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Forum topic by Charlie posted 05-12-2012 05:30 PM 1524 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2525 days

05-12-2012 05:30 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Please be gentle. I’m new at planer-ing :)

I have about 50bd ft of maple to run through the planer. Boards vary in length but are generally 8 to 10 footers. Planer is a DW 734.

Do you make stands or tables for infeed/outfeed or do you just feed them in and when they’re half way, go ‘round the other end and catch ‘em? The longest length I’m going to need is about 70 inches (so, less than 6 feet).
So make supports or catch ‘em by hand?

Also…. the planer leaves an awesomely smooth finish …. like glass smooth …. and this is going to be painted. I know, but it’s for SWMBO so I’m doin’ it. I’m thinking I should sand them before painting them just to give the paint something to stick to. They’re that slick…. well if you have a planer then you already know what I’m describing…

So am I right that they should get sanded first?

10 replies so far

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 3701 days

#1 posted 05-12-2012 05:36 PM

I will usually just walk around and support the board on the exit of the planer, being very careful not to LIFT the board as it exits. If you lift the board you could incur some snipping on the end. As for sanding, a quick once over with 150 grit should be sufficient. The planer will leave small marks that could possibly show up after finishing. The easiest way to tell is wipe the board with some mineral spirits after planing and see if there are left over planer marks. The mineral spirits will dry quickly and not interfere with the final finish.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View ShaneA's profile


7064 posts in 2837 days

#2 posted 05-12-2012 05:41 PM

I catch mine by hand, but it is due to space limitations. If i had more room it would be nice to have some sort of outfeed support.

I would probably sand them as well, my planer blades usually leave fine lines I would want removed for best results. Good luck.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2525 days

#3 posted 05-12-2012 05:53 PM

On short boards tested after setup, same maple, about 3 and 4 foot, I get no snipe at all. I’m guessing though that even if I get a little at each end on these long boards, overall it will still be less wasteful than cutting them shorter first.

Planer is new. No fine lines in the boards I passed through it for testing.
Oh, “testing” hell… I just wanted to RUN the darn thing! I think it’s going to see a lot of use. :)

View 40Grit's profile


10 posts in 2444 days

#4 posted 05-12-2012 05:56 PM

I have the same planer and do the walk around since my planer is on a mobile base. I don’t have dedicated infeed/outfeed tables.

I would think minor sanding would be all you would need for paint to adhere.

View longgone's profile


5688 posts in 3547 days

#5 posted 05-12-2012 06:22 PM

When I plane boards I always butt the next board up against the tail end of the board currently going through the planer. This most always eliminates any snipe. I never paint wood but I imagine you would like it as smooth as possible just as you would if applying a finish such as varnish, lacquer etc.

What exactly is a SWMBO? I guess I don’t keep up with all the latest slang and fads.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2525 days

#6 posted 05-12-2012 06:32 PM

SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2137 posts in 3347 days

#7 posted 05-12-2012 06:33 PM

I have a Ridgid planer but the concept would be the same. I have an outfeed roller on a stand that I setup to catch the board as it comes out. This gives it a little boost. This helps elminate snip, but also gives it some support so I don’t have to race to the other end to catch the board.

-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View patron's profile


13641 posts in 3580 days

#8 posted 05-12-2012 07:36 PM

catch the board
if you don’t have room for stands and such

long boards can make the planer fall over
from cantilever weight shift
especially if it is on a stand with wheels

congrats on the new tool

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5149 posts in 4199 days

#9 posted 05-12-2012 07:43 PM

I have the 733. I lift the trailing end on entry and lift the leading end on exit. This takes the “leverage” off the planer’s rollers on entry and exit thus liminating snipe as best as can be for a lunchbox planer. Also, ya SURE don’t want that machine tipping while running.
Just my way, but what do I know (except 15 years of planing on this puppy).
I’m not talkin’ about a bunch of lift. Just enough to relieve the pressure.
I do use roller stands as an aid.


View OldMarine's profile


70 posts in 2511 days

#10 posted 05-12-2012 09:02 PM

I got a 734 six weeks ago to plane some myrtlewood I bought. I picked up a roller stand for $15 at HF.

If the board is over 3 feet I use the stand at the outfeed. No snipe.

-- Jim, Southern Oregon

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