New Table Saw - how to protect the table from rust?

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Forum topic by Mike posted 05-08-2012 03:40 PM 2457 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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60 posts in 2259 days

05-08-2012 03:40 PM

Hi Guys, just bought my new saw and am wondering, what does everyone do to combat rust on the table. My drill press table was nice looking for about a year, and I began to get lazy about oiling the table and now it’s all rusty. I don’t want that happening to me new saw. If it helps, my show is in my basement so it tends to get humid during the summer months. Thanks for any advice!


23 replies so far

View AJLastra's profile


87 posts in 2278 days

#1 posted 05-08-2012 03:44 PM

I’ve regularly use a product called “TopCoat” you can find it at Woodcraft, Rockler, Woodworker’s Supply. when you spray it on, let it turn white before you buff it off. It works great. What I dont like about it is that the surface you apply it to isnt as slick as it is if you just apply something like Johnson’s paste wax and buff it out.

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4032 posts in 3020 days

#2 posted 05-08-2012 04:34 PM

I have always used Johnson’s paste wax and no rust after 2 years in the basement in Tennessee.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4977 posts in 4010 days

#3 posted 05-08-2012 04:42 PM

Mike, you can spend a bloody fortune on chemicals if ya want. I just use a paste wax. Mississippi has its share of humidity in case ya didn’t know, so I wipe the surfaces with a solvent, dry ‘em with a paper towel, wax and buff. Do this 2 or 3 times a year (my way).
If something gets funky, use a non-woven pad to super clean. Then use the solvent/wax process.
Oh, I forgot. LAZY is an element of shop life.


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444 posts in 3244 days

#4 posted 05-08-2012 04:51 PM

Good old Johnson’s paste wax is the way to go and a small tub will last for years.

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3697 days

#5 posted 05-08-2012 05:20 PM

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77 posts in 2368 days

#6 posted 05-08-2012 05:29 PM

Hey Mike,

I’ve not used it myself, but several of the guys I know down here in Florida are big fans of Boeshield their tablesaws and such. I’ve got horribly acidic skin, and i leave rusty fingerprints on everything I touch unless I clean it. Hopefully this stuff will reduce my cleanup time.

-- _Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience_

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2772 posts in 2346 days

#7 posted 05-08-2012 05:44 PM

A dehumidifier can’t hurt either. Remember that all the screws and trunions on a saw will go unprotected.

View Earlextech's profile


1162 posts in 2740 days

#8 posted 05-08-2012 05:49 PM

paste wax

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View Bobmedic's profile


381 posts in 2851 days

#9 posted 05-08-2012 10:50 PM

T-9 Boeshield

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Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 4149 days

#10 posted 05-08-2012 10:59 PM

The more you use it the less rust will form;)

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana,

View Mike's profile


60 posts in 2259 days

#11 posted 05-08-2012 11:17 PM

Thanks everyone for your replies. I already have a tub of Johnson paste wax so I’ll give that a go. When I put the saw together I used a few rags to wipe all the oil off the table. It’s pretty clean now so do you think I can wax right over it or should I strip the steel with something like lacquer thinner and then apply the wax? I’m a reloader also and always use lacquer thinner to clean oil off new dies so I assume that’ll work on the saw table (with basement windows wide open!). :)

View William's profile


9950 posts in 2892 days

#12 posted 05-09-2012 02:06 AM

I also use Johnson’s Past Wax and am very happy with it.
I have to disagree with the statement someone made about a tub lasting for years though.
I go through a can about every month.
Of course I use it for everything under the sun though.
Just for one example, wax a saw blade and see what difference it makes in cutting.
I also use it as a finish on some projects too.
Nowadays, I keep two cans around. I label one for metal to be used on things such as tools and table saw tops. The other is labeled wood to be used on things such as handles and projects. I do this because I learned the hard way what happens if you accidentally get some metal residue, rust, or dirt in the can and then try to use it on a project. It is not pretty and hell to get cleaned back up to start over.


View William's profile


9950 posts in 2892 days

#13 posted 05-09-2012 02:10 AM

On a new tool I clean mine with sandpaper. I’m talking about something super fine like you’d use before applying paint to an automobile. I do this just to make sure it is super smooth. Then I spread it on and let it sit for a bit. Then I buff it with a rag. This make for a protected surface that is also slick. The slick surface has the added advantage to making it easier to handle heavier material on your saw. If you’ve ever used a saw that was rough and then try this method, you won’t believe the difference.

I meant to also put in my previous response, try waxing hand saw blades with Johnsons. It makes using them way more easier.


View jumbojack's profile


1678 posts in 2674 days

#14 posted 05-09-2012 02:29 AM

I’ll chime in with good old Johnsons.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View Martyroc's profile


2712 posts in 2355 days

#15 posted 05-09-2012 02:38 AM

Here’s what I do, never leave wood on top of the saw, or sawdust for that matter. I use butchers wax once a month or more if I have been working in the shop a lot. My TS is 23 years old, I would love to get a new one, but it still looks, no rust and works almost as good as the day I got it, oh yea and the 14 hours it took to assemble it, still resonates with me.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

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