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Saw stop issue with material drift

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Forum topic by Dan posted 869 days ago 1315 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dan

89 posts in 1451 days


869 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: table saw

I recently got a SawStop PCS and I am having a problem. My fence is aligned correctly and I am following all of the standard safety procedures. I have feather boards and use a push stick. The beginning of the rip cut is perfect.

The problem occurs when the material starts to pass the riving knife or splitter. The material starts to drift away from the fence causing a concave cut on the edge of the work piece. Has anyone encountered this and if so how do I fix it? Thank you all in advance for your assistance.

-- Will work for wood...


18 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile (online now)

a1Jim

112009 posts in 2202 days


#1 posted 869 days ago

Have you checked your saw blade?

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View dakremer's profile

dakremer

2449 posts in 1716 days


#2 posted 869 days ago

my old craftsman table saw does that as well…..I’ve always wondered why! I’ll be watching – hopefully you (we) can get some answers!

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Loren's profile

Loren

7389 posts in 2273 days


#3 posted 869 days ago

The source is either misalignment of your saw or tension in
your wood stock. Your blade may be heeling. Your riving
knife may be off. The face of your fence may be curved.
Your reference edge may be bowed. Your fence may be
deflecting. Your assessment of fence parallelism may be
inaccurate.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Fuzzy's profile

Fuzzy

289 posts in 2613 days


#4 posted 869 days ago

Very good possibility the riving knife is misaligned, pulling the stock away from the fence … one possibility (that I don’t necessarily recommend) would be to make a few test cuts with the riving knife removed.

Another (less likely) possibility would be a warped/bent fence.

-- - dabbling in sarcasm is foolish … if you’re not proficient at it, you end up looking stupid … ... ...

View killerb's profile

killerb

150 posts in 1023 days


#5 posted 869 days ago

I would think if the riving knife was off, you couldn’t get the wood past it. I would check your stock. It sounds like tension wood.

-- Bob www.bobkloes.com

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Scot

344 posts in 2021 days


#6 posted 869 days ago

The riving knife is off.

-- If the old masters had power tools, they would have used them. So get off your damn High Horse.

View crashn's profile

crashn

518 posts in 1090 days


#7 posted 868 days ago

+2 on the riving knife not aligned

-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

480 posts in 1765 days


#8 posted 868 days ago

I have a PCS too. I had the same issue too when I started out.
I’m going to venture a guess that you have too much pressure on the feather board and that always causes the workpiece to want to drift away from the fence.

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1305 posts in 1434 days


#9 posted 868 days ago

Read Lorens post again, the answer is there.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15683 posts in 2843 days


#10 posted 868 days ago

It could be anything Loren mentioned. But a couple of test cute without the riving knife could quickly determine whether or not the the problem is there. That’s the first thing I would try.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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SCOTSMAN

5347 posts in 2210 days


#11 posted 868 days ago

Sounds like the riving knife to me too.Check with a series of cuts aligning the riving knife laterally each way.If it gets worse move it back more, til it cuts perfect.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View John Little's profile

John Little

8 posts in 868 days


#12 posted 868 days ago

Have a SawStop PCS too but have not had that problem. Do you get different results if you use the splitter/blade guard instead of the riving knife?

-- John Little, ToyMakers of East Lake

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1693 days


#13 posted 868 days ago

Where do you position the push stick? Loren’s suggestions can all cause this problem, but it’s also possible that you’re “steering” workpiece away from the fence because of where you’re positioning the push stick. Ideally, the push force should be directly in line with the blade. When it isn’t, you can introduce a bit of lateral force which wants to “steer” the workpiece. The further your force is “off-line” the more pronounced the lateral force.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View Sarit's profile

Sarit

480 posts in 1765 days


#14 posted 868 days ago

You have to approach this systematically. Test each theory until you find the culprit.

First raise your blade and move your fence to it so its just a paper’s thickness away from the sides of the teeth and lock down the fence. Is the gap the same all around? Is the riving knife touching the fence (it shouldn’t be). Repeat this on the other side of the blade.

If that’s not an issue, put a straight edge against the fence and look for gaps. If you see gaps, slide the straight edge back and forth and see if the gap moves w/ the straight edge (ie curved straight edge) or with the fence (ie curved fence).

Still not it? Then take a wide board (make sure its straight by sliding it against the fence as in the prev step) and without the riving knife, without the featherboard, try nibbling off one edge with a push block like this: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/313/313-pushblock.pdf
I try to position my push block closer to the blade than to the fence. That helps to counteract the resistance that the blade makes which will try to make the workpiece drift away from the fence.

Is it curved? If not, then try adding in the riving knife and repeat the last step.

Still not curved, try adding the featherboard.

View Dan's profile

Dan

89 posts in 1451 days


#15 posted 868 days ago

Thank you all for your response. I am guessing it is the splitter and will take a look tonight. I will get back to you with my findings.

-- Will work for wood...

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