Wood movement question

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Forum topic by ShaneA posted 856 days ago 770 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5289 posts in 1230 days

856 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: wood movement mohagany bed post

I am just beginning to build a king bed, put it off for about one yr. Kind of a big project for my one car garage shop. The post and frame will be of african mohagany, with a nice ribbon pattern to it. I am looking at posts of roughly 3 3/8” square. I glued/laminated three 5/4” boards to get the thickness. I am not overjoyed at the glue lines in an area or two…so I was wondering if it would possible to resaw some down to 1/4” or smaller and veneer over the glued/laminated edge grain? I was trying to avoid end caps. But I am a little concerned about wood movement splitting the veneered sides. Should I be? I guess having the ribboned grain on all sides would be a plus. But it is another couple steps. Thanks for any suggestions.

8 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile


4834 posts in 1208 days

#1 posted 856 days ago

I don’t think the focal point will be the glue laminations Shane. After it’s all built and sealed it will look awesome.
Maybe run some dado’s for an inlay? Only, if it really bothers you.
Have fun.

View levan's profile


405 posts in 1611 days

#2 posted 856 days ago

I would also be concerned about the veneer. Would it be possible to cut out the bad joints 1/4” deep or so with a dado or saw kerf, then just gluing in narrow strips.

-- Lynn "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View a1Jim's profile


112015 posts in 2209 days

#3 posted 856 days ago

No worry Shane it’s done all the time,your covering a lamination in affect a shop made plywood that all but eliminates wood move movement.

-- Custom furniture

View Don W's profile

Don W

14874 posts in 1199 days

#4 posted 856 days ago

I’m not getting the warm and fuzzies about the 1/4”laminate idea. Several reasons. First, it splitting like you suggest, second your now adding another glue line but moving it to the other side, and last, your adding another joint to hide a joint.

I tend to agree with waho69, but I can’t see how bad those lines are. If your going to veneer, go thin enough so its a veneer, and you can hide the line. Also its less likely to split.

Another option would be to 45 the inlay. It shortens it a bit, moves the joint to the corner. The problem is its going to be a challenge to get it right.

Last option I can think of, recut all the joints and build the post like a box. Not my favorite idea, so think of this as me just thinking out loud.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. -

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112015 posts in 2209 days

#5 posted 856 days ago

View RussellAP's profile


2950 posts in 918 days

#6 posted 856 days ago

Can’t wait to see it.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View ShaneA's profile (online now)


5289 posts in 1230 days

#7 posted 856 days ago

Thanks for the suggestions and the link….it was almost the exact same issue. I like the inlay idea. I may try the veneer process, as thin as I can get it, then round over the edges. I was hoping for assurances, because I questioned my strategy. Thanks again!

View MNgary's profile


235 posts in 1049 days

#8 posted 855 days ago

Is your concern related to different wood colors, grain pattern of two adjacent boards, or a slight gap? If the first your staining process can correct. If it’s grain pattern, I’ve used artist brushes to ‘create’ patterns. And if it’s a gap you no doubt have considered filling with glue ‘n sawdust.

Or maybe, just maybe, those glue lines can face the wall-side of the headboard.

-- I dream of the world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

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