LumberJocks

How many years am I looking at to dry?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by yellowtruck75 posted 04-19-2012 09:57 PM 2144 views 1 time favorited 39 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View yellowtruck75's profile

yellowtruck75

426 posts in 1818 days


04-19-2012 09:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: walnut

First time ever buying anything on Craigslist I just bought 350 bf of Walnut for $2/bf. All pieces are 8’ long with numerous 1” pieces, 7 2” thick pieces and one 4” thick pieces. All the 2” and 4” still have the bark on them. They were cut a month ago so how many years am I looking at until I can use it?


39 replies so far

View Gonecrazy's profile

Gonecrazy

41 posts in 1280 days


#1 posted 04-19-2012 10:03 PM

The standard rule of thumb is 1yr per inch of thicknes when stickered and covered properly …....

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3209 posts in 2574 days


#2 posted 04-19-2012 10:04 PM

rule of thumb 1 year for each inch, Gonecrazy beat me to it

View robdem's profile

robdem

337 posts in 1357 days


#3 posted 04-19-2012 10:06 PM

Basically one year per inch of thickness of wood if letting air dry.But you have to make sure you sticker it so you get air movement between each layer of wood

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3587 posts in 2711 days


#4 posted 04-19-2012 10:18 PM

First thing is to get the bark off. Yep! Thumb rule is 1 year per inch unless you can put it in a warmer environment. Get a moisture meter. 6/8 % is a great starting point. Be aware that there are some internal issues with any wood. Tension, grain, etc. Some woods will require additional conditioning after rough cutting/planing. I usually let my workpieces acclimate in the shop for a couple of days after roughing.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7945 posts in 2803 days


#5 posted 04-19-2012 11:15 PM

yellowtruck75:


unless you can put it in a warmer environment.

I can help solve your problem!

I’m in HOT SUNNY Southern California… it would probably dry here much faster than there in PA!

You could ship me some of it… I would pay for the freight…
... I would get it Air Dried…
... When you are ready to make something, I could rough cut the boards into your Part boards, from which you would do the final cutting, etc….
... I would ship them back to you (probably UPS or Fedex) . you pay the freight on a small amount (not much waste)...
I get to keep an equal amount that was used for your parts!

How does that sound?!

Man! You sure got a super deal!

The last time I bought Walnut, a few months ago, I paid close to $9/bft 8/4

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View sandhill's profile

sandhill

2128 posts in 2674 days


#6 posted 04-19-2012 11:29 PM

It will have to be steamed to get that store bought look you get at the mills. Am I right fellers?

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5293 posts in 1327 days


#7 posted 04-19-2012 11:29 PM

Shouldn’t one seal the end grain with wax or paint?

Nice score on the walnut.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7945 posts in 2803 days


#8 posted 04-20-2012 12:40 AM

I understand that Air Dried is desired by the “purist” that works with Walnut…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

609 posts in 1816 days


#9 posted 04-20-2012 12:48 AM

The one year per inch is a generalization, and I think a worse case scenario, but it depends on the humidity in your area and where you store it. I dry most of my lumber in my attic which is dry and warm in the summer, but it is shaded so it is not wicked hot up there. I find that walnut dries fairly quickly relative to other species. Last year I put some fresh cut 4/4 and 8/4 walnut in my attic in March and the 4/4 was down to 9% by the end of July, which is about as low as it goes in MN. The 8/4 was at 9% by October. As waho said, be sure to seal the ends of you will lose a lot of lumber to checking. If you seal it right away your loss will be greatly minimized.

Here are a few more ideas on stacking, storing, etc.: http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/one-great-tip/should-i-buy-my-lumber-green-/

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View yellowtruck75's profile

yellowtruck75

426 posts in 1818 days


#10 posted 04-20-2012 12:55 AM

What should I use to seal the ends?

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1481 posts in 2316 days


#11 posted 04-20-2012 01:08 AM

Nice score..
As Waho6o9 said, seal the ends with melted wax or paint as an alternative.

How is the sapwood? pics please?

Is there enough 2” for another rocker?

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

609 posts in 1816 days


#12 posted 04-20-2012 01:25 AM

For sealing the ends, you can use any latex paint, or a special wax emulsion that is formulated for this purpose. I have used both and they work equally well. The only advantage of the wax that I am aware of is that it won’t hurt your planer blades.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1215 posts in 1227 days


#13 posted 04-20-2012 01:55 AM

I see the 1” per year rule-of-thumb quoted often on wood working forums. For me here in Georgia, it is a poor rule of thumb. Properly stickered walnut here under an open shed will air dry down to 12 % in less than 180 days. The 8/4 will take closer to a year, definitely not 2 years. I check my wood stacks with a moisture meter so that I am not guessing. If you do leave the 4/4 for a year, you will definitely be safe.

I have found latex paint to be a poor end sealer. Anchorseal is the very best stuff to use bar none.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT15 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

View Gonecrazy's profile

Gonecrazy

41 posts in 1280 days


#14 posted 04-20-2012 02:01 AM

The 1 inch per yr is just a general rule of thumb as always diferent conditions will always change the dry time …

View Doss's profile

Doss

779 posts in 1015 days


#15 posted 04-20-2012 04:17 AM

Like everyone else is saying, about 1 year per inch thickness. If you live in a humid area, you can forget about getting it down to furniture dryness by just letting it air dry in the open. It will stabilize to around 15-22%.

Keep a cover over it and make sure it has proper ventilation. Get it at least 1 foot off the ground. Don’t put something like a tarp directly on it. Just get a roof over it. After 6-8 months, get it inside and let it finish drying in your home.

The ones at 4” may take a while longer. I’ve figured out that 1” dries fast (less than a year usually). 2” usually takes about 2 years (pretty much at the 1” a year mark). Anything beyond that and the times start extending beyond 1” a year. I live in Mississippi though and it’s definitely humid (and hot) here.

I wish I could dry stuff in my attic or crawlspace; but I have over 60,000 lbs of wood waiting to dry.

-- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss

showing 1 through 15 of 39 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase