Router table "bench dogs" ?

Your “peg” needs to be a spring loaded plunger, attached to the fence; two of them, one each side.
Where you are showing pegs, just need to be holes in the table for the plungers to drop into.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

I would prefer not to damage my table (hence the t-slot idea). And if i do plugs in a rail in the t slot, its a lot harder to line up a hole with a specific measurement than its is a plug

Rockler sells a Stop Block Kit.

You could buy two. File a v-groove “index mark” at the exact middle of two opposing parallel sides of each of the two stop blocks. Position the fence at one of the distances, and lock it down. Push the two stop blocks up against the back of the fence, and lock them down, with the index marks perpendicular to the t-track. Make a color-coded Sharpie mark on the router table to each side of each “index mark”. (Be neat and it will look like a “decoration” on your router table top.)

To repeat that setting, move the stop blocks “index marks” to the color-coded router table marks – making sure to line up both sides of each block. Now push the router table fence back to the stop blocks, and lock it down.

I believe its harder to describe than it would be to do.

-- Jim Maher, Illinois

How about something like this …

You put a screw through whichever hole is appropriate for the setting that you require and screw into a strip of wood that slides in the mitre guage slot in front of the fence, not behind.

I’ve shown a drawing that wiould be good for setting regular settings at standard increments (inches, centimeters, whatever) but with a bit of planning, playing around and probably a few more holes, I’m sure it could be adapted to any set of distances that you need.

-- I may have lost my marbles, but I still have my love of woodworking

Hang on, here is another idea, also using the mitre guage slot …

-- I may have lost my marbles, but I still have my love of woodworking

If you are referring to aligning each end of the fence parallel it isn’t important. The router bit will cut the same if the fence is straight or at an angle providing you keep the work piece tight against the fence. The important thing is to get the cutting edge of the bit the correct distance from the fence as well as the bit height if necessary.

Another solution to setting the fence is to use a combination square by adjusting the ruler part of the square against the cutting edge of the bit with the sliding part of the square butted against the edge nearest the fence of a T-Track or miter slot if you have one in your table. Once you have that setting adjust the square to the width of cut you want, then slide the fence to the ruler part of the square with the square once again butted against the same track. If you don’t have a slot in your table the same procedure will work by using the front edge of the table.

-- If it won't fit get a BIGGER hammer.

How about a flip up stop on the back edge of the table (two actually) then cut spacer bars to fit between the stop and the fence as a repeatable reference. Spacer bars made in pairs and can be clearly labeled for how they are used.

-- Jim, Long Island, NY Ancorayachtservice.com home of the chain leg vise