Walnut slab finishing questions.

None of those finishes are very durable .what are you planning on doing with it after it’s finished?

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Something like this.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

People seem to like the live edge bark on mine I used Polyurathia and it worked great for me but it take several coats for me it held everything together well inclueing the bark. What do you paln to use it for?

-- http://www.landwoodworks.com (L an D Woodworks)

Dennis, see the above comment and picture.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Take the bark off and sand the edges. I stop sanding at 150, but that is me. I spray a clear finish on my slabs , except for walnut. I use a walnut dye first. It adds very little color, but warms it up a bit. If you want the sap on the piece , skip the dye. Just spray 3 coats of a clear finish. If you want a water base finish, add a coat of clear seal a cell first and let dry. Then spray your water base over that. It will warm up the wood a bit. As Jim says above, depending what you want to do with it, that will tell you what type of top coat you want. bob

-- Bob www.bobkloes.com

Killerb- How do you usually go about removing the bark?

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

Note: The Cabot Tung Oil Finish is a true tung oil-phenolic resin wiping varnish. It is very durable and easy to apply, repair and refresh. It will produce stunning results with careful wood preparation and lot’s of wood-loving hand rubbing. I have used this and similar tung oil-phenolic resin products, i.e. Waterlox, on walnut slabs for years.

I would skip the Watco Danish Oil product, since it only adds complexity and won’t improve the finishing the process.

I always remove the bark from walnut slabs. I use sharp knives and hand-chisels. The final live edge is gently scraped with card scrapers. I generally don’t use sandpaper, but a little 108 or 220 on the live edge won’t hurt.

Blessings.

-- 温故知新

I use a chisel and a drawshave. Walnut bark is usually easy to remove. I am careful not to gouge up the edges too much. You want the natural edge preserved as best you can.

Hope the pictures help. bob

-- Bob www.bobkloes.com

Bob- Thanks, the pics do help. I may consider this piece a learning piece, unless I get lucky and don’t mess it up. I should have removed the bark before sanding it yesterday. I have 4 of these slabs so I can afford to mess this one up while learning. I think I’ll experiment on the edge of this one because I plan to cut some of it off anyway. It almost looks like you can knock it off with a mallet. This slab is one inch thick, I think some of the others are a little thicker. I’ll work on it today and get back to you provided the storms coming tonight leave my internet intact.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

If possible, pull off as much as you can. It should come off pretty easy. Its worth doing, believe me. Good luck with the slab. It looks very nice.
bob

-- Bob www.bobkloes.com

Killerb- I finished one side. I knocked off as much as I could with a rubber mallet then I used a couple pieces of pine 2×6 to knock more off. I used a planer and scraper to get as much as they would get. Then I used my B&D Mouse, (a highly under-rated tool) to sand the rest off using 50 grit, then went over it with 100 and 120 by hand.

-- Failure does not stop me, it makes me try harder..... because I'm crazy.

powder post beetles love to nest in the bark areas. It is always best to remove it. It is OK to leave it on redwood and certain cedars. The bugs don’t usually like them.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

Looks very nice.

-- Bob www.bobkloes.com