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Bosch Sliding Miter saw off by 1 or 2 degrees - sometimes......

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Forum topic by Tino posted 05-24-2012 09:53 PM 1232 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tino

5 posts in 878 days


05-24-2012 09:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw precision plywood

Hi Everybody,

I have a hopefully simple problem that I’m hoping a more experienced woodworker can help me with. I have a sliding compound miter saw that I’m cutting plywood strips from to support a cell phone/personal speaker holder. Problem is only some of the cuts are true 90 degree cuts. About half of them are 89 or 88 degrees, so they don’t pass the speed square test. I know that I can take a sander to this, but am wondering why this happens and how to avoid it next time. My blade did come loose from the arbor (??) after a series of cuts this weekend.

Possible ideas:
Is it play within the blade itself?
Tool marks that are throwing off the alignment?
Moving the blade too quickly/too slowly?

Can somebody shed some light on this?

Thanks!
Tino


9 replies so far

View crank49's profile

crank49

3434 posts in 1626 days


#1 posted 05-24-2012 10:28 PM

Are you speaking of the “Glide” or the “Slide” miter saw.

There are some negative reviews on the new Glide miter saw.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2950 posts in 942 days


#2 posted 05-24-2012 10:29 PM

I can’t say for sure, but here are a few things I’ve learned with my DeWalt.
Before every cut, be sure to remove the sawdust and chips from the table and fence area. Before you cut use a small square to insure the blade is 90 degrees in both directions of the compound. When you get the blade to a true 90D make sure the indicator is showing 90 degree on the money, if it’s off, you can loosen the plastic indicator window via a small screw and adjust it.
As for the blade coming off last weekend; remove the blade and make sure the arbor (threads) are in good shape. If there is enough room between the blade and the retaining bolt, install a blade stabilizer disk, but only if there are plenty of threads left to insure the bolt will grab. You’ll want to see the bold and the threads flush at the least, if the threads end in the bolt, don’t use the stabilizer, rather buy a thicker blade.
One other thing, always pull the saw forward all the way and cut pushing it backward against the fence. If you just bring down the blade and pull it toward yourself, you can pull the work off the fence.
Cut slowly, don’t force it.
Hope that helps.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2196 posts in 2202 days


#3 posted 05-25-2012 12:20 AM

As Russell has stated, using a speed square, ensure your blade is a perfect 90 degree at both fences on left and right side, ensure blade is 90 degree to the table top on left and right side of blade, using a straight edge ensure both left and right fence are perfectly aligned with each other. There are adjustment screws at different locations on your miter saw that will allow you to fine tune your saw for accurate cuts. I have a habit of checking our miter saws for 90 degree accuracy quite frequently.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1506 days


#4 posted 05-25-2012 04:32 AM

If some of the cuts are true and some aren’t, it’s more likely Russell’s chip idea or technique. If you’re not moving the table between these cuts that vary, that’s helpful.

Do you have a sharper blade to try?

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View lionel's profile

lionel

1 post in 848 days


#5 posted 05-25-2012 05:57 AM

I had that happen once and it was caused by using a table saw blade instead of a slide compound blade. Are the teeth on your blade square cut? They should be. My tool sharpener sharpened it on an angle, as for a table saw.
Just a thought.
Lionel.

-- lionel wawoodworker aus

View Loren's profile

Loren

7561 posts in 2303 days


#6 posted 05-25-2012 08:05 AM

Are you cutting on the pull or on on the push?

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2408 days


#7 posted 05-25-2012 09:12 AM

Tino…. Blade coming loose from the arbor? You might want to investigate the cause before you use that saw again.

View Tino's profile

Tino

5 posts in 878 days


#8 posted 05-28-2012 01:41 AM

Stupid work got in the way. Thanks for all the replies! I won’t be getting into my shop until after the 8 of June perhaps even later than that. I forgot to mention that the arbor stop/lock on the right side of the blade doesn’t work . Push it down, and it doesn’t stop the blade. I think that I’m going to have to take off the blade completely, and check that arbor itself. Tell you what I find. Thanks again for all the feedback.

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Tino

5 posts in 878 days


#9 posted 10-10-2012 04:59 PM

Hi Everybody, Wanted to give you a post mortem of how I fixed my SCMS. With a regular square, I couldn’t really see any deviation of the blade from 90. What I had to do was, use a digital angle meter with a magnetic base. I stuck the meter on to the blade, and adjusted it from there. As a reference point, I put the meter on the deck of the saw and zero’ed it out. Then I stuck the meter onto the blade and saw that it was 0.1 degree off. i adjusted the blade angle using the screws in the back. All in all, it took me about an hour to do. It made me a very happy camper! Thanks for all the advice. -T

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