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Forum topic by USCJeff posted 583 days ago 331 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites
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USCJeff

815 posts in 607 days


583 days ago

I was a genious and left my scroll saw in the trunk of my car for a long time and finally got it out to realize that the table was nearly covered in rust. I use a “Slip-It” (I think that’s the name) to treat my tablesaw every couple weeks and that does OK. I live in a humid area and my shop is in a garage so I have moisture issues. How would you all go about preventing rust? What product and how often works for you? Also, what is your procedure for removing rust from cast iron. I tried WD-40 and muscle power, but it didn’t do much. I only get in the shop once or twice a week at best, so I can’t treat the tools more frequently than that. Thanks.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

View Mike Lingenfelter's profile

Mike Lingenfelter

403 posts in 652 days


583 days ago

I use WD40 and fine wet/dry sandpaper to dress my cast iron tops. After they have been dressed then apply a coat of T9-Boeshield to the surface and let it dry over night. The Boeshield will dry kind of tacking. I buff it off the next day, and apply wax to the surface. I’ve never had a problem with rust and it last a long time.

Mike

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

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WayneC

5684 posts in 636 days


583 days ago

Ditto. Same process as Mike. Sometimes I use sanding blocks.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

815 posts in 607 days


582 days ago

Thanks. That seems to be the consensus from a few other resources I tapped with this question. This looks like a good procedure to prevent rust issues, but what about rust removal? Will the WD-40/Fine sandpaper remove existing rust? Would you use a ROS to sand the surface or arm power? Thanks again Wayne/Mike.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

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dbriski

22 posts in 594 days


580 days ago

The company that makes Boeshield also makes a rust remover, it stinks but it works, just don’t let the stuff dry on the surface. I also took a scotch bright pad and stuck it to my ROS and used that to work the stuborn stuff off. Then treat as suggested above.

-- David, www.briskibusiness.com

View Mike Lingenfelter's profile

Mike Lingenfelter

403 posts in 652 days


580 days ago

I’ve never had to deal with heavy rust. The light rust I had on my table saw came off with a bit of hand sanding with a sanding block.

Mike

-- http://theinquisitivewoodworker.com/

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

815 posts in 607 days


569 days ago

An update on my rust issue that’s no longer an issue. I bought a Bosch 1295DVS RO Sander after seeing that it was rated the top RO by a couple magazines I get. I used a finish sander prior to this purchase. Anyways, I bought a rust removal disk for the sander. I put a generous coat of WD-40 and let it sit for a few. I used the sander w/ disk and all is well again. It took little effort as the sander did the work. It didn’t scratch or marr the surface in any way. Looks good. Now I will implement the treatment procedure you all suggested.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

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oscorner

4573 posts in 849 days


569 days ago

I use Johnson’s floor wax to protect my tools and it has performed flawlessly. I also use wax paper for a quick touch up and it makes my jointer, hand plane and tablesaw tables slick.

-- Jesus is Lord!

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