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PJ882 bed removal??

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Forum topic by Woodworker_at_Heart posted 04-08-2012 03:24 AM 797 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


04-08-2012 03:24 AM

Has anyone removed the beds on their 882 before? I know it may not be the best idea, but I need to remove them to move the machine into my shop. Its a basement shop and the passage into the basement is very narrow. Any experience with this?


30 replies so far

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#1 posted 01-01-2013 07:56 PM

Hi Woodworker at Heart,

I have this same problem. Just wondering if you were able to remove the infeed and outfeed tables. I would think that there should be an easy way to remove the tables.

Thanks.

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#2 posted 01-01-2013 11:46 PM

Hi there Reed,

I would be happy to help. I’m working on the post right now, hold on a minute.

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#3 posted 01-02-2013 12:16 AM

I ended up removing the infeed and outfeed tables from the PJ before I moved it down to my basement shop. I actually is not too challenging.
1. Take off the entire fence assembly. The fence assembly should slide back and off, you may have to remove one of the handles that lock it down. Then the base plate simply comes off by the bolts holding it to the tables. Just look on the back, below the fence base plate.
2. Take off the switch mount. You’ll have to disconnect the wire to the switch in order to completely take off the mount assembly. No need for detail here, just remove the bolts that are visible and its pretty self explanatory.
3. If you look just off the table tops, on the front and back, above the pivots for the parrellogram, there are set screws (allen screws). They are covered with black plastic caps, about the size of a pen cap. Take both of the set screws out. Once you take the set screws out you can punch out the rods holding the pivot points. The rods are in the middle of the hex nut used to adjust the top, they are 1 1/8” I believe. Use a large punch and mallet to push the rods out of the pivot points. This will allow the tables to lift out. I took out the rods closest to the cutterhead first. Be careful here, because the tables will pivot on the remaining rod. So support the table as much as possible as you remove the rods.
4. Lift the tables off and move as needed. BE CAREFUL! The tables are very heavy by themselves.

If you can move the base and table mounting base then I would advise this. I had to take the table base off of the actual base because I was the only one moving the jointer down the stairs, but if you have help then you may be able to leave it on.

If you need more help, I may be able to help via email. Just personal message me and I can send pics to help. Good Luck!

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#4 posted 01-02-2013 12:31 AM

Forgot one thing. You will need to punch the outer two rods (two with the handles on them) from the back side of the jointer. If you do not want to do this, you can remove the handle and cams from the rod and drive it out from the front (I did this because I was not thinking straight haha).

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#5 posted 01-02-2013 04:13 PM

Thanks much! I’ve had my jointer for a long time trying to figure out how to get into the basement.

If possible could you please send photos of the pins that you need to remove the get the tables off?

Why do I need to punch out the outer rods from the back per your second message? Is this in addition to what was in your original reply?

Thank you so much for the help. I really appreciate your help.

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#6 posted 01-02-2013 05:27 PM

Oh had one other question. When I remove the rods that hold the table will the table want to drop? I want to know ifi have to support the table from dropping onto the cutter head?

Thanks

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#7 posted 01-02-2013 06:33 PM

In order to remove the outer pivot rods (rods farthest from the cutterhead) you will need to push them out from the rear of the jointer. This is because the infeed and outfeed adjustment lever has a hub that covers the rod. The rod can be punched out from the front, however, you would need to remove the lever and attachment hub (the piece shown in the picture below).

To remove the hub and lever, there is an allen screw that is threaded into the pivot rod. The rod and removed hub can be seen in the image below.


The red arrow is pointing to the pivot rod.

Additionally, as I referenced above; there are set screws. Actually there is several of them! You can see many of them in the manual under the sections guiding you through the table adjustment. You will need to loosen all of them when punching out the shaft and removing the table. Below is an image of the outside set screws that lock the tables to the base.

THIS IS IMPORTANT! There are set screws contained in the actual parrellogram mechanism housed under the table. I do not have a picture of this right now, I can upload one tonight after I get off work. These set screws MUST be removed prior to punching the rods out. If you look under the table, directly above the base (not near the ends of the tables) you can see the mechanisms. They are raw cast iron. Again, if you have trouble finding these or locating the set screws, I can upload a picture tonight after work.

As to your final question, when I removed the table I punched the inner rods first while leaving the outer rod in place. This allowed me to tilt/pivot the table away from the cutterhead while I punched the outer rod through. I did this for safety, however, as you will find out, the tables fit very snugly into the base and due to friction they do not move very fast. Another alternative would be to tighten the table stops (seen in the third image above) as you push the rods out so that the table could not move regardless.

Here is an image of the rear of the jointer, with the red arrow point to the outer rod (housed inside the adjustment cam).

NOTE: If you end up wanting to remove the table adjustment hubs and pushing the rods through the front; DO NOT STRIKE the rod from the front with the threads exposed (as seen in the second and third image above). You should insert a screw into the rod to protect the rod when punching it through.

There is no real advantage to removing the rods from the front, only personal preference. Also, I will stress the tables are pretty heavy as I mentioned above, just be cautious and safe. The jointer is expensive and definitely something that you don’t want to break while removing the table. Let me know if you need the picture of the actual parrellogram fixture and set screws. Good luck!

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#8 posted 01-03-2013 02:11 AM

Hi,

Thanks for the detailed descriptions and pictures. It helps a lot. Yes, please send a picture of the parallelogram mechanism along with the set screws.

If I remove the first rod close the the cutter head will the table want to move or will the parallelogram mechanism support the weight of the table such that it will not lower on the cutter head?

Also, how do the other set screws hold the table in place? For example in your first picture your finger is pointing to the cap above the set screw. Just wondering how these hold the table in place.

Thanks again for all of your help.

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#9 posted 01-03-2013 02:16 AM

Oh, one other question. The set screws that need to be removed for the rods are housed under the caps on the top of the table correct? I don’t need to loosen any set screws under the table in order to remove the rods correct?

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#10 posted 01-03-2013 03:09 AM

Reed,
Here is the picture of the mechanism under the table. I inserted a red line to help visualize where the rod runs through it and comes out in front and back.

I realized after looking under the jointer that when I took off out the rods, the upper portion of the jointer was sitting on a card that allowed me to see directly under the mechanism. This, in turn, allowed access to the set screws located on the cast mechanism shown above. I think the set screws are located directly on the bottom of the mechanism, but I cannot be certain. An alternative would be to remove all the fixtures that connect the two components (base and upper) and then rotate the entire upper 90 degrees so you can see under the upper portion. Sorry to be vague here, but I could not take a picture of this, unless I physically did it to my jointer.

Sorry for the confusion in the pictures, I took them to visualize certain elements and then needed to use it for another purpose. My finger in the first picture was showing the set screws for the rods (for another purpose), the arrow was the only thing I was showing in this post. The cap and hole my finger is pointing to actually houses 2 set screws, one on top of the other. A set set screw sort of thing. Sorry for the confusion.

The cutterhead may try to fall if you remove the inner rod. However, you can either place something soft in the opening to buffer the table and the cutterhead, or you can do what I did and put downward pressure on the outer portion of the table (away from the cutterhead) when removing the rod so that the table pivots on the outer rod remaining.

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#11 posted 01-03-2013 03:26 AM

Thanks again for all of your help. I really appreciate it.

Let me see if I understand correctly. If I remove the screws that hold the 4 rods tha hold the tables to the base then the tables should lift out correct? I’m assuming that the rods connect to the bottom part of the parallelogram mechanism therefore when I remove the tables the parallelogram mechanism should lift out with the table correct?

I’m not sure how the upper rods in each parallelogram mechanism attach to the table.

Is this something you can explain some more please?

Again I am expecting to see thi mechanism lift out with the tables. Is this correct?

Thanks again for all of your help.

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#12 posted 01-03-2013 03:31 AM

If I remember correctly, the you will be removing are the UPPER parrellogram rods. Therefore, when you remove those rods the mechanism will remain attached to the lower portion. Again if I remember right, there are permanent lower rods that will hold the mechanism to the upper assembly.

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#13 posted 01-03-2013 04:00 AM

It looks like the rods that go through the hex bolts are attached to the lower part of the mechanism when looking under the table.

Also, do I need to loose any screws/bolts under the table before driving out the rods?

Thanks much for all of your help. I really appreciate it.

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Woodworker_at_Heart

28 posts in 1057 days


#14 posted 01-03-2013 04:11 AM

I can’t say for certain if the rod you are removing is the lower or upper mechanism connection. Either way, I do not remember it being a problem when removing the tables. I do think there are set screws that are set into the mechanism. They screw into threaded holes on the mechanism and hold the rod to the mechanism. I removed them by having access to the bottom portion of the mechanism. This was only achieved by having the entire upper portion on an open framed cart which gave me access to the bottom of the mechanism. removed all the connections from the upper and lower assemblies, borrowed a buddy, and lifted the upper onto the cart. The upper is VERY HEAVY! If you lift it and move it, have help. As I wrote a little earlier, I think you could remove the four connecting bolts, switch mount, drive belt, and fence; then rotate the entire upper assembly 90 degrees so the upper and lower sit permendicular to each other. This may allow access to the set screws within the mechanism. Short of that method or moving the upper to a support as mentioned above, I am not sure how else to get access to them. Hope this helps!

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Reed

17 posts in 1958 days


#15 posted 01-03-2013 04:31 AM

So there are 2 set screws that I need to remove from underneath for each mechanism?

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