Wood movement question

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Forum topic by ShaneA posted 04-23-2012 04:36 PM 1224 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ShaneA's profile


6912 posts in 2568 days

04-23-2012 04:36 PM

Topic tags/keywords: wood movement mohagany bed post

I am just beginning to build a king bed, put it off for about one yr. Kind of a big project for my one car garage shop. The post and frame will be of african mohagany, with a nice ribbon pattern to it. I am looking at posts of roughly 3 3/8” square. I glued/laminated three 5/4” boards to get the thickness. I am not overjoyed at the glue lines in an area or two…so I was wondering if it would possible to resaw some down to 1/4” or smaller and veneer over the glued/laminated edge grain? I was trying to avoid end caps. But I am a little concerned about wood movement splitting the veneered sides. Should I be? I guess having the ribboned grain on all sides would be a plus. But it is another couple steps. Thanks for any suggestions.

8 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile


8168 posts in 2546 days

#1 posted 04-23-2012 04:41 PM

I don’t think the focal point will be the glue laminations Shane. After it’s all built and sealed it will look awesome.
Maybe run some dado’s for an inlay? Only, if it really bothers you.
Have fun.

View levan's profile


472 posts in 2949 days

#2 posted 04-23-2012 04:47 PM

I would also be concerned about the veneer. Would it be possible to cut out the bad joints 1/4” deep or so with a dado or saw kerf, then just gluing in narrow strips.

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View a1Jim's profile


117063 posts in 3546 days

#3 posted 04-23-2012 04:48 PM

No worry Shane it’s done all the time,your covering a lamination in affect a shop made plywood that all but eliminates wood move movement.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Don W's profile

Don W

18686 posts in 2537 days

#4 posted 04-23-2012 04:54 PM

I’m not getting the warm and fuzzies about the 1/4”laminate idea. Several reasons. First, it splitting like you suggest, second your now adding another glue line but moving it to the other side, and last, your adding another joint to hide a joint.

I tend to agree with waho69, but I can’t see how bad those lines are. If your going to veneer, go thin enough so its a veneer, and you can hide the line. Also its less likely to split.

Another option would be to 45 the inlay. It shortens it a bit, moves the joint to the corner. The problem is its going to be a challenge to get it right.

Last option I can think of, recut all the joints and build the post like a box. Not my favorite idea, so think of this as me just thinking out loud.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View a1Jim's profile


117063 posts in 3546 days

#5 posted 04-23-2012 05:16 PM

View RussellAP's profile


3103 posts in 2256 days

#6 posted 04-23-2012 05:20 PM

Can’t wait to see it.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View ShaneA's profile


6912 posts in 2568 days

#7 posted 04-23-2012 06:22 PM

Thanks for the suggestions and the link….it was almost the exact same issue. I like the inlay idea. I may try the veneer process, as thin as I can get it, then round over the edges. I was hoping for assurances, because I questioned my strategy. Thanks again!

View MNgary's profile


298 posts in 2386 days

#8 posted 04-24-2012 08:47 AM

Is your concern related to different wood colors, grain pattern of two adjacent boards, or a slight gap? If the first your staining process can correct. If it’s grain pattern, I’ve used artist brushes to ‘create’ patterns. And if it’s a gap you no doubt have considered filling with glue ‘n sawdust.

Or maybe, just maybe, those glue lines can face the wall-side of the headboard.

-- I dream of a world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

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