Excessive saw dustnfrom table saw

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Forum topic by Dj1225 posted 04-28-2012 03:49 AM 2471 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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62 posts in 2214 days

04-28-2012 03:49 AM

I just purchased a craftsman 22116 cabinet type table saw. I bought it primarily to cut down on sawdust in my shop.
I had a ridged contractors saw that was a great saw but even with a dust collection attached it still left a lot of dust under the saw. So I bought the cabinet saw in hopes of reducing the mess in my shop. Saw is fine, but the amount of sawdust blowing off the blade and back at me was crazy. I was cutting some 8/4 walnut and almost needed a mask, I literally could not stand behind it. I checked my vacuum and it is pulling fine, so I am really curious if anyone has an idea about this. Definitely less dust on the floor, but I think most of it went in my lungs.

No I do not have the blade guard on,but it is open in the middle so I do not think it would be much help.
My vac is a 1 hp so it should be enough.


-- Dave

12 replies so far

View Loren's profile (online now)


10376 posts in 3642 days

#1 posted 04-28-2012 04:16 AM

That’s table saws.

Check fence and blade parallelism. These being off can
cause more airborne dust.

If you are serious about dust control you need to get
the dust from the top as well as the bottom.
Get a blade guard with a vac hole and set it up.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2281 days

#2 posted 04-28-2012 11:13 AM

I find I get FAR less dust when I have a zero clearance insert in place AND I’ve carefully adjusted things parallel.

When you’re out of parallel, the back edge of the blade is cutting on the up-stroke and bringing dust over the top.

View Manitario's profile


2630 posts in 2877 days

#3 posted 04-28-2012 11:34 AM

As Loren said, that’s table saws. My TS has an internal blade shroud that cuts down a lot of the dust produced, however the real solution is to get an overhead blade guard, eg. Shark guard etc. and hook it up to the DC. I use a Shark guard with a 4” port as my overhead blade guard and when hooked up to my DC there is virtually no dust thrown back at me.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

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405 posts in 3029 days

#4 posted 04-28-2012 12:00 PM

if there is a blade shroud check to see if the exit might be clogged, also i have seen different types/brands of blades throw off dust differently

View toolie's profile


2121 posts in 2623 days

#5 posted 04-28-2012 12:24 PM

you need a proper dust collector, minimum 1hp, preferably 1.5-2hp (~1100 cfm is best). there’s no way a shop vac will ever move the appropriate amount of air to effectively control that saw dust.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3063 days

#6 posted 04-28-2012 01:47 PM

+1 with toolie.

Even with a 2.5” hose, a shop vac won’t move enough air to effectively pull dust out of a saw cabinet.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View SnowyRiver's profile


51457 posts in 3475 days

#7 posted 04-28-2012 01:54 PM

If you have a cabinet saw, it takes quite a bit of suction to draw the dust off the blade, through the cabinet, and into the dust collector. I have a 1.75 hp Powermatic dust collector, and it pulls quite a bit of the dust from my cabinet saw, but I still end up with the majority of it in the cabinet. I find that I get less performance with the dust collector with a zero clearance throat plate than with an open one. I feel its because with a zero clearance plate, you dont get the suction around the blade and any dust that is above the table will just blow around. I think the best dust collector for a TS would be the overhead/over the blade type.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View lieutenantdan's profile


176 posts in 2300 days

#8 posted 04-28-2012 02:03 PM

I only use dustless wood. Costs more but well worth it.

-- "Of all the things I have lost in life, I miss my mind the most."

View TechRedneck's profile


768 posts in 2851 days

#9 posted 04-28-2012 09:20 PM

Tune up the saw, balde aligned to the slot and fence parallel. I always use a zero clearance insert ( except for angle cuts ). The height of the blade should allow the teeth to clear and no more.

Get a decent DC unit. This will pull a lot of dust from the cabinet. A blade guard will help, and as others have mentioned some suction on the blade guard helps. Even with all this, you may still get some dust but it will be minimal.

The fine dust in the air can be suspended for a long time. I would look at an ambient air cleaner as well. You can make or buy one. I built a downdraft table which I use as an outfeed table for the saw. Whatever comes at me or on the saw table I clean up with a shop vac that has a clearstreem HEPA filter in it. The downdraft table has a timer and it runs for 15 minutes after I cut to clean the air.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3063 days

#10 posted 04-28-2012 10:59 PM

An out of parallel fence can contribute to the problem, but if you don’t have burn marks on your board, it isn’t much of an issue.

The real culprit is the gullets on your saw blade. The teeth are shaving tiny shreds of wood down into the gullets, but the speed of the blade carries them around to the top before they can drop away from the blade. That’s why a blade shroud works. It moves the air flow inlet very close to the blade which pulls the shavings out of the gullets before they can get back to the top of the table.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View 47phord's profile


182 posts in 2232 days

#11 posted 04-28-2012 11:11 PM

Another thing that will help is making sure all of the various holes in your saw are plugged (i.e.- where the table rests on the cabinet, where the arbor tilt protrudes from the front of the saw, etc.) so the DC is only pulling air from around the blade.

View Dj1225's profile


62 posts in 2214 days

#12 posted 04-30-2012 02:11 AM

Thanks fornthe advice

-- Dave

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