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Forum topic by Garyb6 posted 62 days ago 190 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites
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Garyb6

156 posts in 73 days


62 days ago

What glue do you use for complicated glue-ups that require an extended assembly time?

-- Garyb6, Hampton, VA

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bhack

106 posts in 163 days


62 days ago

I use Titebond III. Seems to be workable for quite some time. Titebond II sets real fast.

-- Bill - If I knew GRANDKIDS were so much fun I would have had them first.

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teenagewoodworker

1932 posts in 211 days


62 days ago

titebond is what i use for all glue ups. haven’t had many really complicated glue ups though. i know David Marks uses plastic resin glue for complicated glue ups.

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stanley2

177 posts in 238 days


62 days ago

On projects such as multi-panel doors, I use 24 hour epoxy. Lots of open time, which makes the tedious job of gluing up a much more relaxing part of the project. Otherwise I use Titebond III.

-- Phil in British Columbia

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sIKE

441 posts in 196 days


62 days ago

I use Titebond III, just be aware of how well it bonds and that it is a pain to clean up the squeeze out. Just finished assembling 10 drawer for my miter bench.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

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Grumpy

4800 posts in 293 days


62 days ago

TightbondIII, I know David Marks uses the 24hr epoxy. If you nood a lot of time the 24 hour epoxy seems the go.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Loren's profile

Loren

134 posts in 90 days


61 days ago

White glue. White has a longer working time than
Yellow Aliphatic resin glue.

I use white glue for joinery. Elmer’s is fine.

For veneering or other applications where “creep” is
a factor I use Plastic resin glue – Weldwood, comes
powered and you mix it up with water.

I think white glue dries more brittle than yellow. Yellow
has a tendency to squeeze out over time along glue lines
causing a rough finish.

I haven’t used 24 hour epoxy. When doing complex
glue-ups I’ve sometimes felt in over my head but I
haven’t had a disaster yet. The main thing is to be prepared
and know if you have the strength to complete the glue-up
by yourself.

Pieces sometimes get heavy during assembly and need to
be flipped over. Try to think through those weight issues
so you don’t blow your back out.

-- Need help with marketing your business? Look in my profile.

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bbqking

179 posts in 166 days


61 days ago

Use hide glue. You can buy it from Rocklers or wherever. It has an extended setup time and cures to psi ranges above most glues. It is actually a TiteBond product, also. If you use hide glue, it does not run and drip like other glues. I started using it in the past, and now use it all the time. It stays where you put it. You may also want to look at gluing up sub assemblies to make your life easier. Unsolicited advice, but hide glue is the way to go for big time glue ups. As always, bbqKing

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

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Garyb6

156 posts in 73 days


61 days ago

Thanks everyone. I used Titebond III. It worked well. I may also try hide glue in the future. I have to order it though. No sources close by.

-- Garyb6, Hampton, VA

View Blake's profile

Blake

1874 posts in 317 days


61 days ago

I just used Titebond III for assembling my sewing machine table. It had the working time I needed to get the glue on all faces of the joinery, assemble all the parts, and knock everything into alignment with a dead blow hammer.

-- Dust collectors suck.

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