New bandsaw user could use some help

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Forum topic by Iggles88 posted 05-16-2012 10:14 PM 2135 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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247 posts in 2560 days

05-16-2012 10:14 PM

Hey all, I just received my bandsaw today. I set it up and everything was going great the wheels were aligned perfectly the blade ran true and I had it tensioned what I thought was perfectly. Soared the first test run I went back to my manual to finish up any other adjustments and the manual told me that the tensioning adjustments weren’t done yet. So it said to Loosen the tension until the blade started fluttering? Well from my eyes it didn’t look to be fluttering so I kept loosening and (this is completely my fault I should have known to stop but nothing I can do now) the blade popped off the wheels. I scrambled to turn the tool off so I didn’t notice what actually happened to the saw but when I went to retighten the tension the gauge was completely messed up and the quick release lever wouldn’t spin all the way to the right. Hopefully you can see my frustration by now. My first bandsaw had a ton of excitement actually had everything going great and one mistake ruins everything but anyway back to what happened. I played with the tensioning Knob and it still tensions but the gauge doesn’t read right the little window where you can see the red gauge and the blade widths shows nothing the red tensioning indicator is hidden below the window now. But however like I said it still tensioned and let the tension out of the blade so I tried to turn the quick release lever to put the full tension back into the blade and it wouldn’t spin all the way it kept hitting the upper wheel housing somehow that must have spun and now won’t lock into place. I kept trying to put the blade on the crown of the tire and check but it wasn’t tracking right so I played with the tracking adjuster and got it to track right in the center. Sorry about the long post but 1. Do you think I should send it back and just get a new one and 2. Since I got the blade tracking right does that mean that the wheels have to be coplanar? Because something tells me that got knocked out of calibration too but I’m not sure how it would track true if that did happen. Again sorry about the long ramble. I am horrible at explaining things especially about something I don’t exactly understand. If anyone can decipher what I was trying to say and give me some advice it would be greatly appreciated I do not want to be out 700 dollars because of that mistake

13 replies so far

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13640 posts in 3540 days

#1 posted 05-16-2012 10:30 PM

please give some specs on the saw itself

from your description
it sounds like the little gauge thing
is not in the right thread place
on the adjustment bolt
it may be reading
just not in the window area

it may need to be treaded further up (or down)the shaft

(this is all theoretical
as i don’t know anything about your particular saw)

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Iggles88's profile


247 posts in 2560 days

#2 posted 05-16-2012 10:48 PM

I have the new grizzly 0555lx. Cast iron wheels, I think exactly the same thing I think it’s working it’s just not reading in the little window. My main concern however is the fact that the quick release tension lever will not lock into place, it bangs into the upper wheel housing before being able to lock down. The main problem I have with this whole thing is why did my blade stop tracking correctly after that happened. I’m worried about the wheels not being coplanar I really didn’t want to have to make adjustments to a brand new saw. Hopefully I won’t have to I’m just trying to figure out the reasons for this stuff as I do not have the answers yet.

View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2485 days

#3 posted 05-16-2012 11:09 PM

Looks like grizzly took a HF Central Machine, tricked up the table and marked it up $300. At least the main part of the saw came assembled, (I hope).
It’s a good machine, but I can’t understand what happened to yours by the description.
Belt tentioning is pretty easy, I just almost compress the spring and make sure there is no more than 1/4 inch play in the blade.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View 47phord's profile


182 posts in 2436 days

#4 posted 05-16-2012 11:20 PM

Are the tires still on the wheels? And if so, are they on straight? If a tire popped off, it could cause the blade to not track correctly.

View Iggles88's profile


247 posts in 2560 days

#5 posted 05-16-2012 11:37 PM

Yea the tires are still on the wheels. I think what may have happened is that by trying to fix the fact that I couldn’t lock the tension lever in place I moved the tracking knob knocking it out of calibration but I worked on it for about an hour to get it back in line and could not find the spot. Now like I said I had a couple of tries where the blade tracked perfectly and I ran a test run it went fine. The fact that the tensioning gauge is no use to me right now isn’t going to work because I’m going to be changing blades and I’ll need to retention for the different blades. Also I know there has to be a fix for the quick release lever, it literally spins fine but can’t finish the rotation because it bangs into the housing. I’m not sure if when the blade came off the wheels it changed something but I’m just confused as to how it would do that much damage. It was on for about 2 seconds off the wheels. I know inside the housings and the wheels could have gotten messed up but doesn’t make sense that something behind the wheel housing would get completely ruined

View mark4345's profile


71 posts in 2622 days

#6 posted 05-17-2012 12:04 AM

did you possibly loosen it so much that youve threaded the shaft attached to that knob completely off?
sounds like the spring in there is pushing the wheel all the way up if its hitting the housing as you say…this tells me the tension knob is too loose still or the shaft is threaded out.

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247 posts in 2560 days

#7 posted 05-17-2012 12:09 AM

No that’s not it because the tension knob still changes the tension it’s just not in the same spot that it was when I first set the saw up its lower below the little window. And when the quick release lever is off (no tension) it swings or should swing all the way to the left but it will only go about 3/4 of the way which is causing the lever when I turn it to the right to not be able to turn the full range of motion because the housing is just in the way

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247 posts in 2560 days

#8 posted 05-17-2012 12:48 AM

<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC ”-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN” “”>
<html> <head> <meta /> <title>g0555LX_m.pdf</title> </head> <body> <div title=”Page 5” class=”page”>


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247 posts in 2560 days

#9 posted 05-17-2012 12:50 AM That’s the link to the manual if you look at the parts page in the beginning of it you’ll get a better idea of what I am talking about

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2889 days

#10 posted 05-17-2012 01:44 AM

Have you called the tech guys at Grizzly? They have been very good to me. I even had one guy stay on the phone and talk me through a problem tracking a 1/8” blade.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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247 posts in 2560 days

#11 posted 05-17-2012 02:02 AM

I haven’t called yet, I had to run from the shop and since it’s notatmy house I didn’t see a point in calling until I can be main question though is does the fact that the blade is tracking correctly mean that the wheels are definitely coplanar. I have to assume it means they are but don’t know for sure

View BilltheDiver's profile


260 posts in 3084 days

#12 posted 05-17-2012 04:15 AM

Incorrect blade tracking does not mean the wheels are not coplanar. Especially if the tension is questionable. The only true way to test for coplaner wheels is to run a straight edge so that it touches the top and bottom of both wheels at the same time to see if they are truly aligned. I think it is unlikely that a blade coming off the wheels would have enough force to mis align the wheels. As others suggested I think you need to call Grizzly. I’m betting you simply loosened it too much and the indicator fell off. Remember those indicators are notoriously inaccurate in any case.

-- "Measure twice, cut once, count fingers"

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David Craig

2137 posts in 3308 days

#13 posted 05-17-2012 08:53 AM

Trying to picture the issue, all theoretical but here goes -

The tracking gauge on the window is actually a nut that holds the tension arm in place. When it disappears outside the window, the nut is actually almost completely off. This causes the wheels to drop considerably and the bandsaw blade to slip. The tension bar won’t tighten because the wheels are dropped too low. I think the reason why you didn’t see flutter when performing the flutter test is because you didn’t move the guides all the way out. This needs to be done as well as removing the insert, in order to see flutter to determine proper tension. I think if you just work on tensioning back the blade, the nut will pop back into view in the window and the wheels will get back into position. You will have a bit of tensioning to do so you will have to turn the knob a number of times.

I hope this helps,


-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

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