the kit, though I’ve never used it.

I’m interested in giving it a try now, but I know absolutely nothing about these things.

It has a bakelite body with what appears to be brass innerds and fairly rough cast metal parts. Though all the threads and tiny orifices seem to be machined fairly well.


Can anyone out there tell me what I’ve got and possibly point me to a resource where I can learn how to use it?

I was also wondering what the purpose of the slit in the adjustment nuts was for.

Thanks in advance

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!


13 replies so far

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#1 posted 05-27-2012 05:51 PM

I don’t know where your at but if your anywhere near New Market Va you might check into Charles Neil’s finishing class, he includes spraying as part of the class. He might be having a class in the north east in June? He also has feelers out for a class in southern California in the fall. The gun you have looks like it could be a old Harbor freight model ,if so I would consider getting a never one from Harbor freight ,their about $20 and are far better than their older models.
In any case if none of those options are open to you just get a piece of card board and practice spraying with just water,that way you can learn what all of the adjustments do and learn how to overlap your spray pattern. It might be hard to do with that gun but it’s worth a try. I’ve been spraying for 35 years and after you have some practice it gets the job done quicker and better than brushing finishes on.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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ShipWreck

557 posts in 3220 days


#2 posted 05-27-2012 06:06 PM

Here is a basic diagram. Like Jim said….. practice with some water. A little food coloring helps to give it definition.

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Mainiac Matt

5999 posts in 1796 days


#3 posted 05-27-2012 06:33 PM

any tips on pressure?

say 40 – 50 psi. to get the siphon to pick up?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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waho6o9

7179 posts in 2044 days


#4 posted 05-27-2012 06:43 PM

You might want to consider a water trap before spraying your projects though. Hate to see water drops on your fine work. HTH

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#5 posted 05-27-2012 06:46 PM

You can start there and see how it goes , place a are control value on the gun(cheater valve) helps because you have another easy way to control air pressure. You also need a compressor that has enough volume to handle spraying anything of size. If your spraying water base a water trap is less important than with Oil base materials.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Mainiac Matt

5999 posts in 1796 days


#6 posted 05-27-2012 07:29 PM

I have an old Devilbuss oil-less compressor with a 20 gal. tank…. the decal says 3 HP, but I’d guess it’s closer to 1.5 HP as it came set up for a 15 amp. 115 volt circuit. I’d guess it puts out maybe 4 cfm at high pressure.

I have a very good regulator-filter-water seperator at the compressor.

I guess I should get one of those tiny regulators and a seperate seperator to put at the tool itself.

I just spent a half hour spraying the side of the house with water and think I figured out the controls.

I’m hoping to spray some dewaxed shelac sealer on my blanket chest top soon.

would I be better off trying to clean this up with ammonia and water or denatured alcholo.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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a1Jim

115206 posts in 3044 days


#7 posted 05-27-2012 08:22 PM

That’s another important point , make sure you clean the gun completely buy spraying lots of the correct solvent through it ,in this case denatured alcohol. The quicker you material drys the quicker you need to clean the gun. You have to be a real fanatic about keeping your gun clean. If you just put in your solvent and shake the cup as you spray until the spray runs clear. This is another reason why I like water base,the solvent comes out of the tap :))

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2157 days


#8 posted 05-28-2012 02:27 AM

The ammonia and water works well for me and is a lot cheaper than alcohol so I tend to use more and do a better job of cleaning.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Mainiac Matt

5999 posts in 1796 days


#9 posted 05-28-2012 02:53 AM

Just regular ammonia bleach?

Or something special?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

5999 posts in 1796 days


#10 posted 05-28-2012 03:00 AM

Is it really necessary to shell out the cash for the magic air gun oil?

Or will nail gun or pneumatic tool oil do the trick to maintain a spray gun?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

3059 posts in 1754 days


#11 posted 05-28-2012 03:29 AM

ssnvet, Never, never, never use ammonia and bleach together, the fumes are toxic and you could end up in the hospital. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_happens_when_you_combine_bleach_and_ammonia.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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Mainiac Matt

5999 posts in 1796 days


#12 posted 05-28-2012 03:38 AM

Gulp!

I thought chlorine bleach had ammonia in it

:^O

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2157 days


#13 posted 05-28-2012 03:41 AM

Just plain ammonia cleaner from HD ,Lowes, etc. Never mix ANYTHING with bleach (chlorine gas results). I never oil my spray gun but I do run mineral spirits through it. I also run gasolene through it after spraying Spar Urethane. Then follow the gas with a small volume of MS. Probably not OSHA approved! But gas is a lot cheaper than MS!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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