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Titebond I II or III?

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Forum topic by Adam D posted 731 days ago 3128 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Adam D

79 posts in 774 days


731 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: titebond glue

Last time I bought glue, I decided to go for the mid-grade titebond II. Is it really that much better than titebond I? Am I missing out on some great feature of titebond III? I haven’t had any joints come apart yet…anyone die-hard fans of one or the other? Is titebond original good enough?

-- Adam, Rochester NY


28 replies so far

View cabs4less's profile

cabs4less

235 posts in 1262 days


#1 posted 731 days ago

I use tite 3 in my cabinets not cause of the water issue cause a tight joint with finish applied is water resist anyway but i like it 15 min open time for door glue-ups but I use tite1 for everything else in my cabinets

-- As Best I Can

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2226 posts in 851 days


#2 posted 731 days ago

I generally use TB2 for most applications but when I want a waterproof bond or a longer set up time I go to TB3.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2304 posts in 1077 days


#3 posted 731 days ago

I used to use TBIII exclusively, mainly for the open time and lower working temp.
Since I do my glueups indoors now, and since open time hasn’t really been an issue, I use TBII now. It works great and costs less. I don’t bother with TBI because TBII is only pennies more and has the additional benefit of being water resistant.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Edziu's profile

Edziu

150 posts in 1551 days


#4 posted 731 days ago

Adam, Titebond is not sold like gas. The three types Titebond I (red label) is the original, fine for any interior work or furniture. Titebond II (blue label) is Weather resistant, meaning it can get wet, like a cutting board for example. Titebond III (green label) is Water-proof, meaning it could be used for an outdoor furniture piece or anything ‘Above the waterline.’ I recommend TB III because it’s the most versatile, allows you a longer open time, and is a tad on the more liquidy side (runny) which means it spreads easier.

View Loren's profile

Loren

6746 posts in 2148 days


#5 posted 731 days ago

I use white glue for interior work. Common yellow
glues creep more. The right glue depends on the work
you do. For heirloom quality work I would never use
yellow glue in glue joints. I maybe unfairly biased based
on past experience. There are 100s of glue formulations
on the market and perhaps a dozen available through
home centers. In reality the glues you can buy retail
are not what is used in manufacturing where quality control
from piece to piece matters.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 786 days


#6 posted 731 days ago

I like that Gorilla glue better. Ever try it?

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Adam D's profile

Adam D

79 posts in 774 days


#7 posted 730 days ago

crap—I used titebond 2 with some biscuits joining some pieces to make bigger stock…is it going to just disintegrate sitting outdoors this summer? I’m assuming the cedar will keep the moisture away from the glue for the most part. Maybe I’ll have to get a small bottle of TBIII before I start assembly.

Russel, I use Gorilla with my mortise-and-tenon joints just because mine are never perfect and I want to fill in the gaps. No problems so far.

-- Adam, Rochester NY

View GlennsGrandson's profile

GlennsGrandson

428 posts in 809 days


#8 posted 730 days ago

Really Loren you use white glue, like elmers glue, on interior stuff? I’m relatively new to all of this so I’m just curious as to what the reasoning is behind this instead of using wood glue. How does it hold up, how is the strength?

Not trying to criticize, genuinely interested, thanks!

-- Grant - S/N Dakota

View crank49's profile

crank49

3243 posts in 1471 days


#9 posted 730 days ago

Aren’t they all PVA; white or yellow.

I thought white, as in Elmers brand, was just basic PVA glue, the same basic glue as the yellow stuff with the difference being that the yellow formula was modified to be thicker and set up faster.

I normally use TB3 because I wanted the water proof feature and because it sets up a little slower, like the plain white stuff.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

14500 posts in 1688 days


#10 posted 730 days ago

I’m a big fan of III I use ot on cutting baords all the time. What a strong joint as well.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4445 posts in 1077 days


#11 posted 730 days ago

I was considering purchasing Titebond hyde glue. Any thoughts?

View DS's profile

DS

2078 posts in 920 days


#12 posted 730 days ago

Titebond Hide Glue, like all hide glues can be “reversed”. Meaning it can be unglued with a little heat and moisture. This is handy sometimes, like in making violins and such, as it makes repairs feasable.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View NathanAllen's profile

NathanAllen

376 posts in 1644 days


#13 posted 730 days ago

Love TBII Dark for Walnut and Cherry.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1500 posts in 1422 days


#14 posted 730 days ago

I make artsy crafty items. Small cedar boxes etc. and I use white glue. For outside stuff (Like signs) I use titebond III. I like the white glue because it set up quickly, dries clear, is plenty strong and is cheap.

-- In God We Trust

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7442 posts in 2552 days


#15 posted 730 days ago

TB III here…

That Hide stuff sounds interesting… haven’t used it yet…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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