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Forum topic by Bill White posted 833 days ago 839 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bill White

3403 posts in 2585 days


833 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tip

I rehab a bunch of planes. All the usual de-rust, tune, sharpen, etc.
One tip I’ll pass is that about totes and knobs on the old Stanleys with the great rosewood.
Unless they are just plain (don’t go there) crap, I will get out the buffing wheel, load it with green buffing compound, and give ‘em a good buff. Then, a coat of paste wax will pull out the patina without messin’ with the look of the rosewood. I’ve even done the same with some of the other woods and plastic. Just gotta be carefull.
Some may want to refinish, but I find this process very acceptable for most user planes.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us


7 replies so far

View BubbaIBA's profile

BubbaIBA

200 posts in 1002 days


#1 posted 833 days ago

Bill,

For my user planes (most of ‘em, I’m not into trying to make new planes) I spend my time on cleaning, fretting, and sharpening. Unless the knob and/or tote are really abused, a good cleaning and BLO works for me, if I have to take it down for repair then shellac and BLO have been my go to. I’m a believer in the tool Hippocratic Oath, first do no harm.

Thanks for the tip…I’ll give it a try.

View Bill White's profile (online now)

Bill White

3403 posts in 2585 days


#2 posted 833 days ago

Bubba, I just finished one no name plane for a local. The wood was really in rough shape.
I applied 2 coats of BLO-letting ‘em soak over night (each). Then I refinished.
My post was for planes that were not in crappy shape. I will refinish in a minute if the wood is beyond rehab.
Just did one for my shop (thank you Mike in Baton Rouge) that had some green paint on the tote. It came off with just a touch of DNA. Buffed up, and looks great. Not new. It is an old plane.
Keep after it.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2378 days


#3 posted 833 days ago

Thanks Bill.

Any tips for a cheapo battery charger for electrolysis?

View ITnerd's profile

ITnerd

261 posts in 1224 days


#4 posted 833 days ago

Shipwreck – I think the cheapest one you can get with one of those meters is the best one. I picked up a schumacher dual rate on craigslist for 20 bucks, I think they are ~60 new at autozone.

The meter is nice because it helps you know if you have good contacts. The dual settings is handy for me; when I want to just remove light rust but not refinish – I use the 10 amp and take it out after a days soak. if I am trying to soften all the japanning too, I may leave it on at the 2 amp setting for a couple of days.

I had problems using the slow trickle chargers that are tiny – many have overload circuits that will prevent you from doing the electrolysis process.

-- Chris @ Atlanta - JGM - Occam's razor tells us that when you hear hoofs, think horses not zebras.

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2378 days


#5 posted 833 days ago

Thanks ITnerd. I need one badly, I see alot of planes in my future.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2944 posts in 912 days


#6 posted 833 days ago

Yeah, the totes are not easy to refinish. I think I’ll leave them as is unless they have paint or something.+

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Don W's profile

Don W

14828 posts in 1193 days


#7 posted 833 days ago

Shipwreck, just a note, I struggled with this a little. I bought a new battery charger (my old one dies). After, electrolysis always took to long so I never really bothered with it. Somewhere threw another conversation I mentioned I had a new battery charger and it didn’t seem to work right for electrolysis. Another LJ suggested putting a battery inline between the charger and the vat. What a difference. I had a dead garden tractor battery so I stuck it inline. In just seconds an old rusty block plane created this reaction.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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