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Riving Knife Alignment; Grizzly G0715P Question

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Forum topic by david_larch posted 820 days ago 1435 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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david_larch

94 posts in 898 days


820 days ago

Hi all,

While cutting the plywood today for my bathroom vanity I encountered a problem with my riving knife. I have a Grizzly G0715P with a Forrest WW2 thin kerf blade. I remember seeing others on here had the same combo. I just got my saw and set it up a week ago. When pushing wider stock through I would hit the riving knife every time and stop immediately. I tried a few different pieces, checked the blade and fence parallelism with a dial, laid a straight edge to the blade and knife for alignment, and tried adjusting the riving knife several times. The knife doesn’t seem to want to go all the way to the ‘left’ on the rear of the base. Even with that in mind, my first thought is user error. Anyone every encounter this? Anyone else with this saw have a tip?

I ended up taking it out for the rest of the afternoon, but that isn’t my favorite thing to do.


13 replies so far

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DannyB

46 posts in 2017 days


#1 posted 820 days ago

You said you laid a straight edge to it.
Is it in the center of the blade?

Note that not every thickness riving knife will work with every thickness blade.
Generally, the knife has to be thicker than the plate body, and thinner than the kerf.

The kerf “thickness” specs on most of these blades is usually rounded up or down (IE some will claim 3/32, which is 0.09375, when it’s really 0.100).

I believe the forrest WWII thin kerf is 0.100. According to the grizzly specs, the G0715p riving knife thickness is 0.100. It also says:

Required Blade Body Thickness…...................................................................... 0.071 – 0.094 in. (1.8-2.4mm)
Required Blade Kerf Thickness…........................................................................ 0.102 – 0.126 in. (2.6-3.2mm)

At least to me, this would imply to me that it would not work with a 0.100 thickness blade like the WWII thin kerf.

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david_larch

94 posts in 898 days


#2 posted 820 days ago

Bummer, maybe I will install the factory blade to see if it is an alignment issue. Hate to set a side a great blade.

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DannyB

46 posts in 2017 days


#3 posted 820 days ago

You could ask grizzly if they make a thinner riving knife for this purpose.

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knotscott

5365 posts in 1971 days


#4 posted 820 days ago

A blade width of 0.100” is a tight fit for a riving knife of 0.100”....not much wiggle room. The runout of the arbor and blade is the only clearance. You’re gonna need a wider blade or a narrower riving knife.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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DannyB

46 posts in 2017 days


#5 posted 820 days ago

And that assumes the blade machining tolerances are essentially hyper accurate.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the plate/teeth/etc were off enough to matter here (IE 0.0005)

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crashn

517 posts in 1061 days


#6 posted 820 days ago

I have that same combo, and it works, just have to make sure that the riving knife is perfectly inline with the blade. Took ALOT of tinkering with the adjustments screws (they are a PAIN to adjust), but it is possible and once properly adjusted, does not bind.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

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david_larch

94 posts in 898 days


#7 posted 820 days ago

crashn, did you find that you had to adjust the 3 vertical screws in addition to the 2 at the bottom of the plate?

View northeaster's profile

northeaster

52 posts in 1088 days


#8 posted 820 days ago

Have you looked closely at your riving knife? Etched on mine (delivered 3/2011) are the following:

Thickness: 0.086”
Blade diameter: 10”
Blade body: 0.063-0.079”
Blade kerf: 0.094-0.118”

These numbers are also consistent with those from the G0715P manual I downloaded a few months ago.

I initially found it a bit difficult, too, to line up the riving knife properly. But loosening all the screws you mention and setting it parallel with the blade 1” above the table made things right with my default blade (Infinity 010-060, specified kerf 0.104”).

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david_larch

94 posts in 898 days


#9 posted 820 days ago

I’ll check tonight, likely the same as yours. I have the WWII 3/32 kerf (.09375) I emailed Forrest to see all the specs and ask if the 1/8” kerf might fit the tolerances. I’m going to give it another shot in a few days on the alignment end, too. it is pretty hard to align for this novice.

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DannyB

46 posts in 2017 days


#10 posted 820 days ago

Interesting, sounds like they changed the riving knife, the numbers I originally quoted are from the grizzly spec page (I don’t have a G0715P) that i downloaded yesterday.
However, I do have a WWII thin kerf. I measured it with dial calipers, and it’s definitely 0.100, which is consistent with what the forrest specs actually say. They call it 3/32 because it’s convenient.
The only real 3/32 blade i know of is the ridge carbide ts2000

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crashn

517 posts in 1061 days


#11 posted 820 days ago

I end up messing with all the adjustment screws, and I dont have allen wrenches long enough to fit all the way down in there. It is quite a pain in the tuckus, about the only negative I can say about the saw.

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

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gfadvm

10531 posts in 1286 days


#12 posted 820 days ago

I have that same saw and removed the riving knife a few days after I set it up. I’m careful to wedge any cut that wants to close and haven’t missed the riving knife yet.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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northeaster

52 posts in 1088 days


#13 posted 819 days ago

I agree, crash: getting to the lower bolts could be frustrating without 3/8” drive metric Allen sockets and an extension. With them, I think it’s not too bad.

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