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Which tape ages well?

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Forum topic by b2rtch posted 05-20-2012 12:52 PM 1370 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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b2rtch

4823 posts in 2515 days


05-20-2012 12:52 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am installing baffles in my Unisaw cabinet for dust collection:

http://lumberjocks.com/b2rtch/blog/29941.

I want to tape all the seams.
In the past I have used different kinds of duct tapes and HVAC aluminum tapes, cheap ones and expensive ones.
None aged very well.
After just a few years they fall apart.
Do you know a tape which last more than a few years?
If you know no tape, do you have a different solution to seal all the seams and to hold them together?
Thanks.
Bert

-- Bert


12 replies so far

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

13738 posts in 2085 days


#1 posted 05-20-2012 12:59 PM

What about silicone caulk?

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

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ShipWreck

557 posts in 3219 days


#2 posted 05-20-2012 01:02 PM

+1 silicone

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b2rtch

4823 posts in 2515 days


#3 posted 05-20-2012 01:13 PM

Silicon is a very good idea.
Thanks

-- Bert

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Loren

8313 posts in 3114 days


#4 posted 05-20-2012 04:06 PM

Fiberglass reinforced packing tape might hold up.

One problem with taping things in a wood shop is dust gets
in there. It seems to be always a loosing battle.

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 2151 days


#5 posted 05-20-2012 11:47 PM

I lived next to a BritishAirways guy for a while and he talked about “speed tape” to get big planes off the ground rather than cancelling a flight. do the google!

tape is funny…so-called “duct tape” works on everything except ducts (go figure) but then realize many people call it “duck tape” and get corrected. truth is they are right…it is “duck” derived from it’s canvas base.

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DawsonWoodworking

27 posts in 1663 days


#6 posted 06-05-2012 04:45 AM

I read an article in a magazine (fine woodworking?) it suggested used magnetic sheets, like a car door magnet or large refrigerator magnet to help seal up a cabinet saw. Maybe this could help.

-- Salt Lake City, UT My goal is to live forever - so far, so good.

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MonteCristo

2098 posts in 1655 days


#7 posted 06-05-2012 05:13 AM

Call me a wet blanket, but do you really want to do this ? I did the same with my Unisaw and now think it was overkill. Plus, in order for your collector to suck sawdust out from the cabinet, replacement air has to get in – make it airtight (pretty much impossible even with a zero clearance throat plate) and you’ll create a vacuum.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2317 days


#8 posted 06-05-2012 02:43 PM

I’m with MC. You look at a piece of equipment that has been around, virtually unchanged, for as long as the Unisaw has and you have to agree it’s just fine. All the controls work well even though they’re dusty.

If you have a zero clearance plate, which so many are so passionate about, how much dust will approach your nose? The sawdust is collected in the gullets (at about 100mph) and escapes as it can. Some falls below and eventually settles into a pile. Some comes out on top.

Adding suction to the section below takes away the dust laden air…from below, where it was contained already.

(side note: I see images on LJ of people’s elaborate constructions inside saws and they often have ramps. Sawdust will not slide down a ramp.)

Do I have DC on my saw? Certainly. 2hp, very short run. Sawdust still piles up in the bottom of the saw, and I still have to get down on my 134 year old knees and flip it at the DC intake to really clean it out. I hold that is easier than shoveling it out. I like having the DC on when I’m cutting mass amounts of parts and any manmade materials. But for cutting this and that, in my view, it isn’t worth the electricity or the increased dB.

Kindly,

Lee (who doesn’t want to sound curmudgeonly)

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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longgone

5688 posts in 2775 days


#9 posted 06-05-2012 03:03 PM

I silicone all of the connections on my duct-work around the shop but never seal the cabinet saw because air needs to come in to it in order for air to go out with the dust collector. I usually take my air compressor hose and use a long extension nozzle to blow out any dust not pulled out by the collector. I just remove my ZCI and blow dust off all the inside components while the dust collector is running.

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dbhost

5607 posts in 2698 days


#10 posted 06-05-2012 03:07 PM

I used GE Silicone Caulk on all the joints. A short (3/8” or 1/2” I beileve) sheet metal screw is used on each side to hold joints together than have some tension on them like the joints in the drops.

FWIW, I also have the aluminum HVAC tape on several of the joints. It’s only been 2 or so years, but it still looks brand new.

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2535 days


#11 posted 06-05-2012 03:29 PM

I’ve had the best results when I’ve used the aluminum duct tape, but even that needs some occasional “tuneup”. Using sheet metal screws to hold the duct sections will make a big difference since they eliminate (or at least reduce) movement in the joints.

I completely agree with everyone who says that additional baffles inside a saw cabinet probably isn’t worth the time and aggravation. Some sort of shroud around the blade probably works pretty well, but most saw cabinets will just collect the dust and need to be cleaned out periodically.

IMO. a ZCI really reduces DC efficiency where it’s most needed – at the blade. On my saw. with no throat plate, there’s a very noticable air flow at the throat. With the stock throat plate, the flow is significantly less, but there. With a ZCI, the flow is virtually nonexistant.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3949 posts in 1960 days


#12 posted 06-05-2012 08:21 PM

I’ll throw in my 2ยข. On my Uni, I used the foil tape, but only around the edges of the sloped baffle it has….not so much to seal the cabinet (which I think is a mistake) but to keep dust from falling down below the baffle. There are times when I’ll make a quick cut without turning on the DC, over the years I’ve had some dust pile up under the cabinet. The foil tape I’m using has been in there about 3 years and so far did very well. I do use a ZC insert almost all the time. Seems to me that the workpiece covers all the openings your insert has most of the time anyway, so I don’t see it reducing air flow any. The one exception to that may be when your just edge trimming, then the stock insert really helps and I’ll put it in if I have edge trimming to do. I should mention I also have an overarm dust pickup, that really helped with the dust in the shop.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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