Vibration on band saw

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Forum topic by moll672 posted 04-12-2012 01:02 AM 2025 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 1677 days

04-12-2012 01:02 AM

Bought a new Ridgid 14” bandsaw last week for less than $400, taxes in and 12 months to pay, despite the bad reviews (and some good ones) about that model. Following advice found online I replaced the drive belt with a link belt that made a big difference in reducing vibration. Also added 1” of chipboard to top to firm it up and put a shelf, loaded with a bag of concrete mix, on the braces attached to the legs. Tried balancing top wheel with limited success. Can now stand a nickel on edge on table for 1 to 5 secs before it vibrates over.
Being the first bandsaw I have owned, what am I striving for with regards to an acceptable amount of vibration or is it simply what I am able to put up with? I realise that for $400 I can’t expect perfection but is what I have achieved as good as it gets? How much vibration is there from a more expensive bandsaw?
Tried cutting out a duck shape and even with the stock blade I was pleased with the result. Love the fact that pieces won’t come flying back at me if I make a mistake.
I’m only a hobby woodworker, getting more into it as I get closer to retirement, so can’t really justify putting big money into a bandsaw even though I believe in buying good tools.
Any comments, suggestions or advice on my situation would be appreciated.

-- moll672

11 replies so far

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 1911 days

#1 posted 04-12-2012 01:05 AM

I take it you have the original blade?

That would have been the first thing I got rid of.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2136 posts in 2533 days

#2 posted 04-12-2012 01:09 AM

I would recommend following this search. Ridgid bandsaw vibration has been a common problem. Many LJs have resolved this through many different methods.

-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile


1526 posts in 1930 days

#3 posted 04-12-2012 01:12 AM

I have my Orange Ridgid Band Saw running very nicely. I did all you did, but I did get a Timberwolf blade and bought some nice orange eurathane tires from Highland or Hartville tools (I don’t remember).

I also put some felt on the inside covers to dampen some vibration and also balanced the wheels a bit. I do love my saw now.

pics on my web link.

View Fuzzy's profile


297 posts in 3412 days

#4 posted 04-12-2012 01:31 AM

One method I’ve read about, but never actually gotten around to trying is to clamp a dial indicator to a post/bench/cabinet/whatever such that the plunger tip is at the height of, and pointing at the edge of your saw’s table.

Number the spokes of each wheel and start out by wrapping a few inches of solder around one of the spokes … see if the vibes are greater or less. Trying different amounts of solder at different locations, you are supposed to be able to balance out a LOT of the vibes on the saw.

As I said … never tried it, but this thread made me think about it … might give it a shot tomorrow & see what it does.

-- - dabbling in sarcasm is foolish … if you’re not proficient at it, you end up looking stupid … ... ...

View moll672's profile


4 posts in 1677 days

#5 posted 04-12-2012 01:37 AM

Thanks to all for the suggestions and to David for the link, all sorts of info I didn’t find previously. Will now try a little harder to balance the wheels as I think that is most likely the problem.

-- moll672

View RibsBrisket4me's profile


1526 posts in 1930 days

#6 posted 04-12-2012 01:41 AM

Don’t underestimate the eurathane wheels. For $25 it’s a huge upgrade.

I wish I knew about the idea Fuzzy had. I used adhesive wheel weights from HF. They are soft enough to cut in half, etc. I also did drill some shallow holes (not through) on the wheels to reduce weight in certain areas to get more balance.

View moll672's profile


4 posts in 1677 days

#7 posted 04-13-2012 12:15 AM

Tried the solder wire idea today and it made a noticable difference. Didnt seem to be in the place where spinning the wheel indicated but I’m not arguing with the results. Set the benchmark of a nickel standing on edge for longer than 10 seconds and have exceeded that. Good enough for the pieces of wood I go out with!! Thanks for the suggestion Fuzzy.

-- moll672

View geoscann's profile


258 posts in 1704 days

#8 posted 04-13-2012 12:27 AM

If your saw dont have wheel brushes install a set this will keep the saw dust from getting under the blade it helps a lot. also dressing the blade with a stone helps. their are some good videos on you tube and woodgears is great watch them.

-- BIG geo ---Occam,s razor The simplist answer is often correct

View bondogaposis's profile


3972 posts in 1775 days

#9 posted 04-13-2012 12:48 AM

Another thing you can do is make some feet for it out of hockey pucks.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Sylvain's profile


638 posts in 1923 days

#10 posted 04-13-2012 08:08 PM

Have a look at :

a dial indicator is not mandatory; a mirror glued with double sided tape, a ray of light and some (white) board to which the light will be reflected on

or something more intuitive :

the light ray method is also applicable with this second method.

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

View MrRon's profile


3898 posts in 2668 days

#11 posted 04-14-2012 12:13 AM

I improved my Ridgid bandsaw by replacing the guides, blade, belt and tires. The biggest improvement was to relocate the motor to a shelf under the saw. It required cutting a hole in the stand top to clear the belt, but it was worth it. Putting the motor weight down low helps. I also tweaked the wheel balance a bit, but they weren’t off by much.

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