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Plane Iron Sharpening Question

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Forum topic by Jim Crockett (USN Retired) posted 06-24-2008 04:43 AM 826 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jim Crockett (USN Retired)

852 posts in 2481 days


06-24-2008 04:43 AM

I have pretty much restored an old plane I found that belonged to my dad. I have sharpened the blade using sandpaper and a flat marble slab to 2000# and it cuts a nice shaving. However, for each pass I make with the plane, I leave two gouges, one at the right end of the blade and one at the left. Having researched on the web, I guess I should have cambered (tapered?) the blade while sharpening, or some such thing. My question now is – do I need to go back to the beginning and resharpen from about 220# to achieve the thisr? From what I read, I guess it doesn’t need to be a lot of taper, just .001 or so, right?

Thanks for your advice.

Jim

-- A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including his/her life".


4 replies so far

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12302 posts in 2845 days


#1 posted 06-24-2008 11:58 AM

These are known as plane tracks….

Are you using a jig or sharpening free hand?

Either way, you should be able to put pressure on each side and make additional passes to get the camber or get a cambered roller if your using a veritas jig.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=54181&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1

I would not think you need to go back to 220.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 2446 days


#2 posted 06-24-2008 01:40 PM

Do you have a photo of your plane I have an old wooden one that was had made by my grand father it must be I must be 175 year old and I think I have ruined it the bottom was full of marks and lines so I did a couple of pass on the jointer and I am sure now it changes the value of it.

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3971 posts in 2812 days


#3 posted 06-24-2008 06:32 PM

I think Wayne is right. Depending on the type of plane and it’s intended use (from as much as .125 for an aggressive scrub plane to as little as several thousandths for a smoother) you will be removing metal that will not be involved in the cut, and likely not a great deal of that. I supposed it’s more a matter of how much time you wish to spend and how much burr will need to be polished off afterward.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7823 posts in 2396 days


#4 posted 06-24-2008 07:22 PM

Just dub off the corners on a grinder. You can go back
and make the blade perfect later but for now grinding
the corners will reduce the gouging.

The amount of curve on the blade has to do with the type
of work you want to use the iron for and the depth of cut
too. For heavy stock removal the iron should be more
curved and you’ll use a deeper depth of cut to hog off the
material.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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