Want good tool sharpner

If money is no object then Tormek is an excellent system.

http://www.tormek.com/en/

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Another system that works for me is the Worksharp 3000. It is a nice relatively inexpensive, $199.99, system with which I can produce a razor edge on my chisels and plane irons. Here is a recent review posted by Wayne C.

Hope this helps.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

I have the Worksharp as well. Works fine.

-- Bruce from Central New York

i have a set of norton water stones and they work great with just a little time and elbow grease.

-- Roper - master of sawdust-

WORKSHARP 3000

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

I have a 10×4 dmt plate, I believe it’s 600/1200,I also have a couple more smaller ones that I have modified to clean up the inside of parting tools and such…the 10×4 is always on my bench, so I am very happy with it…it is also wide enough for the honing guide I use for the plane blades….. an economical alterntaive is the wet sandpaper on glass….I also use a hard felt wheel on my hand cranked grinder and one that is mounted on a 1/2” drill also mounted to my bench. I use the stones or dmt to flaten the backs and rough in the bevel and the hone as needed to keep a VERY sharp edge, unless the edge becomes damaged, chipped or what have you, I can usually go 2 months before I have to recut the bevel.

-- If knowledge is not shared, it is forgotten.

I agree with Gary. The Tormek system can sharpen about anything.

Lew

I sold my Tormek and bought a Worksharp 3000. Of course your mileage may vary and it also depends on what tools will be sharpened.

-- My woodworking pictures http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/bnoles616/

I have the Tormek and it’s nice but I find myself using waterstones more

It all depends. As you can see, there are a bazillion different opinions out there regarding sharpening (okay, maybe only about a dozen). I don’t think it’s something to get too worked up about. Any system, if done properly, will sharpen up your blades just fine. With some systems, you might need to sharpen more frequently. Some systems are more expensive than others.

I say just go for it – try SOMETHING – and only change it if you don’t feel it works for you.

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

Power Sharpening -

I use a Makita wet grinder. Big time saver. I can do planer blades
with it too because it comes with a jig.

Hand Sharpening -

I have several waterstones. For planes and chisels all you need is
a combo stone – get the 800/4000 combo for about $25.oo
You can get 6000 and 8000 grit stones but 4000 will get your
irons plenty sharp if you learn the technique.

If you go with waterstones you NEED top have a Nagura stone and
a way to occasionally flatten the stones. I use a floor-sanding screen
on a sheet of glass to do it.

For shaping tool edges and removing nicks you need either a real
coarse stone or a grinder. I use a regular $40 grinder with a white
oxide wheel on it. The stock toolrests always suck. You can spend
a lot on a tool rest or do what I did – bolt your grinder to a piece
of plywood and run a 1/2” pipe across the front of both wheels at
the midpoint, supported by wood blocks on each end. This tool-rest
is rock-solid and give me a lot of control.

It’s kind of hard to understand how to sharpen without having
somebody show you how. My methods evolved over time but they
started when a guy showed me how to sharpen Japanese plane
irons. Later I read an article by Ian Kirby where he described the
grinder tool-rest and 800/4000 grit stone combo. Even though
I own the finer grit stones as well I could do very nice work with
just the grinder, tool-rest, and combo stone – all told it would cost
about you $80 and an afternoon to put it together.

-- http://amherstcabinets.com - also a marketing consultant with expertise in direct response marketing for woodworking and online business building