Bandsaw re-saw guide

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Forum topic by Cory posted 04-17-2012 01:10 PM 1737 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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760 posts in 3414 days

04-17-2012 01:10 PM

I just bought my first band saw and I was re-sawing some material the other day with only the fence. My results weren’t that great due to poor technique and inexperience. I thought I’d try to build a re-saw guide and see if that helped. Here’s what I came up with:

Tape on the back to make it perfectly square to the table:

Any tips on getting better results when re-sawing?

Thanks for looking.


-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

6 replies so far

View sras's profile


4795 posts in 3124 days

#1 posted 04-17-2012 02:48 PM

Looks like a good jig. Make sure the guide is exactly parallel to the blade – you can use some paper shims between the guide and the fence to adjust it.

Go slow, let the blade do the work and advance the wood as it is needed.

Practice! Good Luck!

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View Cory's profile


760 posts in 3414 days

#2 posted 04-17-2012 03:30 PM

Thanks, Steve. I’ve got this little jig dialed in perfectly, so it’s exactly parallel to the blade and both are square to the table.

I had another person tell me that, although these pointed type guides are ok, the best thing to do is use a tall fence that absolutely will not move. I’m thinking of a separate fence from 3/4” plywood, which I will clamp to the table.

What about blades? I’ve got a 1/2” 4 TPI blade in there now, but I’ve also heard that a 1/4” blade is better.

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

View sb194's profile


196 posts in 3013 days

#3 posted 04-17-2012 04:29 PM

I would stay with the 1/2” blade, or even move up to a 3/4” blade. I’ve got the 3/4” woodslicer blade from Highland woodworking, and it works great. They also have a nice demonstration on resawing on their website as well.

Keep practicing and best of luck.

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3643 days

#4 posted 04-17-2012 06:01 PM

Cory, this jig looks good. as mentioned, highlandwoodworking has a guide with some pointers on their website in the woodslicer page that might help. other than that – what exactly are you having trouble with? what is the ‘poor results’ that you talk about ? different results call for different things – is it variable thickness? lopsided cuts? poor surface finish? drift? other?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Cory's profile


760 posts in 3414 days

#5 posted 04-17-2012 07:06 PM

Purp: Great questions, and thanks for asking. The first time I was re-sawing I had burning, rough surface, and a couple of wedges. they were different sizes in just about every dimension. I was definitely getting drift in my blade and I think I was going too fast. That’s the real reason I made this jig. Now (with a different blade, too) my surfaces are better and the thicknesses are much closer to each other as long as I take my time and don’t try to force it.

I resawed a 8/4 piece of zebra wood the other day for a box and had pretty good results. I still had quite a bit of clean up, though. The cuts were pretty rough. I’m too cheap and too lazy to have 5 different bandsaw blades, so I’m going to have to live with the results from the 2 that I’ve got!

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2656 posts in 2917 days

#6 posted 04-17-2012 11:05 PM

I have a resaw fence on my bandsaw and it works well as long as I use a “woodslicer” blade that is sharp.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

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