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Forum topic by Mainiac Matt posted 05-04-2012 02:58 PM 1165 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mainiac Matt

7665 posts in 2235 days

05-04-2012 02:58 PM

After receiving advice about using Super glue and Epoxy to stabilize knots and small checks in glued up panels, I gave it a try.

The good news is that, buy using the shop vac I was able to draw the glue completely through the knots and checks and they are now solid, hare andstable.

The big oops is this….. I had already sanded the surface and I wasn’t at all finicky with the glue application, as I figured, I’ll re-sand it when I mount the bread boards anyways.

Welll, the epoxy is wicked hard, and if I just sand it with a jitter bug, it will make divets as the soft surrounding wood is removed much faster than the epoxy.

So I used a large, and very sharp framing chisel like a slick and was able to pare away all the epoxy that was on top of the surface, but it appears to have soaked into the grain and was still very visable.

So I touch sanded the discolored areas where the glue had been by hand (by thumb actually) and have managed to get most of the discoloration out. BUT….I can still see that the wood grain is hard and smooth in these spots.

The plan was to stain the top with Minwax Golden Oak and then take it to work where I can spray it with oil based varnish.

Top is Red Oak and can be seen on my blog.

Any help / advice is much appreciated….

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

7 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile


8534 posts in 3555 days

#1 posted 05-04-2012 03:24 PM

you can try and scrape off the surface with a scraper which will leave the surface much nicer looking than sanding it and is also not prone to digging into softer areas as the blade is rigid and straight all across not to mention the scraping action is much finer and smoother than sanding is.

other than that, I looked at your last blog post – and I don’t think it is that bad… you can always try to stain a small area that will be the ‘underside’ (hidden side) and see how it affects it.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Mainiac Matt

7665 posts in 2235 days

#2 posted 05-04-2012 03:39 PM

sorry… blog pic is pre-glue ..... I’ll update pic.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2261 days

#3 posted 05-04-2012 03:41 PM

minwax is a dye stain, it has to penetrate into the wood to work.
I would recomend you switch to a pigment stain such as cabot’s Golden oak instead, as the dye just isn’t going to soak into the epoxy.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

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Mainiac Matt

7665 posts in 2235 days

#4 posted 05-04-2012 05:26 PM

any idea how deep the epoxy would have penetrated into the red oak?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

7665 posts in 2235 days

#5 posted 05-06-2012 12:25 AM

Here’s a close up of the epoxy “stain”

We went ahead and finished up the bread boards and now we’ll se how these turn out after resanding the entire top with a jitter bug.

I like the scraping idea…. but I don’t have a scraper and have zero experience with them.

Perhaps this is the excuse… I mean justification for a new tool?

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View ShipWreck's profile


557 posts in 3659 days

#6 posted 05-06-2012 12:36 AM

You can try methyl ethyl ketone. ( also known as M.E.K.) It can break down epoxy pretty easily without damaging the wood.

View a1Jim's profile


116906 posts in 3484 days

#7 posted 05-06-2012 12:39 AM

I would guess you will have to sand at least 1/32 of the whole surface. Next time keep some acetone on hand and clean it first thing.

-- Custom furniture

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