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Did not care for the Boeshield, so what wax would you recommend.

3K views 21 replies 16 participants last post by  knotscott 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I don't know if I did it wrong or I got a bad batch but I think the Boesheld T-9 is junk. I pre cleaned all the surfaces then applied the T-9 and wiped it down and after the residual was dry it was really sticky on everything to the point where I removed it to get my pieces to be able to slide freely. Now keep in mind that according to directions you should be able to apply a coat and let it dry or spray on and wipe off like I did and I still found a fair amount of sticky residual that even left black marks on pieces at the jointer so I can't even imagine if I sprayed it on and then did not wipe it down. I live in a very arid state and would just as soon wax and buff my iron surfaces and would simply like to know which wax I should use.
 
#3 ·
http://woodworking.rockler.com/search?asug=&w=paste+wax&Search.x=0&Search.y=0&Search=Submit

Things like this minwax and black bison are suitable too? it seems as though people are using these and the Johnsons on wood but no mention for tools. Should I be using more of an automobile wax that is silicone free for the machinery and paste wax for some of my jigs and such or will the paste work well for all? I am also curious how the application for metal goes.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Wood Mag conductive a fairly scientific methodical test of several rust preventive measures….T-9 worked better than any of them for rust prevention.

I've found that a very light coat of T-9 works best. I like to add Johnson's paste wax on top of the T-9 as lubrication…..T-9 offers the benefit of being a rust inhibitor that wax alone doesn't offer.
 
#6 ·
Crazy timing. I just got my new T'S. I cleaned the table and wings with WD-40 then hit it with the boeshield. A day later I thought I must have done something wrong because it's so sticky. I'm at a total loss as to why since I've also heard great things about the T-9.
 
#7 ·
David - To be sure it's not interacting, clean off the WD-40 with mineral spirits or methanol and let it dry. Spray on the T-9 and wipe it off, then let it dry, and buff it…..you should find that it's not sticky any longer. Then apply the paste wax.
 
#8 ·
I had issues with the T-9, also…. I just use Johnson paste wax for furniture, and it works great. I use T-9 for parts that I don't want to rust that are under the table, etc, where it isn't practical to apply paste wax.
 
#9 ·
Topcote was recommended to me by my sales man so I bought some. It works quite well. The other day I was planing some old wood that seemed very wet still and with a good coat of this stuff it went from having to really push the wood through to sliding effortlessly. If I was a little more regular with spraying my tools I think it would work even better. -->Not cheap!!
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
I use Johnson's Floor Paste Wax and has protected my iron surfaces very well. I too live in a rather dry area of the western US and use the wax on my jointer, tablesaw, bands saws, planner, drill presses router table and most bench tops. With Johnson's Wax my sleds and jigs glide accross the tables and beds with finger tip ease; the wax also protects well. The cost is less than $4.00.
 
#17 ·
W-d 40 has silicone in it, I just use Johnsons Pastewax. I've tried Minwax paste but it was too hard. I have also heard this paint thinner stuff Penetrol works well to protect cast iron but I myself have not tried it yet. I would try it on something small first. Good luck.
 
#19 ·
Really surprised to see how many others have not liked T-9. In response to the light coat comments I would consider what I did to be a pretty light coat with an immediate wiping with a towel to even the surface and lighten the coat even further. No thanks as it has failed my criteria with being too picky and not keeping the surface thick at all. It looks like from the suggestions I will pick up some paste wax, perhaps carnuba or Johnsons. When I mentioned this at one of my stores when we were shooting the breeze (he sells T-9) he said he does not like the stuff either but instead uses a wax called Renaissance and swears by it up and down. I hope all of you are not getting the idea that this is a big deal to me because it is not, just a minor irritation and money not well spent but fortunately there are a lot of good choices out there and a even more good advice especially is you come here.
 
#20 ·
Tomj: a minor correction….

"While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents."
 
#21 ·
If you watch the Wood Whisperer's video on bandsaw setup he goes over his rust prevention steps on a cast iron tabletop. It involves using T-9 for protection and then a layer of paste wax for lubrication. I have used this method on my tablesaw with great results so far. T-9 is proven to be a great product for rust protection, but its claims of lubrication seem a bit overstated on its own without some sort of wax coat on top.
 
#22 ·
You're all free to do what you like with your tools, but I want to reiterate than wax does not generally contain any components that prevent rust formation. It does help prevent moisture from contacting the cast iron, which in turn reduces rust formation, but a rust preventer of some sort plus a wax lubrication offer superior protection to wax alone.
 
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