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Forum topic by sandhill posted 811 days ago 1269 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


811 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: resource tip question

I am just about finished with the sheet rock on the wall in my new shop. I want to start shopping for dust collector ducting now. I am looking for 6” for the main trunk and 4” drops to each machine with a blast gate at each one. I have no idea where to get it or what would be the best course of action. Funds are getting low so I can’t go out and buy the rolls Royce ducting system I would like but I don’t want to use cardboard tubes either. What does everyone here use Spiral duct or PVC? Is there a big cost difference vrs. performance? Is one easier to install than the other?
Thanks in advance

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/


21 replies so far

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patron

12952 posts in 1936 days


#1 posted 811 days ago

i just used heat ducting tin ones from the box stores
buy haven’t taped them yet
as i plan to move them all to a future new shop
(some say they can collapse)

the gates i got from penn state

pvc is easier to cut and glue
some like a grounding wire
from tool to vacuum
to keep them from flash fires and clogging
but in our small shops
it doesn’t seem to matter that much it seems
as many don’t do that

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#2 posted 811 days ago

Lots of info on Bill Pentz’s site http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm Lots about the question you asked, just be prepared to read for a while.
I’m looking at a DC upgrade soon; planning on using heavier gauge HVAC duct from HD. Bill has (had) a picture of some lighter gauge pipe that collapsed when the DC was on with the blast gates closed. Heavier gauge apparently can take the vacuum.
For blast gates he recommends ones that the gate goes entirely through the body to prevent dust build up (like the Lee Valley model.)

-- John

View Kevin S Leadbeater Sr.'s profile

Kevin S Leadbeater Sr.

39 posts in 1803 days


#3 posted 808 days ago

Home depot—-
woodworkers supply
woodcraft
rockler

-- Keivn S Leadbeater Sr.,FL www.kevinscustomwoodworking.com 727.804.8422

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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


#4 posted 808 days ago

Kevin, Doest HD have spiral duct that will not collapse and snaps togather?

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#5 posted 808 days ago

According to HD website, they do carry 26ga pipe in 2’ section; not spiral though.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100172309/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=6%22+metal+duct+piping&storeId=10051

Free shipping even. I didn’t look in the store. For what I’ll need I figured I’d just order it online and let them deliver.

-- John

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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


#6 posted 808 days ago

2’ is kind of short most places I saw sell 3’ spiral. Is 26 ga thick enough I hear some of this stuff collapses when all blast gates are closed. Are you putting it in your shop?

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#7 posted 808 days ago

Yeah, I would prefer longer lengths too. They carry longer lengths of thinner gauge material. Bill Pentz’s site recommends 26 gauge, so it should be fine. I haven’t really shopped around, I intend to check some HVAC supply places to see if they have a better selection or pricing. If I don’t find another supplier I’ll go HD.

He mentions that thinner fitting are OK, which makes sense.

He talks highly of the PCV sewer and drain pipe, but my web searching hasn’t found a good source around me. My HD has the pipe, but very few fittings. Around him it is cheaper, and smoother inside so it’s better for air flow.

-- John

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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


#8 posted 808 days ago

I saw something about if you use PCV it cost about the same as the good spiral snap and lock and there is a better selection of fittings right?

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#9 posted 808 days ago

There’s no need to run full schedule 40 PVC, way thicker and more expensive than needed. Looking at some other sites 5’ of 6” pipe seems to run from $26 (Rockler) to about $35 (Grizzzly, Norfab, and a few other sites). Fitting seem pretty abundant and some are very pricey (Norfab wnats $60 for a 6” long sweep elbow and $145 for a 6” wye!!). The HD 26 gauge duct is $5.50 for 2”, or about half the price of the spiral. I can’t find 6” PVC on the HD website, so I can’t price it. My preference would be for metal, but I might go PVC.

I’ll have to see how long a straight run I end up with, I might go spiral on the straight and HD on the fittings. They don’t have a great selection, but they’re a whole lot cheaper than some other options. For instance they don’t have a long radius elbow, but the elbow they have is fully adjustable straight to 90deg, so I’m planning on using 2 each set to 45deg ($4.68 each). I would also assemble the fittings so that the male end points to the DC system, so there should be less chance of dust piling up at a seam.

I did a good bit of research on this, but I’m not going to pull the trigger until the Fall, so I’m not 100% set. You’ll have to let me know how you end up going and how it worked out for you.

-- John

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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


#10 posted 808 days ago

I will let you know what I end up with. I do a little video mostly for family and friends even though I say “Hi Lumber Jocks”. I am finishing up unloading my second POD I have about 100 bft of mixed hard woods to finish unloading. I closed up the shop and the POD today as well as the basement and set off about 6 insect bombs. I came across a few wolf spiders (I hate spiders!) as well as a few palmetto bugs. Tomorrow I will air it all out and hope to get back to finishing the sheet rock in the shop I have about 4 sheets to put up but its all cutting and fitting then run one more 120VAC line for the Door opener and roof vent/fan I sure hope I can be done by next week. I can’t do the ceiling until Fall so all the ducting will be temporary but I guess that’s a good think this way I can see if it works and make changes before I close in the ceiling.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


#11 posted 808 days ago

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Allanwoodworks

111 posts in 1436 days


#12 posted 808 days ago

Sandhill,

Take a look at the dust collector I built under my projects. It was a cheep alternative to a clearvue cyclone. Works great with the Harbor freight motor.

-- Ty, Up in Washington

View MoshupTrail's profile

MoshupTrail

287 posts in 1076 days


#13 posted 808 days ago

You want the smoothest and largest interior possible. So rule out spiral or flexible ducting. Choose 5” diameter or 6” diameter if you can afford it. The other thing you want is “gentle” turns. There are two kinds of elbows available and you want the largest radius possible. PVC or metal heating duct will work fine, but you’ll need to seal every joint in the metal with metal tape. Do not use duct tape. Duct tape is about the worst choice possible for ducts ironically.
I would recommend a large trunk line (6”?) with smaller branches (4”?) to each tool.

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

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sandhill

2102 posts in 2519 days


#14 posted 808 days ago

I have the DC unit and I planed on, 6 inch trunk with 4” at each machine & a blast gates close to the trunk that is still reachable. I am looking for price comparison vs. performance.

-- Bob Egbert AKA Sandhill http://www.sandhillwoodworks.com/

View jmos's profile

jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#15 posted 808 days ago

Sandhill, just to give you something else to fret about, Pentz recommends going 6” to each machine. His data show you need the 6” to keep the air speed up. It’s an interesting table.

Impractical for me with the jointer and planer, but I plan on modifying my table saw for a 6” underneath and a 4” on the guard. I’m going to run full 6” to each machine and drop to 4” as close to the tool as possible.

-- John

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