titebond is what i use for all glue ups. haven't had many really complicated glue ups though. i know David Marks uses plastic resin glue for complicated glue ups.
On projects such as multi-panel doors, I use 24 hour epoxy. Lots of open time, which makes the tedious job of gluing up a much more relaxing part of the project. Otherwise I use Titebond III.
I use Titebond III, just be aware of how well it bonds and that it is a pain to clean up the squeeze out. Just finished assembling 10 drawer for my miter bench.
White glue. White has a longer working time than
Yellow Aliphatic resin glue.
I use white glue for joinery. Elmer's is fine.
For veneering or other applications where "creep" is
a factor I use Plastic resin glue - Weldwood, comes
powered and you mix it up with water.
I think white glue dries more brittle than yellow. Yellow
has a tendency to squeeze out over time along glue lines
causing a rough finish.
I haven't used 24 hour epoxy. When doing complex
glue-ups I've sometimes felt in over my head but I
haven't had a disaster yet. The main thing is to be prepared
and know if you have the strength to complete the glue-up
by yourself.
Pieces sometimes get heavy during assembly and need to
be flipped over. Try to think through those weight issues
so you don't blow your back out.
Use hide glue. You can buy it from Rocklers or wherever. It has an extended setup time and cures to psi ranges above most glues. It is actually a TiteBond product, also. If you use hide glue, it does not run and drip like other glues. I started using it in the past, and now use it all the time. It stays where you put it. You may also want to look at gluing up sub assemblies to make your life easier. Unsolicited advice, but hide glue is the way to go for big time glue ups. As always, bbqKing
I just used Titebond III for assembling my sewing machine table. It had the working time I needed to get the glue on all faces of the joinery, assemble all the parts, and knock everything into alignment with a dead blow hammer.
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