New to me G1023 (1989 I think) needs some love.....and I need advice.

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Forum topic by TraveledSome posted 05-11-2012 03:09 AM 6858 views 1 time favorited 31 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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30 posts in 2416 days

05-11-2012 03:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: g1023 grizzly 1989 riving splitter gears rust wax mineral oil recondition retrofit miter gauge dust v belt belts twisted replacement parts lubricant fixing bork uhmw fence facing

Okay for those of you who helped me on original post looking for a saw thank you. Now that I have this baby though I am having to wait awhile before I can get garage rewired by electrician friend of mine….that’s okay though, because i have ALOT to do. At $450 I think my G1023 is a steal….but it does need some love as I knew it would.

First the saw:

It doesn’t actually give model number anywhere on it, the only info is on motor:

It says it was built in 1989…( I cut picture due to serial number, a habit from firearm forums where posting serials is a no no, it may not be as big of an issue with tools, but I’m used to not showing em)

This is the 2hp Air Filtration system I bought at the same time for $200, as it seemed a good deal. It is misisng switch though he just turned it on and off with shop breaker box, I have no such dedicated breaker for garage though so I’ll have to find another hook up method to turn on and off without having to unplug it everytime.

My issues:

1. The Surface, the simple…...or at least I hope it to be simple reconditioning the table…

My plan…

From various places I have read to first wipe it down and scrub with the scotchbrite pads with Mineral Oil as a Lubricant, and once i finish that, to use paste wax all over and let sit awhile, and then buff it out with cloth.. (what no top coat?) Anyway that is my plan…...thoughts? Suggestions? Also would using an orbital sander with the scotch-brite pads be too much? There’s no real pitting that I can see this is mostly just to prevent further oxidation, for protection….and because I love it so…..

2. Belts….

Reading online further confused me didn’t realize how many options there were, so please give me your thoughts on which type of belts, specific brand and good place to buy also, as well as why those belts? Twisted? Linked? Should I replace Pully’s? Any advice on this would be appreciated. This Grizzly TS is mightier than I R knowledgable.

3. The Fence.....I was originally going to replace fence, but honestly the cast gut of fence is nice and heavy and locks down well…it’s just the facing needs replacing….

I am thinking of ordering this and removing plywood all together… 3/4” X 4”X 48 ” Sheet

I would of course sink screws but it would leave small holes….

What do you think? Better option? Reason for keeping plywood backing and using thinner material? I really know nothing just looking around at options but this would make it more like modern fences I see.

4. Gears, Trunnions etc….

When I got it it was full of dust….guess that Air Filtration system didn’t work all that well…or at least not as he had it set up.

Cleaned up….

Okay there’s a decent amount of oxidation but the wheels turn whithout any major hang up, I suppose they could be smoother but not by much.

Truthfully I hate to monkey with this too much as I am not sure I can get it back right….does it need cleaning? Can I just lube it up a bit and go? Or do I need to clean and oil? do I need to get oxidation off? best way without disassembling? Any advice here….I have never worked on anything on this level….closes thing was a cast smoker and I wasn’t afraid to go crazy there with navel Jelly and a sander as well.. This is something I don’t want to mess up.

5. Splitter. This saw also has NO splitter or riving knife. The professional carpenter we hired for some work in nursery scoffs at this as he hates them and says he just has table waxed and pushes quickly, and it will either go through or knock him out and he hasn’t been knocked out yet….I am not quite as experienced though and have memories of that little accident I had in my dad’s garge and impaling a piece of wood in the wall and that was with a smaller tabletop craftsman…... so best options? Why?

I was thinking of going here:

And getting the Bork

6. Blades

Okay in my first post I got a great deal of info on this from “knotscott”

Thank you…. I think currently I may just get a Inifinity like he mentioned..

it’s $99 on their site and Amazon is sold out… there an equal option at lower price? Also anywhere better to buy? Would I do better to have a couple of cheaper blades in different configs? If I pony up a for this one it will be awhile before I could get another.

7. Miter Guage, Blade guard, Dust collection? Trap Door?

The Miter Guage is missing, I am currently planning on getting replacement cast iron one from Grizzly unless someone can give me a good reason to get another…...might as well get what I want now since I don’t have one for it….

Plastic guard above blade? Useful? Not sure if one comes for Bork? Also have seen set up with seperate dust collection knozzle there….worth setting up? or in the way?

Trap Door is missing. The previous owner had just put the air filtration tube inside hole. Which I imagine did not make a really good seal and remove dust well… there a trap door made to fit tube tightly? Where can i get one?

8. What is the newbie forgetting?

What have I not looked at that I should be looking at? I got time, no 220 wire yet, and weeks before I will have one… do I get my baby ship shape? Any other pics that would help? Remember while I have done some work in dad’s garage growing up, and certainly read quite a bit in books and online before embaring on this, I am a real newb….don’t for a moment count on me already knowing much of anything! :D

Thanks all!!!

(BTW I do realize I still need to make measurements and adjustments, but until I get the above taken care of seems sort of ahead of the game…)

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

31 replies so far

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2485 days

#1 posted 05-11-2012 10:08 AM

I wouldn’t worry too much about the thin, even, layer of oxidation on some of the parts under the table. You can clean them up since you have time, but it’s really not hurting anything.

If you want to get several blades, go on eBay and buy some Onsrud blades. I have a few and usually get them for around $22 to $25 each. They are easily comparable to the blades you spend $100 or $120 for.

I’m not familiar with all of the Grizzly models, but for dust collection, that little trap door is the least of your worries. You need a motor cover. :)

Get an after-market miter gauge. The ones that come with the saw typically aren’t very good.

You can probably get the belts at an automotive store, BUT make sue you tell them you need a MATCHED SET for a multibelt drive. The numbers on the belts will probably give you the information you need as far as what PROFILE you need. The “V” in those v-belts may be a slightly different shape from the “V” in an automotive belt. The slant on the sides of the belt have to match the slant on the pulleys. The fact that I can read the writing on your current belts suggests they may not be all that old. Get the information on what the CORRECT belts are, but I’d move replacing all the belts a little lower on the list of things to do.

View knotscott's profile


8146 posts in 3574 days

#2 posted 05-11-2012 11:23 AM

A lot of this is subjective, but here are my thoughts:

1. Your current plan looks good and should work, but if you get impatient, switching to fine sandpaper and progressing through finer grits will be faster than a Scotchbrite.

2. Those belts actually look pretty good….it’s possible they’ve been replaced before. Now’s a good time to do it, but you find that you don’t NEED to right away unless they’ve taken a set and thump/vibrate too much.

3. Good.

4. Don’t really know what’s “best”, but I’d likely just use a non-dust attracting lube like your paste wax applied with a tooth brush, or spray on white lithium grease that dries like wax. Adding grease or wet lubes can attract saw dust.

5. A splitter or riving knife is one of the most effective safety devices you can use IMO. I really like my BORK and initially thought it would fit your saw, but after seeing the pic, it might be old enough that I’m no longer positive it well. The pic you showed of the swingarm doesn’t look like it leaves a place to fasten the BORK. My advice is to send the pic to Bob Ross at, and check with him….I’ve found him to be pretty responsive to questions and input in general (you can link this discussion for him to view the pic, or ask for his email). The MJ Splitter is a less expensive, less elegant alternative, but would require you to make a new insert or two. Others may have insights on other splitters that will fit, and you might even find a stock guard somewhere.

6. Which way to go with saw blades is also subjective, and is really a personal decision. The Infinity Super General that you linked to is the cleanest cutting of the 40T general purpose blades I’ve used to date, but that doesn’t necessarily make it the best overall choice for your needs. The Freud Fusion is the most similar of the blades I’m familiar with, and you might find it for $10 or $20 less, but there are no real big savings there. Using high quality separate dedicated blades will each do a better job of their respective tasks, but require blade changes for each task, and require a separate cash outlay for each blade. The Onsrud blades were a great deal, but the selection has dwindled a lot. Going with something like the Delta 35-7657 for < $30 shipped or the Onsrud 30T Glue Line Ripper should open up funds to add something like a nice 80T fine crosscut/ply Hi-ATB or ATB blade (ie: Infinity 010-080, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10 (this is a pretty nice deal on an 80T Freud LU85 ATB blade @ $58 shipped…normally ~ $90, only 2 available). But as stated, it really depends on what you’ll be cutting.

7. The Incra V27 is one of the best values in good aftermarket miter gauges. You’ll want to buy a crosscut fence for it, or build one from scraps (easy). Adding a motor door will help the dust collection a lot… or build.

You’ve given this a lot of thought, and are definitely on the right track IMO.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2416 days

#3 posted 05-12-2012 02:08 AM

(Charlie said, “I’m not familiar with all of the Grizzly models, but for dust collection, that little trap door is the least of your worries. You need a motor cover. :)”)

LOL Yeah well see this is what happens when you have no actual time to touch or caress your saw and instead are just thinking about it while slaving in your cubicle all day… soon as I got the e-mail forward of your response, I was like I really am sort of a dolt. I kinda was forgetting about the missing wall I was so preoccupied about the hole in the door so to speak.

Hmm so is this a good idea to make an insert for motor side? This is more my thing:) Computer Case modding I know….!Would there be advers effect though of sealing cabinet? and then using filtration system to pull all air? That likely would include pulling air THROUGH the motor though I’m worried that could be an issue… Is this done?

Also on belts I need to use better camera then Iphone I was hoping it would show but it didn’t. Yes you can see lettering on belts but you can’t see they literally have misisng chunks out of them. They do have to go. Personally I would rather upgrade the belts if possible if they can retain the same performance and not strain motor is there something a bit tougher? I read somehwere cogged belts are better? Are not all the belths “cogged”? Also Ho do I figure out my belt size does not say in G1023 manual I pulled from Grizzly site.

It’s easy to give it lots of thought when thinking about your saw is about all your able to do. Now that I got it I been so busy I can’t even play with it. :(

Keep it coming!!! I am making notes of everything!

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile


8146 posts in 3574 days

#4 posted 05-12-2012 03:52 AM

It’s not a bad idea to take a belt with you into an old time automotive or radiator shop. If that’s not feasible, you could always call the Grizzly tech line and ask…they’d like even have some for sale.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2416 days

#5 posted 05-12-2012 08:54 PM

Ya know it occurs to me maybe that person who said Mineral Oil…..meant “Mineral Spirits” for cleaning top…...hmm

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile


8146 posts in 3574 days

#6 posted 05-12-2012 09:45 PM

”Ya know it occurs to me maybe that person who said Mineral Oil…..meant “Mineral Spirits” for cleaning top……hmm”

....LOL, might as well try butter!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3784 days

#7 posted 05-12-2012 10:05 PM

That’s a nice looking saw.Both stable and heavy enough for what you put to it.I personally woluld do what I call (give the saw it’s birthday present) and spend a little cash and make it like new.Those plastic strips for the fence can be bought at least here in the uk from catering suppliers used as cutting boards a while back I have a bit of it but too far away to be of any use to you.Have fun Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View BorkBob's profile


127 posts in 2891 days

#8 posted 05-13-2012 02:37 AM

knotscott…you should recognize that arbor bracket below the BORK picture. It’s a Craftsman 22114. I don’t know where the pic came from but I took it…lol.

The arbor brackets on the 1023 series saws are very similar to those found on Unisaws.

-- Please Pray for Our Troops / Semper Fi / Bob Ross /

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2416 days

#9 posted 05-13-2012 05:10 AM

That pic was from the Bork website seemed to be example of fitting it on? I guess I linked wrong one. I removed it as I think it was an example of how it could not fit on some saws…heh. Sorry for confusion….Anyway finally may get to work on cleaning tomorrow. Cherry Kool-Aid and Vinager I think is my choice…. :D

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2416 days

#10 posted 05-19-2012 03:46 PM

The project pushes ahead…...question Which mobile base system do you guys recommend? I know in past the Delta one was mentioned. Is this any better then base system from Grizzly? Are there any others I should look at? I have a cramped garage, I need mobility!!!!

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View chrisstef's profile


17761 posts in 3205 days

#11 posted 06-24-2012 08:41 PM

I just bought the same saw, well put a deposit on it until i can get a truck on Friday … how do you like it so far? Mine looks to be around the same vintage and priced similarly. As far as mobility, id consider buying some castors and building your own base.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2416 days

#12 posted 10-20-2012 05:08 AM


Okay well, I have to embarrassingly say, that in the last 6 months I have not done much more then when i last posted. I was not wired for 220, as it turns out I need to replace service pannelin house, and main box outside as well….also I have had a heck of a year with work and baby…..but I should be wired up by next week in what is pretty much rewiring my entire house. So I’m off to finish up restoration of saw this weekend. Turns out not all the gunk I still had in saw was saw dust. Apparently previous owner had a colony of dirt dobbers in his shop or the saw was left outside…..either way the trunnions work much better without muddy bug cement over everything…..

The motor rotates very free and spins a bit when I turn it and let go….the arbor turns freely but not as smooth as I would like, and I have decided there’s no better time then now to replace arbor bearings as it just feels like it’s less then what I would like turning. There’s n orough spots or rubbing but it certainly doesn’t keep spinning no matter how hard I spin em…and it may just need cleaning up but…I’m gonna get new bearings…

I am not willing to wait for ordering them however, I’d like to do this, THIS weekend. Plus I don’t really have a bearings puller or press and know I’ll have a really hard time getting to inner bearings. Though saw a neat video that just used rubber mallet, block of wood with hole, and a old copper pipe to slip around and use to hammer wood down on bearing…... I already have the arbor out of saw completely, but I have thus far been unsuccessful at removing the nut on back end to even get to bearings. Having a 1” wrench would help as a cresent just doesn’t work. and I have generous amount of break free working on it now, as I sweated for quite awhile trying to get it off. Any tips on this? Found a how to video for a old delta restoration and this is pretty much identical…..but while he just does a simple twist mine won’t come off for nothing. Any tips?

Also where might I look to get decent bearings and pref a place that could use press on installing on a Saturday? Or am I dreaming? If I have to wait till week and take a long lunch I can, but I really would like to have this baby to go before monday as that is when electricians may be coming.

Also I have the UHMW panel from peachtree, and thoughts on best way to mount? just counter sink and mount on and test for needed shims?

I decided to get that Super General 40T when it was on sale on Amazon, but realized now I got the .97 thin kerf insteadof 125….am I asking for trouble to use this for all purpose? I don’t plan on cutting much of anything thicker then 3-4 inches? It’s too late to return it now, but will having a thin kerf be an issue?

I have no splitter, but plan on buying the MJ Splitter ASAP, I am going to hold off on bork for now, but long term I really think I might prefer it.

So anyway where can I get arbor bearings, and better yet a place that may have a press for installing inner one.

How the heck do I get this end nut off?

Is there a particular bearing to look for as far as make?

Also on my to do list is a motor cover, (any suggestions? or just build one?)

Last I got some amazing results cleaning top of table saw with the citric acid pwder viniger mixture I made….that said I was sort of hurried and while I removed most all the rust I missed a couple of spots, and there was sort of dark areas I left on before I dried and waxed finished with that paste wax…...say I am OCD enough that it bugs me and I want to redo it completely…...what is best way to clean off paste wax and get bax to raw castiron? minieral spirits?

I’ll post more pics soon…...(sigh) I love the smell of breakfree on a Friday night…..

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View TraveledSome's profile


30 posts in 2416 days

#13 posted 10-20-2012 06:48 AM

Also maybe a stupid question….but can one upgrade a G1023 to a 5hp motor?

-- "People are eternally trying to walk out of difficulties, instead of trying to work out of them."

View knotscott's profile


8146 posts in 3574 days

#14 posted 10-20-2012 12:25 PM

If that Super General is still new in the package, Infinity just might let you exchange it if you pay shipping. Send them a note explaining your story and ask….I’ve found them to be pretty nice folks. If not, there shouldn’t be issue using the thin kerf blades unless you install a full kerf splitter….a splitter that’s wider than the blade will cause the workpiece to hang up mid-cut. The TK blades are a bit more prone to flexing, but a blade of that caliber shouldn’t have too much of a problem if the saw spins true unless you’re cutting something like mesquite.

Good luck!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Brickman's profile


51 posts in 2570 days

#15 posted 10-20-2012 05:37 PM

I essentially did the same thing you are doing with a Grizzly 1023Z. It purchased it of of Craigslist and have spent the last year getting it up to what I wanted. It was rusty and not set up very well. Here is what I have done so far:

1. Sanded the top and gave it a good coating of Boeshield to protect it. That was a messy job but got all of the rust cleaned off.

2. Took the top off and cleaned the inside out. It was still full of cosmoline and wood dust and the cranks would not work up or down. Lubed the works with a drying lube (can’t remember the name). Replaced the belts with the link belts as the belts were wore in an hopped like mad.

3. Leveled the tops so the wings were even with the main surface. This was pain as they are heavy. Made the miter slot parallel to the blade. Replaced the fence with a Vega 50” Pro fence. The original fence was not quite true as they used the fence rails to pick up and move the saw. Not very good for keeping everything plumb and square. The Vega was not that bad but I did have to fabricate a couple of brackets to get the power switch mounted and get the back rails to the correct height.

4. Purchased a BORK and a Sharkguard. I will use the Sharkguard as it is much heavier duty and I could flex my BORK if I pushed the wood through too fast. I will also probably get the Micro splitters as well.

I also would see little benefit to a 5 HP motor unless you were using a feeder to run stock through. My motor does not bog down at all and it is a 3 hp. So far I am happy with my saw. It was a bunch of work but I know how my saw is put together and how to adjust things.

-- Mark - Pueblo, Colorado

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