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Forum topic by flatboarder posted 04-28-2012 06:48 AM 1808 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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100 posts in 2275 days

04-28-2012 06:48 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer tablesaw

Hello everybody, Where would be a good place to look for someone that I could Hire to come and calibrate my machines for me. Mainly my Jointer and table saw. I have a new General International 80-225 hc 8” jointer and a three year old PM-2000 10” cabniet saw. The tables need setting on the jointers, I have all the tools it takes to set everything . i just need someone with the expierence and know how. My cabniet saw need to have the table leveled, shimmed, and set to the miter slots, again I have the tools to do the work with. I just bought a master plate thats within .0002” flat. I will pay good money to have this work done. I live in Pensacola, FL. My phone number is 850-712-3876 thanks alot. Christopher

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

12 replies so far

View SnowyRiver's profile


51452 posts in 2899 days

#1 posted 04-28-2012 07:03 AM

Calibrating the equipment is all part of the woodworking experience. Often its a good way to learn more about the machine. There is no better way to find out how it all works than to do this work yourself. If for some reason you cant or just dont care to, and I can understand that, you might try checking with a reputable machine sales and service store. Often they can make arrangements to send someone out to help.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View Cato's profile


693 posts in 2731 days

#2 posted 04-28-2012 12:49 PM

Christopher, since you have a PM 2000 maybe you could contact PM and see who they use to service machines in your area and call them to set the TS and jointer.

I think the equipment manufacturers source out their service work to qualified contractors.

I do agree with Wayne though, that it is a great way to understand how your machiner works to set it up yourself.
Not the most fun task sometimes when all you want to do is get to milling and cutting, but like maintenance it needs to be done.

View chrisstef's profile


15457 posts in 2425 days

#3 posted 04-28-2012 01:03 PM

The wood whisperer does a great segment on tuning up a jointer i opened it up on my phone while i was doing the work so i could go back n forth between the video and my machine. Came out spot on.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View flatboarder's profile


100 posts in 2275 days

#4 posted 04-28-2012 02:41 PM

Thanks for the advise its all good. Wayne Im disabled and there are some things that I have a hard time with. Ive tried for over a year now and I even bought three new jointers to try and get around the problem. I really dont want to get into the paticulars I just want to get my machinery fixed so I can fo back to woodworking. As far as calling PM to see who they use in this area I did that two years ago when I had the PJ 882 hc . After the local guy tried to get the tables coplaner it was worse than I started with.
On the subject of the video that marc put out on his website thats real good advise but I have a 72” starrett 380 series straightedge which works much better and its more accurate than the veritas alum straightedges. Sometimes in life we all could use a little help getting over a hump that seems to stop us dead in our tracks. Ive always been the type of person who not too proud to ask for help when I feel that I need it. At this point I feel that I could use some ojt to help me get pass this mental block that aeems to be haunting me on the jointer and The tablesaw. Thanks chris

the table saw. Im just looking for someone near by that I could pay to help me with

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

View waho6o9's profile


7115 posts in 1995 days

#5 posted 04-28-2012 02:52 PM

Maybe call some local high end cabinet shops in your area and talk with them. I’m sure they will be most helpful.
Or, local machine shops might work as well. They love calibrating machines.
Good luck Flatboarder.

View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2794 days

#6 posted 04-28-2012 05:00 PM

Anyone from the Pensacola area willing and able to give Christopher a hand?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ShipWreck's profile


557 posts in 3171 days

#7 posted 04-28-2012 06:18 PM

Hi Chris,

I honest believe that you should do it yourself. There is no rocket science in leveling table wings, our checking the alignment of the blade, or rip fence.

Here is all you need:

A good 12” – 18” straight edge
Shim stock (cut up soda cans work nicely)
A homemade blade/fence jig
Feeler gauges

The homemade jig is nothing more than a 2 pieces of wood. One piece to fit tightly into your miter slot. The second piece is joined at a 90 degree angle to the blade, and cut 3/8” – 1/2” short. Drill a small pilot hole in the end for a 1 1/2” screw. You use this jig to check your blade to miter slot alignment. Then you can set your fence from the miter slot.

Do it yourself and dont worry about screwing up. I have a close friend who is sort of my woodworking mentor. He does all this himself from a wheel chair.

You can set both machines with these basic tools and get them every bit as close as all the expensive junk they sell you for tuning .

View flatboarder's profile


100 posts in 2275 days

#8 posted 04-28-2012 07:27 PM

Thanks again for your assistance I have the proper tools to calibrate the table with no problem what so ever. As far as the table saw goes its not the wings thats the problem. With the four bolts loose the table almost snaps perfectily flat . The bottom of the table is right at .028’ on one side and .032” the other side a gap from the flat stock thats welded to the cabniet so i filled the gaps with shim stock. I then had to start bringing up the front of the saw a little at a time until I was able to get the same reading on the blade at 45 degrees. On the 90 degrees check it was within .001” front to back. The problem is I had to raise the front of the table up .052” just to get the miter slot and the blade parallell with each other front to back of my master plate. I use a 36” and a 48” starrett straightedge to check the tables for flattness both are within .001” dead flat. I think that .052” is way excessive and also I can tell that something is not right just by the way the amount of pressure it takes to feed the wood through the blade. I use nothing but Forrest saw blades and there all new as well. Look I know to do these things I’m just looking for someone that has the expierence and really knows what to do in these cases so that I can be taught how to do the right way. Im at a point in my woodworking stage that being able to calibrate my machines accurately will help me move to the next level. So I’m looking for that person and I would be willing to pay Him or Her for their time. Thank you

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

View flatboarder's profile


100 posts in 2275 days

#9 posted 04-28-2012 07:47 PM

Here we go somebody tell me this. On the jointer I put both tables the infeed and the outfeed table even with the arc of the knives at the cutterhead, By adjusting the cams , the I put the center of a 72” starrett steel straightedge right over the center of the cutterhead so the the straightedge has the same amount on both tables. The I start with the let say outfeed table and start adjusting the cams until I get the straightedge touching the table completly. Here is the question How do you do this and yet make sure that you have the outfeed table level with the arc of the knives all the way down the length of the entire table. In other words when I’m through setting the tables co planer what prevents the tables from being on a pitch so the the outside of the outfeed table is even lower than the arc of the knives or even higher than the arc of the knives. If the outfeed table is lower than the arc of the knives at the end of the table is causes your stock to taper from back to front right? I mean it will cut more off the end of the cut than the start of the cut. right? and if its the reverse then it will taper from front to back right? This is my main problem.

-- Ive cut this board three times and its still too short?

View devann's profile


2199 posts in 2111 days

#10 posted 04-28-2012 08:00 PM

this Lj has some blogs about jointers. This might be of some interest to you flatboarder.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

View lullabies1023's profile


5 posts in 1547 days

#11 posted 07-27-2012 11:18 PM

The machines cover Universal Wood alive Machine,Combind Chain & Chisel Mortiser , Copy Router Machine, Dust Collector, Drum Sander, Four Side Planer, Four Side Planer with Fifth Universal Spindle , Oscillation Mortiser, Panel Saw , Pneumatic Clamp Carrier, Horizontal & Vertical Band Saw, Vertical Spindal Moulder, Wood Turning Lathe, Surface Planer etc.

Woodworking Machinery

View lullabies1023's profile


5 posts in 1547 days

#12 posted 08-04-2012 11:04 PM

This Machine has been developed according to the charge of Carpenters. The appearance of this router are analogously added than the added accessible in the International market.

Woodworking Machinery manufacturers

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