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HVLP painting tips and product suggestions needed please.

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Forum topic by noone posted 04-08-2012 11:55 AM 13288 views 7 times favorited 71 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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noone

410 posts in 957 days


04-08-2012 11:55 AM

I’m getting ready to paint a couple of 36”h x 44”w cabinets I made. I figured I would practice on the insides first.

I would like to paint in the bedroom they will be installed in. Garage has cars in it and it seems like overspray would be a problem. Outside has trees everywhere. The bedroom is stripped down to concrete sub-floor, so I figures I could lay some plastic down on the floor and walls and go to it.

What kind of paint should I use with this in mind? I was thinking a latex enamel, maybe something from Sherwin. I’d like the finish to be as glass smooth and durable as possible. Someone suggested ML Campbell pre-catalyzed, but isn’t that a lacquer with strong fumes? I plan on wearing a respirator in any case.

Any technique tips?

Thanks.


71 replies so far

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

579 posts in 2226 days


#1 posted 04-08-2012 04:42 PM

The painters here that paint cabinets in homes use a semi gloss acrylic latex enamel Benjamin Moore paint.
They use a regular gravity feed gun with small compressors, not an hvlp gun. They thin the paint with water enough so they can get a smooth finish.

You probably need to practice on something other than the inside of the cabinets until you get it worked out like you want it.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1753 days


#2 posted 04-08-2012 05:31 PM

Where ever you do your painting, remove the cabinet backs if at all possible. Blowback can really mess up a good paint job.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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noone

410 posts in 957 days


#3 posted 04-08-2012 08:10 PM

I guess I was mistaken when I thought HVLP was used to paint cabinets…. ?

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1753 days


#4 posted 04-08-2012 09:21 PM

Not at all. HVLP is commonly used for cabinets – I use it all the time.

Note that “real” HVLP uses a turbine instead of an air compressor. Conversion HVLP guns use a compressor running at a reduced pressure. With conversion HVLP, you’ll need a decent size compressor tank – or spend time waiting for the tank to refill.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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bruc101

579 posts in 2226 days


#5 posted 04-08-2012 09:34 PM

noone you were not mistaken. I use hvlp and conventional spray systems in my shop. It all depends on what I’m spraying and what system I think will work best for the project.
The painters here tell me hvlp doesn’t work as well for them as the regular gravity feed systems work because of the paints they have to use.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

994 posts in 1375 days


#6 posted 04-08-2012 11:30 PM

If you can find General Finishes milk paint, slightly thinned, for your color then top coat with waterborne poly to get the sheen you want. Easily applied with HVLP using a 1.5 mm needle. Always use a scrap piece to test shoot before you spray your cabinet. Hold the gun about 6” from the cabinet.
I say this each time this comes up. Latex paint is not designed for cabinets or furniture.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

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noone

410 posts in 957 days


#7 posted 04-08-2012 11:35 PM

Any thoughts on using SW Pro Classic water based through an HVLP? Do I need to thin it with Floetrol? Water? Prime with SW Classic primer first? I’m trying to stay with SW products here because of the discounts I receive.

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bruc101

579 posts in 2226 days


#8 posted 04-08-2012 11:53 PM

I would be interested to know why Latex paint shouldn’t be used on cabinets especially acrylic latex semi gloss.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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noone

410 posts in 957 days


#9 posted 04-09-2012 12:01 AM

Yeah. I’m pretty confused. I don’t know what advice to take here. I read that SW Pro Classic WB had a great finish. Then people here are now saying don’t use that. The waterborne version says its an Acrylic Latex. Will this dry hard and leave a somewhat durable finish? I’m planning on using a HF HVLP turbine and would really like to get this right the first time. I will be spraying indoors, so would like to avoid an oil based product if possible. But I want a nice looking furniture grade finish…..

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bruc101

579 posts in 2226 days


#10 posted 04-09-2012 12:15 AM

Here’s a kitchen we did 5 years ago in a 1.7 million dollar home. The lady brought us a napkin from France that is this same color. Our paint company could not get a direct match and she turned it down. She took the napkin to a Benjamin Moore store and they matched it in acrylic latex semi gloss. I sprayed the cabinets with a Devilbiss HVLP system and then sprayed 3 costs of pre cat semi gloss lacquer on them. This was done 5 years ago and the photo was taken a few months ago when she called us back to do her bathrooms. Same color same paint.
We’ve done many sets of cabinets in acrylic latex semi gloss and never had a complaint.
When I hand carve or sandblast a wood sign (outdoor signs) I use Porter Paints acrylic latex semi gloss on them with no clear top coats and they hold up for years without having to repaint them.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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noone

410 posts in 957 days


#11 posted 04-09-2012 12:27 AM

I thought ‘pre-cat’ referred to oil based paints.

At any rate, it sounds like the SW Pro Classic WB I’m eyeing could be good. I just hope it works out in this bargain basement HF turbine HVLP.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112289 posts in 2262 days


#12 posted 04-09-2012 01:06 AM

I’ve been spraying finishes for 35 years and for the last 2 years I’ve been using a cheep $99 Earlex hvlp turbine and water base dye and water borne top coat clear on cabinets and other furniture . I’ve been using water borne top coats for about 10 years and It’s a very durable long lasting finish even a minwax product (a manufacturer I’m not found of for other products) polycrylics worked great. Having sprayed for a long time and having used much more expensive spray guns I was very surprised How well the inexpensive unit worked .

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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bruc101

579 posts in 2226 days


#13 posted 04-09-2012 01:35 AM

I agree with you. I’ve been spraying since I was 12 years old and I’m 65 now. I think I’ve used just about every paint, gun and spray system out there. The end results are your experience in paint and using your gun.
I’ve seen a 40 dollar gun spray as good or better than a $200 gun…it’s the user of the gun doing the control of the finishing and his understanding of how to spray the type finish he’s using with the type gun in his hand.
I’ve not only sprayed cabinets and furniture as a career, I’ve sprayed cars, trucks, boats, airplanes and sometimes spray special projects in a small aerospace plant.
I use a Devilbiss HVLP system with a 1 quart or 1 gallon pot and 16 foot hose from the pot to the gun. I use a Devilbiss conventional system either with a gun and the pots or a gravity feed cup gun.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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noone

410 posts in 957 days


#14 posted 04-09-2012 02:42 AM

What size tip do you use with your waterborne acrylic latex?

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a1Jim

112289 posts in 2262 days


#15 posted 04-09-2012 04:45 AM

1.5 will do the job for thin material like a standard lacquer and should work for most waterborne lacquers too.But some may need to be thinned a small amount up to 20%.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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