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is teak oil safe 4 cutting boards?

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Forum topic by bodymanbob posted 04-23-2012 11:54 PM 5958 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bodymanbob

36 posts in 1717 days


04-23-2012 11:54 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question ash mahogany walnut oak

so is teak oil safe for cutting boards? if not what is?


10 replies so far

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1503 days


#1 posted 04-24-2012 01:34 AM

Mineral oil. No odor, and it won’t go rancid.

You’ll find it in the laxative section at Safeway. Warm it gently until it’s thin (not in a microwave oven!) and apply it until it puddles, adding to the places where it’s absorbed. Let it sit for 15 minutes and wipe off the excess.

Repeat twice a year.

Kindly,

Lee Barker

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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bodymanbob

36 posts in 1717 days


#2 posted 04-24-2012 02:08 AM

thank you

View Doss's profile

Doss

779 posts in 917 days


#3 posted 04-24-2012 02:57 AM

You can also use something like Howards which is a combo of beeswax and orange oil. It goes by the name of butcher block conditioner or something like that.

-- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1017 posts in 939 days


#4 posted 04-24-2012 09:59 AM

pure tung oil is also a food safe finish.
For a cutting board, I’d stay with mineral oil though. For a butcherblock countertop I use a thinned tung oil.

I LIKE the smell of tung oil! :)

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

573 posts in 1718 days


#5 posted 04-24-2012 11:39 AM

walnut oil is also a good choice if you don’t have tree nut allergies. it is food safe since it is actually food. :)

It is one of the few oils that actually cures, so it will last longer between applications than mineral oil.

Lots of people also use salad bowl finish. I love this stuff for kitchen utensils and bowls, but I don’t like to put it on cutting boards because the surface gets hacked up from the blade.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1452 posts in 1014 days


#6 posted 04-24-2012 09:30 PM

There’s no such thing as “teak oil finish” because the oil that naturally occurs in teak never gets extracted. Products labeled as “Teak Oil” are most likely combimations of drying oils based on boiled linseed oil, which ain’t the best thing to put on a cutting board.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View KenBry's profile

KenBry

449 posts in 1100 days


#7 posted 04-24-2012 10:37 PM

BTW, you can get “Butcherblock oil” at Lowes. On the bottle it says it’s Mineral oil too. It was cheaper than the Drug store version for me.

-- Ken, USAF MSgt, Ret.

View bindernut's profile

bindernut

3 posts in 896 days


#8 posted 04-25-2012 05:50 PM

I’ve made 2 for myself & I used plain mineral oil. Got it at the local hardware store, it was actually in the wood finish isle. Got 3 more boards on the bench right now for people & I plan to use mineral oil on them. I looked at butcher block oil at the local Rockler, it was just mineral oil w/ some type of wax added to it. I might try some in the future when I run out of mineral oil, though it’s about 30 or 40% higher priced.

View HawkDriver's profile

HawkDriver

447 posts in 1286 days


#9 posted 04-25-2012 06:11 PM

Emmets good stuff is also an option. It’s a bit pricey, but a little goes a long way.

http://www.amazon.com/Emmets-Good-Stuff-Wood-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

I have used this products and am pretty impressed with it so far.

-- Patrick, Helicopters don't fly. They beat the air into submission.

View bodymanbob's profile

bodymanbob

36 posts in 1717 days


#10 posted 04-27-2012 11:21 PM

thank you all

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