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Used my Chicago sprayer today

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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 05-19-2012 04:00 PM 917 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


05-19-2012 04:00 PM

This is a huge time saver. It took less than 2 minutes to spar my Adirondack chair this morning. The HF Chicago sprayer worked like a champ.
I did have just a few minor runs which I was able to dab with a shop cloth before they ran, they were gathering to run.
I cleaned it with some cold water, just run a couple of cups through the nozzle and your done.
I may switch to the smallest nozzle just to see if I get a bit more control, there are a lot of corners and tight places which are hard to get a coat on without getting too much on the other pieces.

I may just spray the tight places first before the long pieces from now on.

There wasn’t much aerosol in the air afterward either.

I may do one more light coat of spar tomorrow if it needs it, but the way it looks I won’t have to.

This is a HUGE time saver compared to 2 hours with a foam brush.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


17 replies so far

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waho6o9

7172 posts in 2039 days


#1 posted 05-19-2012 04:17 PM

HVLP totally rocks, and the clean up goes quickly. I’m glad it worked out for you Russell.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#2 posted 05-19-2012 04:39 PM

I thought you were spraying Oil base material ? If you are you want to clean your gun with Mineral spirits .

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#3 posted 05-19-2012 04:43 PM

I decided to go with a water based finish, it’s easier to clean and a bit less toxic.

Hard to see, but it looks really good and even.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#4 posted 05-19-2012 04:45 PM

I like water base too ,looks very well done.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#5 posted 05-19-2012 04:48 PM

Jim, I think the back brace where all those screws are going into, need to be a 2by from now on. The complex angle makes it very hard to keep the screws from poking out in a 1by. If you keep the screws flush with the back of the chair, the angle is too steep and I’d have to use shorter screws which makes me afraid it would come apart too easily.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#6 posted 05-19-2012 04:51 PM

Have you thought about counter sinking them and using plugs ?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#7 posted 05-19-2012 04:58 PM

No, but I have thought about fastening them from behind instead of from the front. That brace across the back is one of the most frustrating pieces to make in the whole project and I need to come up with a standardized way to make it. It’s a compound bs cut, but depending on the chair back material, 4” or 6” the cut is always different. My wife told me to not obsess about it because it’s “just outdoor furniture”, lol.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#8 posted 05-19-2012 05:09 PM

A couple of other ideas, you could drill all the way through and have nuts and washers on the bottom or go ahead and use the smaller screws and put a dab of construction adhesive under each one or just use some stainless steel finish nails and construction adhesive.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#9 posted 05-19-2012 05:13 PM

I’ve hesitated using glue for fear that it would crack if the chair was flexed. It does have some play which is good, not much though. I think I might try the 2by idea and just use the caps like you suggested on the back side. I hate seeing the screws and it would shorten the time to make it plus it would look much better.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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waho6o9

7172 posts in 2039 days


#10 posted 05-19-2012 05:21 PM

Carriage bolts maybe?

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#11 posted 05-19-2012 05:27 PM

Sounds good ,but I would be concerned about a little dab of construction adhesive under each slat I have a unfiished cedar bench thats been out side for 6-7 years with with out and problems.

Edit
I meant to say I would NOT be concerned.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#12 posted 05-19-2012 05:31 PM

It’s super hard to get the back of the chair to meet the brace flush or I would likely use a bit of glue. The process of clamping the backs in place while I square it all up is tedious at best. Maybe if I glued them up I could just let that dry and then be able to at least move the chair around while I’m assembling. It’s a learning curve for sure, but I’m almost at the top of it.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#13 posted 05-19-2012 05:33 PM

I also designed the cedar chair to have some braces under the seat. The cedar flexes a bit and that worries me, so the 2by adds stability and insures no one will break one of the seat slats. Cedar is so light weight, I cant believe how light this chair is compared to the pine prototypes.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#14 posted 05-19-2012 06:06 PM

It’s great to make a quality piece of furniture and getting all the details right ,it makes a big difference. You know Construction adhesive(the stuff in tubes” liquid nails”) is a lot thicker than most regular glues and very strong I use it in out door construction all the time, just a little pea size dab makes for great insurance. As far as the flex in the seat is concerned I wouldn’t sweat that, my bench has 1/2” WRC with about a 30” span ,I’ve had some 350lbers set on it no problems. Your 1”material should do fine. when I install slats I clamp and connect them one at a time.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1748 days


#15 posted 05-19-2012 06:08 PM

Jim, what do you think about making them from white pine. If they are sealed properly, will they last as long as cedar? I think pine is a more uniform wood and with Neil’s conditioner, it looks great when it’s stained.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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