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| Forum topic by SteveKorz | posted 530 days ago | 235 views | 0 times favorited | 7 replies | ![]() |
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530 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: finger joints tip glue up I’ve been messing around a lot lately with finger joints. I’ve been using a brush and Titebond glue, and it just seems like there must be a better way to do this, especially if you glue in a rabbeted bottom. I tape off the inside of the box to catch the glue squeeze out. This seems to take forever…. Does anyone have any tips or techniques that are better or faster than the way I’m doing them? Thanks in advance! —Steve -- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) † |
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530 days ago |
Not any faster, but if you use a slower setting glue (white glue, urea formaldehyde, etc…) you will have alot longer to clean up before the glue sets. Regards, JM -- Jarrod, Taos, NM http://jzmurphree.wordpress.com/ |
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530 days ago |
It seems like I saw somewhere that if just the leading edges, that go into the other piece, is applied with a small bead of glue, instead of smearing all over the place on both pieces, the glue is spread as it goes together, is held together very well, and reduces squeez-out substancially. I have not tried it… haven’t made any box joints since then… in my first box joints, the fit was so tight, I didn’t need glue… I just pounded them together. :) -- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500" |
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530 days ago |
Steve – apply your finish on the inside pieces first and that should help with cleanup. As for applying – I don’t like using a brush on small fingers – so I use a squeeze bottle applicator (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16414&filter=glue) that helps control the amount of glue you use. If the fingers are a good fit, you don’t need that much glue. -- You can't get a hug from Facebook. |
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530 days ago |
you could also use those small painting detail brushes that they have at crafts stores i have found that they work great for getting into small places and Woodcraft caries 1/4 acetone brushes while the ones that you buy in stores are mostly 3/8 – 1/2” and that would make a difference. |
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529 days ago |
I usually do the tape too, just putting it on during dry fits and that doesn’t take much time. As far as speeding up the gluing I clamp the opposing sides together and spread the glue 2 at a time, then pop the clamps off and assemble. I usually use TB II Extend for these just for a bit extra open time though. I normally use those small 1/2” brushes with the metal tube handles (think they’re called acid brushes?). I also cut some gluing cauls with shallow dado’ed notches to fit over the fingers so I can get clamp pressure right at the corners. -- Use the fence Luke |
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529 days ago |
All of these are good ideas, Thanks for all your input! I usually make them pretty tight, and for some reason I still feel like I have to coat EVERYTHING with glue. I’m always learning!... -- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) † |
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529 days ago |
Steve, like Betsy I pre-finish the inside, and then wax as well, making sure nothing gets on the mating areas of the joint. Then I use Gorilla glue, which has a very long open time, and will fill any small fitting problems in the joinery, as well as take a stain/finish well. You moisten one side of the joint and put a modest amount of glue on the mating side. I usually use acid brushes from Harbor Freight (probably a simple enough tool you could trust from them, IMHO). After the glue drys, it pops off the waxed inside easily, and since I usually make the pins a hair long, I just use a belt sander to grind everything flush on the outside. -- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade. |
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