Which hand planer to use

I’m a hand plane noob like you, but while researching the other day I found this page. Seems to have some good beginner info.

-- Rex

^I think I’d probably spend the time on that transitional (the wooden one); I think it has far more potential than the metal one. I hate to promote my own thread but the guys in “handplanes of your dreams” are very approachable and they’ve surpassed my knowledge a long time ago. Hit them up with any questions that you have but beware, this hand plane stuff is addictive:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

Your transitional (it looks like a Stanley #35) can certainly be made to be a fine smoother. It may take a little tuning and the transitional’s are a little harder to set. I can’t tell what the bench plane is, but it should be able to be tuned up to work well.

Look here for some links.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Don, the black planer is one I picked up at HF. It’s cheap but does the job. The other is a stanley as you said. I got it at an antique store for about 18 as I remember. I want to learn about these planers and when i see a good one at an antique shop I can get it. As far as tuning goes, I have no idea what that means or entails.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Welcome to the slippery slope. Once you get started its hard to stop.

Here is what I typically do to tune a plane. There are several blogs (I have a few) and many other with much more detail.

Make sure the iron is sharp.
Make sure the frog is seated solid.
Make sure the frog is flat so the blade sits flat on it.
Make sure the mouth is adjusted. (open for a jack plane with a camber. Tight for a smoother.) For a smoother you should just be able to slide a piece of paper through.
Polish the end of the chip breaker and make sure it fits tight against the blade.
For a smoother you want the chip breaker about 1/16” off the tip of the iron.
Make sure the sole is reasonably flat. (A smoother need to be flatter than a jack, which needs to be flatter than a scrub)
Wax or oil the sole.

My blog about restoring will help. , just skip over the repainting stuff, everything else should be relevant.

Look through some of the links I sent sent your way.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Russell, I probably have an extra bailey or two if you would like to test drive.

Shane, I’m working on a 16”x4”x7” walnut block and it’s cupped on one side. Hand planing is the only thing I can think of to smooth it out. I don’t have a planer or jointer.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Russell- the method I used for getting material (walnut, actually) into shape is here, hope it’s of some use…

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

Smitty, I had my eye on a Stanley #5 earlier today. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-905-14-Inch-Contractor-Smooth/dp/B00004UDKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334647869&sr=8-1

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

russell, I have a very nice Stanley #5 I just restored. I haven’t listed it for sale yet because I just finished it. Its probably one of the nicest one I’ve seen. It will be cheaper and better then the one you listed, I guarantee it. PM me if you’re interested. I have a few others as well.

For flattening you’ll want a jack sharpened with a camber. Look ate Plane #1 or #3 that I have listed in the link above. Either will work well. You would then want a smoother, something like the ones you have.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

^Don is the man when it comes to refurbing these tools, Russell. Highly recommended.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

Agree with Don but I would also add - Make sure the mouth where the blade comes through is not chipped or cracked Make sure the blade and chipper match Make sure there is a chipper

If you are buying an old plane – before you buy it, disassemble the blade and chipper down the the frog. and make sure there are no missing screws and they are tight.

I have seen many planes where there are screws missing in the frog, the blade doesn’t advance or retract (should have a lot of slop), the blade adjustment for angle – works.

If the person that is selling the plane has a problem with you inspecting the plane to this level – do not buy it. I do this in stores with new ones also. Remember, unless you are buying parts, this is a tool to be used – if it doesn’t work, its a waste of money.

-- David in Damascus, MD

Don, can you tell me what that piece on the planer that moves left and right is for?

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Shane. I’m started down the slippery slope here man. Are the planers you have for sale and how much. I’d be interested in any tool that will help me save time and turn out a better product.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Shane, here is what I’m doing with some walnut chunks I got from Jim the other day. He ran them through his jointer for me so I could have a couple good flat sides to work with. My table saw was used to cut them down from there then a bit of planing and sanding. They look really nice.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.