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What's your sharpening rig?

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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 813 days ago 1291 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2938 posts in 887 days


813 days ago

I’ve lately gotten into hand planes. I only have a couple, but I can make curly chips with the best of you. I have been using an ancient stone to sharpen my blades, but I have one blade that needs to be completely ground down to a good clean edge. It has several level spots on the cutting edge which bring it through several angles. This is not good.

What I want to do is come up with a system, at little to no cost, for grinding and sharpening my blades.

Here’s what I’m considering.

I’m looking for a hand crank grinder that mounts on any bench. This will be the grinder. with it I can put a good clean edge on the cutting side of the blade. I’ll need some sort of jig to hold it at the proper angle.

Next I think I’ll invest in a 1000 stone and use my TS as a guide with a jig, and cut a block of wood at the proper angle, then clamp the wood to the blade and use the jig to run the blade over the stone in the slot on my TS.

Is the grinder a good investment?
Should I just get coarse, medium and fine stones and use them?
Where is a good place to find jigs for holding the blades?

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


13 replies so far

View Don W's profile

Don W

14645 posts in 1168 days


#1 posted 813 days ago

Take a look at this.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112000 posts in 2178 days


#2 posted 813 days ago

I use a work sharp 3000, works great.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2353 days


#3 posted 813 days ago

Hi Russel

I am pretty new to hand planes myself. I started out sharpening the blades using a MK II Veritas honing guide. I used the scary sharp sandpaper system for a few weeks then bought a set of waterstones. The MK II honing guide is good for a person that might not have the physical dexterity for holding a plane iron at the correct angle while while sharpening/honing. But personally, I think it is a waste of money for anyone without physical limitations.. You can do the same thing with a block of wood cut at a 25 degree angle and use it to get the feel for holding the iron at the proper angle. It might take a while but once you get the feel for holding the iron and working it on the honing material, you will be forever liberated from all the bullshit grinding/honing systems that companies love to pimp out. Once you know that you have the initial bevel down pact, all it takes is a slight bump of the pinkie to get the micro bevel.

A grinder is a good tool for conditioning a damage blade. A good tool rest wood be far more important than a holding jig.. A fine to medium grinding wheel will do most anything you need to shape the blade.

I mix my sharpening systems at this point. I use a grinder for a damaged blade to square it up. Blades with minor imperfections can be conditioned with 150 or 220 sand paper. After that I will work it on 1000, 4000, and 8000 waterstones. After you have a good working blade, you really only need the finer grits to hone the micro bevel.

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1524 days


#4 posted 813 days ago

worksharp 3000 here. works good,last a long time.

-- Life is good.

View Marc5's profile

Marc5

304 posts in 1943 days


#5 posted 813 days ago

There are some many options out there and all work well. After a couple years of trying different systems I choose to settle with a Jet slow speed water sharpening system for the initial grind or regrind and 6000 & 12000 ceramic water stones for honing. Not to messy, quick and fast. I use a MK2 honing jig on my plane blades. Good Luck.

-- Marc

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 887 days


#6 posted 813 days ago

I wonder if I could use my drill press as a motor to turn a grindstone. I can make a jig to hold the blade. The DP has many speeds and none of them are very fast.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Andy123's profile

Andy123

226 posts in 1075 days


#7 posted 813 days ago

Worksharp 3000.

-- The mistakes I make in woodworking are not mistakes they just give my projects character- Me

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2364 posts in 2038 days


#8 posted 813 days ago

Worksharp 3000… love it. You can hardly know what you’re doing and the blades still come out sharp.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4749 posts in 1178 days


#9 posted 813 days ago

http://lumberjocks.com/DaveTPilot/blog/28945

There’s another I’ll try and find as well that uses a drill press, it’s very good too.

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5255 posts in 1199 days


#10 posted 813 days ago

Worksharp 3000, and waterstone for me.

View enurdat1's profile

enurdat1

100 posts in 847 days


#11 posted 812 days ago

Worksharp 3000, Arkansas stones

-- It is what it is...

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1156 posts in 897 days


#12 posted 812 days ago

I’ve used my belt sander platen to clean up chipped or uneven chisels, then scary sharp method with success. Probably appalling to some of you, but it works great if you don’t let the steel ever get hot – just short passes. I’ve never done it with a wide planer blade. I think spending hundreds of dollars on sharpening systems and then hundreds more on tools to service the sharpening system is a bit much, for my wallet anyway.

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2353 days


#13 posted 812 days ago

I think I was way too harsh with my wording about sharpening systems. They have thier place for sure, but having to rely on a machine to keep my blades sharp would drive me crazy.

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