Plane Iron Sharpening Question

These are known as plane tracks….

Are you using a jig or sharpening free hand?

Either way, you should be able to put pressure on each side and make additional passes to get the camber or get a cambered roller if your using a veritas jig.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=54181&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1

I would not think you need to go back to 220.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Do you have a photo of your plane I have an old wooden one that was had made by my grand father it must be I must be 175 year old and I think I have ruined it the bottom was full of marks and lines so I did a couple of pass on the jointer and I am sure now it changes the value of it.

-- - - Tools are nice to have but you need someone to work them - -

I think Wayne is right. Depending on the type of plane and it’s intended use (from as much as .125 for an aggressive scrub plane to as little as several thousandths for a smoother) you will be removing metal that will not be involved in the cut, and likely not a great deal of that. I supposed it’s more a matter of how much time you wish to spend and how much burr will need to be polished off afterward.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Just dub off the corners on a grinder. You can go back
and make the blade perfect later but for now grinding
the corners will reduce the gouging.

The amount of curve on the blade has to do with the type
of work you want to use the iron for and the depth of cut
too. For heavy stock removal the iron should be more
curved and you’ll use a deeper depth of cut to hog off the
material.

-- http://amherstcabinets.com - also a marketing consultant with expertise in direct response marketing for woodworking and online business building