Wood movement question

I don’t think the focal point will be the glue laminations Shane. After it’s all built and sealed it will look awesome.
Maybe run some dado’s for an inlay? Only, if it really bothers you.
Have fun.

I would also be concerned about the veneer. Would it be possible to cut out the bad joints 1/4” deep or so with a dado or saw kerf, then just gluing in narrow strips.

-- Lynn "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

No worry Shane it’s done all the time,your covering a lamination in affect a shop made plywood that all but eliminates wood move movement.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

I’m not getting the warm and fuzzies about the 1/4”laminate idea. Several reasons. First, it splitting like you suggest, second your now adding another glue line but moving it to the other side, and last, your adding another joint to hide a joint.

I tend to agree with waho69, but I can’t see how bad those lines are. If your going to veneer, go thin enough so its a veneer, and you can hide the line. Also its less likely to split.

Another option would be to 45 the inlay. It shortens it a bit, moves the joint to the corner. The problem is its going to be a challenge to get it right.

Last option I can think of, recut all the joints and build the post like a box. Not my favorite idea, so think of this as me just thinking out loud.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Here’s another approach

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/general-discussion/hiding-glue-lines-thick-stock

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Can’t wait to see it.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Thanks for the suggestions and the link….it was almost the exact same issue. I like the inlay idea. I may try the veneer process, as thin as I can get it, then round over the edges. I was hoping for assurances, because I questioned my strategy. Thanks again!

Is your concern related to different wood colors, grain pattern of two adjacent boards, or a slight gap? If the first your staining process can correct. If it’s grain pattern, I’ve used artist brushes to ‘create’ patterns. And if it’s a gap you no doubt have considered filling with glue ‘n sawdust.

Or maybe, just maybe, those glue lines can face the wall-side of the headboard.

-- "I dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road and no one questions its motive"' - Anne Nonny Mouse