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WTB a Sears Direct Drive Table saw (113.226640), insert ( part number 62514

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Forum topic by dmorrison posted 05-07-2012 11:29 PM 1941 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dmorrison

146 posts in 1952 days


05-07-2012 11:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw insert sears

My father-in law would like a zero clearance table saw insert for his Sears Direct Drive table saw. He has the sears model number 113.226640 table saw. The part number is 62514. Sears parts show they have 2 available. When I purchased then they sent a E-mail saying that they were out of stock.
The insert is a flat plate insert with a square rear and rounded front. A small screw is just forward of the blade to hold it in place. If anyone has one, or knows of one, I would like to purchase it. We will use Bondo to make it a zero clearance insert.
His saw is doing well. All aligned, and last month I installed my Vega fence that I took off my Powermatic model 63a. He is doing a jewelry box for my daughter and a zero clearance insert would help.

Thanks

Dave


8 replies so far

View woodman88's profile

woodman88

116 posts in 1339 days


#1 posted 05-08-2012 01:08 PM

I have always made my own out of a good hardwood

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2601 posts in 1041 days


#2 posted 05-08-2012 01:24 PM

I make mine from 1/4” MDF and formica.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View dmorrison's profile

dmorrison

146 posts in 1952 days


#3 posted 05-08-2012 05:52 PM

Thank you for the information. I’m afraid a hardwood or MDF insert would not be very strong. The insert is made out of sheet metal, about 14 or 16 gauge. A small clip in the rear holds it down in the back and the front screw secures it.

If you have used your technique on a sears direct drive table saw please let me know. That would be great, he could make a couple of zero clearance inserts

Dave

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bondogaposis

2601 posts in 1041 days


#4 posted 05-08-2012 07:43 PM

I don’t have that exact saw but my stock insert is 1/8” sheet metal. The way I make mine is to cut a piece of MDF a bit larger than the insert. Then I laminate formica to both sides w/ contact cement. I then trace the insert on to the laminated MDF and rough cut close to the line w/ a bandsaw. I then tape the the stock insert to the laminated MDF with double sided tape, make sure it is stuck good. Then I put a flush trim bit in the router table and carefully adjust the height so that only the bearing rides on the steel while the blade trims the ZC insert to exact shape. I then remove the steel insert and put a rabbit bit into the router table and dial in the thickness so that the ZCI has a rabbet on the underside and the top sits flush to the saw top. Then when I am happy that the insert fits into the saw nicely, I lower the blade and pop in the ZCI and bring the rip fence over the top of the ZCI. Make sure that the rip fence is not sitting over the blade, then turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade and you will have a nice durable ZCI. I don’t worry about the clip in the back or the screw in the front for that matter. In many years I have never had one get thrown at me. Some guys put a rare earth magnet in there to hold it, but I have never had a problem leaving that off.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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dmorrison

146 posts in 1952 days


#5 posted 05-08-2012 10:56 PM

Bondo
Thank you for the reply. I will forward this to my Father-in-law for his review.

I have also talked to him about building a sled that will allow a zero clearance insert effect. We have talked about this method just a few minutes ago and I think he is heading to the basement to make something.
I will forward your method to him.

Another method I discussed with him is to build an insert to his dado blade insert plate. He can shape it as necessary to fit the opening and mount it to the insert via screws or tape.

Thank You
Dave

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Martyroc

2708 posts in 996 days


#6 posted 05-09-2012 02:29 PM

Hi Dave, I have a similar TS, and I have made a few from hardwood, mostly Maple. The back hold down is very important when bringing the blade up to make the initial cut, otherwise that thing will shoot like a rocket across the shop. I used a small piece of metal that I found at Lowes hardware section and shaped it on the grinder, than attached with a small screw from underneath. The front screw is easy just countersink the hole in the insert and you should be fine. My screw hole thread somehow got stripped after a few years and I just re-tapped the whole with a slight larger thread. Craftsman no longer offers that screw so even if I just lost the screw, I would still have to re-tap it.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Scroller47's profile

Scroller47

23 posts in 916 days


#7 posted 05-09-2012 02:51 PM

I believe Peachtree Woodworking Supply might have one available. They list one that sounds like it would work. you could give them a call and check it out.
John

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dmorrison

146 posts in 1952 days


#8 posted 05-24-2012 02:56 PM

Just an update. Peachtree Woodworking does not have this particular model. So I am still putting this out there if anyone has one they would like to sell.
His insert is 11 15/16” long, 3 47/64” wide and 3/32” thick with a square back and a hold down tab.

I’ll look into making one.

Thanks
Dave

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