LumberJocks

Dewalt 876 Bandsaw, it was all going so well..... can this be fixed?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by albachippie posted 847 days ago 3568 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View albachippie's profile

albachippie

532 posts in 1633 days


847 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: help table problem bandsaw

I bought a second hand, but still boxed and unused, DeWalt 876 bandsaw back in October. With work and general life busyness I’ve only now got round to setting it up. Set up was great, and surprisingly straight forward. I did the usual test cuts of random wavey lines with great new tool enthusiasm! All was good!

Then, I did a rip cut using the fence, through a 3”sq piece of pine. Again, all seemed great, untill I checked the fresh cut for square. Well, it wasn’t! Square I mean. The blade was sitting perfectly square to the table, and the fence also was square to the table. The problem is that the extruded alluminium table, when you put a straight edge along the surface, is far from flat, in any direction. The scale running along the front of the table doesn’t lie flush with the table either, which means the fence is following the variations in the table rather than sitting against the scale. The photos give an idea.

The new(ish) saw!

Straight(!) edge

The scale which should run flush to the table

The saw itself runs and cuts well. I really like it, and, at £250 still think it was well worth it. It’s just frustrating that there is this manufacturing fault with it. Can a new table be made? What would the drawbacks
and things to watch out for if I were to try one myself? Or should I try and shim the fixing points first to try and straighten the table? The fence leaves quite a lot to be desired also, so a retro fit will be on the cards eventually. But no point in having a great fence if the table is trash!

Once again, any advice appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

Garry

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl


17 replies so far

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1291 days


#1 posted 847 days ago

That’s a real drag. I’ve actually never seen this particular saw before. I think a simple table build is probably the way to go. You could probably salvage the rails and if you need a new fence, so be it. If the saw runs and cuts well, I think you’re doing pretty good. I had a DeWalt circular saw once with a twisted plate. I guess it happens:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Loren's profile

Loren

7231 posts in 2246 days


#2 posted 847 days ago

You can sand the table flat on a sanding board but that will
remove the coating from portions of the aluminum. You
would also work it to flatter using mallets, hammers, and
a sandbag for an anvil. A hard anvil would leave marks.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3342 posts in 2558 days


#3 posted 847 days ago

Try shims first. See if ya can pull it flat.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3268 posts in 1411 days


#4 posted 847 days ago

I have found that I usually use a bansaw for rough shaping curves, trimming bark off rough lumber etc. In these cases the tablesaw or router table will cut the finished edge for my project. So in some ways it may not matter.
The one notable exception is resawing thin veneer, which requires accurate cuts.
Best of luck.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Kenny 's profile

Kenny

260 posts in 1046 days


#5 posted 847 days ago

It’s not so bad buddy, there are ways to fix this! No reason to fret.

There are a few ways to go about this. The method I used on a scroll saw of mine and my buddies bandsaw is a very permanent method, though there are others that are more temporary.

The easiest solution is to add a new top over the existing top using a piece of phenolic coated plywood. Simply use machine screws in counter-sunk holes to bolt it right down. You can mill yourself a new miter slot in the ply if you choose as well. It’s best to shim under the ply where the table dips, this will keep the ply from sagging.
The only downfall, is you lose a bit of resaw capacity.

What I did for myself and my buddy, was to use Devcon’s Liquid Aluminum and Aluminum Putty and built the table back up to level. You could also use a product like USC’s All-Metal body filler. You will need to scuff your table well with 100-150 grit paper to assure good adhesion. Then build the lows up using the putty and skim-coat the entire table-top with the liquid.

Now, once the Devcon has dried, use a long, flat sanding block to level the surface so it’s dead flat.

Now, you will have a solid and dead-flat table top that isn’t going anywhere.

You could also fill the lows with Devcon and then add the phenolic coated ply over this. Or you could substitute a piece of aluminum plate 1/8” to 1/4” thick, obviously leaving the miter-slot exposed.

There are many ways to fix this. But I would advise against trying to pound the table flat in any way. Aluminum is brittle and may crack.

Good luck.

-- Kenny

View Kenny 's profile

Kenny

260 posts in 1046 days


#6 posted 847 days ago

Devcon liquid aluminum HERE

And aluminum putty HERE

Devcon is really tough stuff! Definitely a very permanent solution.

Nice saw, by the way! I really like it. Should be a keeper after you flatten that table!

-- Kenny

View Brit's profile

Brit

5107 posts in 1441 days


#7 posted 847 days ago

Garry – Before you do anthing else, contact Dewalt and tell them the problem. I bet they send you a new table FOC. I’ve got a Dewalt chop saw and one of the knobs wasn’t drilled straight. I phoned them up and they just sent me a new one FOC. I have a Dewalt router, which came with a 1/2” and 1/4” collet. They were interchangeable except for the fact that I couldn’t get the 1/2” collet out of the nut for love nor money. I phoned them up and the sent me another nut FOC to use with the 1/4” collet. I you don’t ask, you don’t get. It is in their interests to keep you sweet.

-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.

View albachippie's profile

albachippie

532 posts in 1633 days


#8 posted 846 days ago

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the abundance of advice!
Andy – I’ve gone with your advice first and contacted DeWalt direct. They don’t appear to do anything by phone anymore, so email it was. They emailed back and basically said to return it to the supplier. As I bought this machine second hand, allbeit unused and still boxed, there isn’t much I can do. I have emailed them back to say it is second hand etc etc so I don’t know the original supplier, nor do I have the proof of purchase. I don’t hold out much hope regarding this approach. When they email back with the rejection, I am going to reply and let them know how dissapointed I am with this. After all, the main power tool manufacturer I use is DeWalt. I like them!

Bertha – I think I will try and make a new overlay table, or maybe complete new one. I like the idea of the challenge!

Loren – I hadn’t thought of sanding. I guess I could recoat it with a metal laquer. Not sure about the panel beating approach! Don’t think I have the finnesse for that!

Bill – shims will be my first stop after DeWalt reply

Pinto – I intend to do bandsaw boxes eventually, so the table will require a flatter surface than now. You’re right though, it’s more the fact that I know it’s not right, and I want it to be right!

Kenny – wow! Ididn’t know such a thing existed! This stuff looks amazing. I’d love to give it a go. Thanks so much for your comprehensive reply, and links. Much appreciated.

Thanks again friends for your advice and encouragement. I’ll let you know the outcome,

Cheers,
Garry

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl

View albachippie's profile

albachippie

532 posts in 1633 days


#9 posted 837 days ago

Well, as I suspected, DeWalt aren’t interested in helping with a second owner machine. So, I think i may have to get myself sorted and make my first tool table!

Thanks again for all the advice guys,

Garry

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl

View wiswood2's profile

wiswood2

1088 posts in 2294 days


#10 posted 837 days ago

wont they sell you a new table. It seems like out the door and forget about. customers problem,
Chuck
Wisconsin-Wood-Chuck

-- Chuck, wiswood2 www.wisconsinwoodchuck.com

View Jonnhy_Switch's profile

Jonnhy_Switch

43 posts in 685 days


#11 posted 641 days ago

Hi there!

Personally, I had one DW876, and cant really recommend this band saw to anyone!

Lost hours and days trying to get it running ok, and one or two days later, it needed attention again!
Blades wont be durable 4long and the blade size cant be found on the market anywhere but from Dewalt.
Tension is a joke, fence aligment another joke.
Dont like blocks in a bandsaw, but that´s just me…However, the ones suplyed are ok to big sized blades, but not adjustable for the smaller ones,so any mistake here will send your blade to trash. replace them with bearings or hardwood so blades wont be damaged.

Took it apart 2 times, spent a lot of money buying parts, and it was the saw itself that its not that great!

Sold it and bought a makita LB1200F. It has 165mm max height vs 200mm on the DW,but has been a trustable compannion in work, and doesnt require such as much attention as the Dewalt.
No problems with this one! :)

Maybe my DW had factory deffects or so, i dont know! However, never seen Dewalt machines has great working horses….dont think their products are Top quality, just a bit over Black and decker, and twice the price.

View albachippie's profile

albachippie

532 posts in 1633 days


#12 posted 640 days ago

Goodness, I had forgotten about this post!

After spending quite a lot of time stripping down this saw and resetting, I got it running really sweet. I am able to resaw oak with relative ease. The fence needs reset after each blade change, but that is par for the course on any b/saw. The table remains warped, but I have made a veriety of overlays for different tasks, which work well. I have bought some blades from Tuff Saws, which are pretty good blades. I have not found any problems in sourcing blades. Most companies manufacture blades to order anyway, so any length is fine. I also changed the guide blocks for some hardwood ones. These work particularly well with narrow blades, and stop some of the squeal and heat problems. The tensioning is a bit hit and miss, but once you get a feel for the blade being used, and learn to completely ignore the tension scale!, all works well.

All in all, I think I got a bit of a bargain with this saw, and I am pretty pleased with it. That said, I am very glad I didn’t shell out for a brand new one. I would have been sorely dissapointed with it if I had.

As for DeWalt as a brand, I have many DeWalt tools, and have no complaints. They are not the best quality, but I do think, on the whole, they are very good value for money.

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1521 days


#13 posted 640 days ago

I’d take it to a machine shop and have it ran thru a surface grinder.

-- Life is good.

View Jonnhy_Switch's profile

Jonnhy_Switch

43 posts in 685 days


#14 posted 638 days ago

Sorry if offended you in any way, about the brand or the bandsaw itself, if so didnt intend to do it.
Just had a bad experience with this bandsaw and a lot of trouble with it.
Also bought it really cheap and in a stock clearence at local shop (230 euros)....but, I realized later why :(

I have other Dewalt tools too, and like them a lot, like a dw625 router that I just love and to this date, never found a better router then this one, to suit my needs!
Others I dont love them so much like a DW230mm grinder, and on this one, I gotta say that another one of mine, a Bosch, stays galaxys ahead of the DW.

I guess we cant stick to a brand only, gotta find the best choice in the category we´re buying.

In smaller bandsaws, like the 2 I´ve worked with (DW876 and the Makita lb1200f), my choice goes for the makita, not because the trouble of the DW I had, but is soo much smoother and accurate, better quality construction, nice features too, and yet so far, trouble free.Has lateral bearings to support the blade, wich is not very common on this smaller bandsaws, and the Led lights sure are great!! Also very easy to move arround the shop when needed.
But lets not forget DW876 has been on the market for so long, and the Makita is a much more recent machine.

Good Woodworking and all of the best!

View albachippie's profile

albachippie

532 posts in 1633 days


#15 posted 638 days ago

Trust me, I’m not that easily offended! Sorry if that’s what came across. I have no loyalties to any particular brand. Much like you say, I buy what suits my purpose and budget at any particular time. I’m glad the Makita is working out for you. I have their big router, forget the model at this moment. It’s a great machine and has served me very well for many years. Cheers for now, Garry.

-- Garry fae Bonnie Scotland - https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garry-Macdonald-Woodwork/425518554215355?ref=hl

showing 1 through 15 of 17 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase