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What size lazy susan?

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Forum topic by rut posted 03-30-2012 03:47 PM 9186 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rut

81 posts in 1849 days


03-30-2012 03:47 PM

I’ve decided to go with a 36” base corner cabinet and want to use a kidney shaped lazy Susan. I can’t seem to find good info on which size to use for this base cab. The rev-a-shelf documentation shows all of the size dimensions except where the cut-out is (front door area). Seems like that would be one of the important measurements to know.

Does anyone have any ideas on this?

Thanks,
Rut


6 replies so far

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2317 days


#1 posted 03-30-2012 04:22 PM

Hi Rut—

Here is a spec sheet for the Amerock product and I think it will answer your questions.

If you’ve never built a cabinet like this, here are a few considerations:

1. Draw up a plan view full size on cardboard. It will help you get a handle on this weirdness that has one front (ok, two), two sides and two (or three) backs.

When you do this, you’ll see how you can lop off the back corner because it’s wasted space. that new piece you add can be drilled for future adjustable shelves if you wish. I usually drill the sides of the cabinet as well. That back piece has 45 degree cuts on both edges and the 1/4 backs can be glued and stapled to it.

2. Don’t be too quick to add your top pieces to the cabinet…sometimes you need to get the trays in there first!

3. If you don’t lop off the back corner, you’ll need to leave the toe kick off to get the thing in a 3-0 door.

4. ALWAYS buy the hardware first.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2535 days


#2 posted 03-30-2012 04:32 PM

Since base cabs are usually 24” front to back, a 36” corner base would leave ~12”. The actual dimension will depend on whether you do face frames or framless.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View rut's profile

rut

81 posts in 1849 days


#3 posted 03-30-2012 04:33 PM

I’m using a 1” face frame. It appears from Lee’s link that I could use a 32” susan with a 10.75” door opening.

View DS's profile

DS

2151 posts in 1887 days


#4 posted 03-30-2012 04:45 PM

Keep in mind that most drywall corners have 1/4” to 1/2” of drywall mud in them making it near impossible to put a square cabinet tight into the corner.

Clipping the back corner 45 degrees is one option, but I usually hold the box about 3” out from both walls and use a 28” diameter tray.

I’ve also used a circle cutting jig on my bandsaw and made a 3/4 round box with a birds mouth cutout for the face frames. 1/8” Melamine bends around the top and bottom fairly easily. Some people like this style because things can’t fall off in the dark corners and get lost.

However you decide to do it, plan it out carefully. A 1:1 scale drawing is not a bad idea for the first one.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View rut's profile

rut

81 posts in 1849 days


#5 posted 03-30-2012 04:46 PM

Another question I have is the proper type of hinge to use for the split door to attach to the face frame?

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2535 days


#6 posted 03-30-2012 11:51 PM

Here’s one I did last December. On this job, I just gouged a bit out of the drywall corner to get my fit (the gouge will never see the light of day until someone rips out the cabs.)

Check www.rockler.com for hinges.

Get your lazy susan before you build the cab. Once you have it assembled (it’s pretty easy) you can use it to position the top and bottom pivots while the cab is on the bench. You can do it after the cab is installed, but it’s much more of a hassle.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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