A Frame Swing Set

You can get the metal brackets or cut notches and use lag bolts. Just keep in mind the notches should not exceed ⅕ the thickness of the beam.

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

I suppose I would be giving up the ability to disassemble, but would Festool Sipo Domino’s be strong enough for the top brace.

Would 4×4 top beam be strong enough including adults or do I need to ply 2×6’s?

-- Andre, Great White North

I used store brought brackets from the hardware store (playground section). Work fine. I had a fort and two “A” frames. I do recommed it. The A frame is plenty strong. The beam was two 2×6 back to back bolted together (I supposed it could of been glued). The issue is the other direction. Since nothing is sink to the ground the fort has to be rigid as that allow the two A frame to hold.

I screw my kids’ playground together as cedar is expensisive. It paid off as, we moved. I was able to disassembled it and were able to move it. $750 and that was about 15 years ago.

I would post some pictures but I have recycled the lumber as my youngest is ih HS now.

-- I'll be a woodworker when I grow up. HHHOPKS

I’ve looked at the swing-n-slide and gorilla playsets hardware and neither looks overly secure but perhaps bulk does not add rigidity to the structure.

Assuming these are similar to what you purchased ‘back in the day’?

We have limited space so we are just doing to A frames – 2 swings inside frame, and single locations for climbing rope on the outside of the frame.

-- Andre, Great White North

The design on mine should comfortably hold 1000 lbs

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/64006

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

Thanks for the post Monte. What angle do you have the vertical angle do you have the A on?

-- Andre, Great White North

There’s a lot of movement stress on those joints, Andre. Once a glue joint loosens up, whatcha gonna do?

I’d vote for the bolts and brackets.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

So the only part I need to figure out is the proper way to do the joint between the two A frame members and the beam. Am I creating a tenon on the each of the two A members and the mortise in the beam?

Assuming this is as strong as the brackets, more cost effective, and cleaner look.

-- Andre, Great White North

I’d increase the beam to 6×6 if you’re going to use WRC. This will also give you more attachment area for the A frame, which should be bolted on and cut to surround as much of the 6×6 as possible. http://build-a-swingset.com/images/Free-Standing-A-Frame-Bra.jpg

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

You could use a 4×6 as the top beam and mortise in the A frame pieces.

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

Not sure I would be up for m&t for all these joints. Have to get it done relatively quickly and have no experience cutting them :)

Plan:

If top beam is 4×6 WRC and A frame legs are 4×4 WRC I’m cutting the legs at 60 degree top and then allowing for 1/2 the width of the beam so it sits on each leg and the the sides of each are flush with each other.

Where and how many lag bolts for this joint?

On the A frame, I would put a horizontal member between the two approx 1/2 way down.

Lateral rigidity from cross members between each leg and beam. Likely do these on the outside since we’re having over hang for climbing features.

-- Andre, Great White North