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Binding When Ripping Yellow Pine

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Forum topic by DrPuk2U posted 828 days ago 1176 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DrPuk2U

48 posts in 888 days


828 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: yellow pine ripping tablesaw binding

I bought a bunch of yellow pine to build a Holtzapffel bench. I stickered it and left it for two months. About 2/3 of the wood I can rip, but about a third of it closes up so fast I can’t finish the rip. I wrote about it in my shop blog here if you want more details and pictures.

But to be clear, the saw is a new SawStop 1.75 HP tablesaw with a Freud 24 tooth LMT72 rip blade. Everything is straight and aligned, the blade was up as high as it goes but it would bind badly. Moisture content of the wood is 7-8%. Some of the wood that ripped without problems is actually slightly wetter than the ones that do bind.

Is this just yellow pine being “bad”? I have read that it is a “reactive” wood. Any mitigation strategies? Other than time or new wood?

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"


6 replies so far

View mstenner's profile

mstenner

57 posts in 1750 days


#1 posted 828 days ago

Pull the blade back down for your safety. Use feather boards or blocks from the side and top to keep it in place… Then push like hell…. Until the end of the board is past the riving knife. Then you can wedge it.

Also,if the task permits, take thinner rips. I just dealt with the same issue ripping 11” boards in half.

Another option is to start, go until it binds, turn off the saw, pull the wood off, and start again (sawing through the same kerf). Realistically, you’re not gonna have a straight rip when it closes up anyway because the wood is bending. You can always joint or re-rip (depending on how bad it is) to clean up the edge.

I rally like SYP and feel it’s worth the hassle. Good luck.

-- -Michael

View ShipWreck's profile

ShipWreck

536 posts in 2348 days


#2 posted 828 days ago

Yellow pine can be a real PITA some times. Even when the boards are perfectly straight, you can still have binding. Although I think it is alot safer to have the blade all the way up, but I have found that lowering it will give the wood less surface area on the blade to promote binding. It is worth a try anyways.

View jmos's profile

jmos

681 posts in 965 days


#3 posted 828 days ago

It will happen sometimes; I had similar problems with the workbench build I just completed.

Like Micheal said, after you get past the riving knife drive in a small wedge to the kerf open. If you have a band saw, and can set up appropriate supports, you can rip on the band saw which will make this much easier and safer. I only really have problems when I’m trying to rip a board with a good bit of material on both sides of the blade. So, even if the band saw rip isn’t perfect, if you come back to the table saw to make a cleanup cut (say 1/4” or so) and it won’t bind anymore.

Another thought; I have a 1.75hp Jet and recently switched to thin kerf blades. The saw works much better, and I seem to have fewer issues with the blade binding, bogging down, and burning the wood.

Good luck!

-- John

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mstenner

57 posts in 1750 days


#4 posted 827 days ago

I wanted to clarify one thing. I don’t have a strong opinion about whether blade up or down is much safer in general. In this case, i was recommending “forcing” a board through the saw… I always feel a little uncomfortable when I’m putting a lot of force on it… afraid I’ll slip or the board will suddenly shift. in that case, i prefer to have the blade down just to minimize the chance of face-planting into it.

A blade guard and saw-stop would go a long way to ease those fears.

-- -Michael

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DrPuk2U

48 posts in 888 days


#5 posted 827 days ago

Thanks guys. This is good advice. Don’t have a bandsaw (yet) so I’ll probably just try resawing it and/or sticking a wedge in the kerf. I AM a little leery of the ram-it-through approach. Sounds less than perfectly safe.

What I think I’ll do is simply work on the top – there’s enough for the top, I’m pretty sure. When I get to the legs I’ll see what I need. If I have to jump through some hoops to to get the other pieces ripped, so be it. As long as they are safe hoops.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View oluf's profile

oluf

256 posts in 1635 days


#6 posted 827 days ago

Check the post on your blog on this subject.

-- Nils, So. Central MI. Wood is honest.Take the effort to understand what it has to tell you before you try to change it.

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