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Makita 2030 planer jointer help

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Forum topic by MrUnix posted 05-20-2012 11:23 PM 3943 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


05-20-2012 11:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question makita 2030

Hello all! New guy around here, so be gentle :) For the past few years, I have been doing some restoration work on old woodworking machines. For my latest project, I have a Makita 2030 planer/jointer that I’m going to do a full restoration on. I would typically seek assistance over at OWWM, but even the mention of an asian machine over there will get you tarred and feathered :) I’m hoping that I can get some guidance from some of the members here who have already gone down this road. In return, I hope that I can offer the same to others who are working on any of the machines that I have had experience on.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid


14 replies so far

View oluf's profile

oluf

257 posts in 1790 days


#1 posted 05-21-2012 12:43 AM

I have only had mine for thirty years so it is not due for any restoration work yet. Ten years ago I did replace the planer drive rollers. These rollers are the only week spot on the unit. Did you get the tool kit with it? Did you get a manual? I have a Makita flat surfase wet grinder and sharpen my blades. When you set your blades make sure to set them proud of the out feed table and the planer top opening. You want your leveling block to move 1/8” to 3/8” as the blade passes the upper apex of it’s arc. I recommend that you clean it good. Set sharp blades proud and run it hard.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

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MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


#2 posted 05-21-2012 04:41 AM

Thanks Oluf! Mine was actually in pretty rough shape when I got it.. and while it did run, it had been badly neglected and the drive rollers had no rubber left on them at all..

It’s in a zillion pieces now, but I still haven’t figured out how to separate the head, posts and base.. I’ve been soaking them down with PB blaster and WD40 for the last few weeks but they still will not budge (and yes, I did take out the spring pins!). These are the last few pieces I need to get apart so I can begin media blasting and painting. I’m usually pretty good at figuring out how things come apart, but this one has me about stumped.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


#3 posted 07-22-2012 12:01 AM

When you set your blades make sure to set them proud of the out feed table and the planer top opening.

I was curious about this statement as it goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the blades level with the out feed table. So I decided to break out the dial indicator and do a little measuring :) What I noticed is that when the cutter head lock is in place, the blades are just slightly in front of TDC. I leveled the jointer blades like stated in the manual and double checked with the indicator. Sure enough, when locked and leveled in that fashion, the blades are dead level with the out feed table, but about 0.002” proud at TDC. I didn’t bother checking the planer blades and simply verified with the indicator that they were both exactly the same height (to within 0.0005”) after leveling.

I imagine that this would work well for new (or freshly sharpened) blades as the cutting edge will wear slightly after initial use. 0.002” of wear? I dunno.. I’ll check on them with the indicator every now and then after some use to see what they do. Just for grins, I also set them dead level at TDC to see if there was any difference in performance. None that I could detect, and the slightly lower blades produced just as straight an edge as the blades set a few thousandths higher. They also moved the leveling block forward about 1/8”, which is about a half of what the higher blades did at 1/4”.

And no, I don’t have the tool kit. For the leveling blocks, I’m using some oak blocks that I fabricated up myself and made sure were perfectly flat. I have to admit, this is about the easiest machine to set blades on that I have ever owned and so far has been a joy to use.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Nur's profile

Nur

6 posts in 1514 days


#4 posted 10-02-2012 08:19 PM

Hello Brad -

Have you had any luck figuring out how to remove the jointer from the planer body (and the posts)? I’ve got a similar situation. The poly belt broke on mine, and as best as I can figure, I’ve got to pull the jointer in order to change the belt.

I got the jointer cutterhead off without any problems, and removed the four bolts which fasten the jointer to the planer. But, there’s two pins that don’t allow the jointer to slide up off of the posts. Very confusing. If you (or anyone else) has any advice, I’d appreciate it.

Thanks,

Nur

View roptics's profile

roptics

2 posts in 788 days


#5 posted 10-28-2012 04:53 AM

I posted the exact same question an hour ago. I got the intake bed off easy enough. Jut trying to get the jointer removed from the main body. I removed the four bolts holding the jointer portion into the main unit but nothing budges.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


#6 posted 10-28-2012 06:22 AM

Still haven’t got it apart.. been lazy on it, just squirting it down with penetrating oil every day for the last month or so.. The jointer part does have two locater pins that align and hold it in place along with the bolts, meaning that it must be removed straight off to the side. Unfortunately, you can’t do that while the posts are still in place, so that is where I’m stuck at the moment as well. I fortunately have another 2030 that I’ve been using, so it hasn’t really been a pressing issue.

As for the belt replacement, I don’t believe you have to remove anything.. I’m pretty sure you can just loosen things up on each side and separate the two couplers enough to squeeze the belt between them, then re-tighten. I remember reading a post about the procedure somewhere but can’t find it at the moment. Sounds reasonable though based on what I see from my disassembly. If you already have the cutter head removed (on either side) though, it seems like you should be able to put the belt on easily.

The one good aspect of tearing both sides apart, for me at least, was that I discovered that the bearings were in really terrible shape and desperately needed replacement. If you do take it all apart, I’d recommend replacing them even if they appear to be good.. you really don’t want to go through the process again!

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View JeffeVerde's profile

JeffeVerde

3 posts in 1443 days


#7 posted 04-14-2013 09:12 PM

Has anyone photo-documented their tear-down and reassembly of the 2030? I’m picking up a neglected 2030 this weekend that looks to be in need of a complete makeover.

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sawdustmonkey

7 posts in 541 days


#8 posted 07-02-2013 09:32 PM

I just recently put new rollers on my 2030 and they are way better than the originals and exchanged some of the bolts with new bolts or Allen headed bolts. I picked up a belt but didn’t see an easy way to slip it in as described above, so I’m storing that belt until I have to do that project and hoping someone leads the way with some pictures.

If you need your rollers resurfaced, send your old rollers here, tell them your model and they will send them back surfaced which are better than new:
Sales Manager
Western Roller Corp.
63393 Nels Anderson Rd.
Bend, OR 97701
Ph. 800-541-2317 or 541-382-5643
Fax 541-382-0159
salesone@westernroller.com

-- Joe, Petaluma, home hack

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


#9 posted 07-02-2013 11:50 PM

I’ve been taking pictures along the way.. I use them to figure out how everything goes back together :)

I had my feed rollers redone by Western Roller.. fantastic job and gave me a call several weeks after the job to make sure everything was done correctly. I do recommend them.

I’ve seen the drive belts on e-bay, but for what I consider an outrageous amount of money.. both mine are fine for now, but I would like to have a backup just in case. Where did you find the belt and how much was it?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Alred's profile

Alred

2 posts in 535 days


#10 posted 07-08-2013 12:13 AM

Makita 2030 Anyone know the best approach for removing the feed rollers? I am thinking one would remove the chain and gear first then remove the screws and collar. Don’t want to tear it apart without understanding the best approach.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


#11 posted 07-08-2013 03:45 AM

Yup.. pull the chain, remove the c-clips and yank the gears first. After that, you just remove the retaining screws to drop the bearings and springs. Many people (including myself) have found those little screws quite a bugger to remove and some have even replaced them with torx or hex heads to make it easier in the future. I found that an appropriate sized phillips bit in a 1/4” socket wrench provides all the torque needed to remove them fairly easily.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Alred's profile

Alred

2 posts in 535 days


#12 posted 07-08-2013 04:48 AM

Hey Brad thanks

View kimby's profile

kimby

2 posts in 856 days


#13 posted 04-23-2014 08:15 AM

It’s been a long time since anyone has written but I am hoping to get a reply from you folks out there in “lumber land”.
Does any one know the outside diameter(OD) of the rubber feed rollers on the a kit a 2030? Can someone go out and measure for me?
I had mine recovered locally and the guy took the OD off the original rollers in an undamaged area. Now, months later after finally getting it running, I’m realizing the rollers might be too big, preventing the blade from contacting the wood.
Any help would be much appreciated!
My two cents on reassembly, use “Anti Seize” when putting your bolts back to prevent the mixed metals from seizing. Its a bear getting some of those bolts out after 20 or 30 years. Be careful not to over torque when using it.
Thank you in advance,
Kim

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MrUnix

660 posts in 950 days


#14 posted 04-23-2014 02:05 PM

I can’t easily measure the ones I had recovered as they are already installed in the machine and the chip breaker prevents me from getting my calipers in there.. but the original rollers I have measured just a hair shy of 2 inches (1.998” or 50.77mm). You could probably verify with a quick call or e-mail to Western Roller.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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